28Eliminator

Ok everyone, I finally got all of my parts in and will do the install next week. I have a 1997 28 Eliminator with a 502MPI vst setup and stock manifolds. I am currently running a 24 bravo at 64MPH, 4700 RPM, and 3200ft elevation. I ordered an XR upper with a 2" IMCO shorty from Marc at BAM which hasn't come in yet, but that should cover the drive/power issue(I hope). The motor has about 200 hr and I probably should have freshened it up, but I'm already over budget with addition of the WPM steering and new prop. I love the steering.
Some questions about the Whipple,

1. Removing the thermostat. What effect does this have on the water pressure? Do I need to install a restrictor in place of the thermostat? Whipple say's it needs to be at least 16 at full throttle. The IMCO has the low water pickup.

2. The instructions say I should have 35 psi on the stock fuel rail at idle and maintain 38-41 cruising. My system is currently running at 30psi idle and 32 cruising. This is what the book say's it should be. I purchased a vortec adjustable regulator. Is this the fix?

3. Where is a good place to install the water dump? Pro's : Con's Port, starboard, or out the transom.

4. What prop will I need? A couple of friends have 28 Bravo's that I can borrow to try. Marc thinks I will need a 26 bravo. I am wondering if either will work with the 2" shorty. My prop shaft is about 5 1/2" below the bottom of the boat and the cavitation plate is about 1 1/2"above . I did talk to Jerry at Eliminator and he said that he was pretty sure it wouldn't be a problem, so I hope he is right. I know I can put in a spacer kit, but that is another $750 bucks or so.

We maybe going to the Shotout in LOTO so I have to be ready.
Any advise or ideas would be appreciated. I know there are alot of issues, and I don't want to miss something simple.


Thanks for your input. OSO is awesome!

Raypanic

If you are going to pull the engine I would reccomend better head gaskets. I hear a lot about people upgrading to whipples or other blowers only to blow the original gaskets. I cant say which ones or part numbers but when I had my engines built they did replace them with better ones. At 200 hours I would have the engine checked out for compression and valve trane integrity

I dont know about the thermostat but I believe I dont have one my water temp is at about 120 - 130. It may have a restrictor plate but I am not sure

I have the vortech regulator on my setup and all is well.

Water dump mine is out the back, but it would be nice to have it on the drivers side so you could verify water flow. No water flow = Bang.

Prop, start out with your 24 to make sure everything is OK then try the 28 if the RPM's are low drop down to a 26. Dont buy one untill you test a little. But I do have faith in Marc at BAM. You should be able to tell if you need a spacer with the 24P. If it ventilates too much.

Your drive should be fine but a drive shower would be better.

28Eliminator

Thanks for the good info Raypanic on the water dump. I never thought about being able to see the water coming out, great idea. I will put it on the drivers side.
Also I wasn't sure if the prop would cavitate using the 24p if it's to high. I will test it and see what happens.
Thanks cat. I happen to have a brand new Simrek drive shower in the box just waiting to be put on.

? I probably won't have the drive until about the 4th of July, Marc is waiting for prop shafts. Is it ok if I test with the stock Bravo?

It sounds like I should get some new head gaskets and put them on. Anyone know what type works good on this setup? I will do a search for head gaskets and see what I can find out. I'm sure this has been discussed before. If I pull the heads maybe I should just go ahead and freshen them up. Can also check out the valve trane at the same time.

I knew I could get some good answers from the OSO family! What a great place! THANKS

Cattitude

28E- If I remember right you've got a V- not a cat. The simrek shower should work OK on a v but may be borderline with an elevated pickup/cavitation plate.

I would run the intercooler dump just to to one side of the drive and plumb it to a shower like the one innovative marine makes. On my boat I just fabbed a 5/8 swept elbow to the top/center of my emi shower- it sends a nice sheet of water down the sides of the drive.

While it may be reassuring to be able to look over your shoulder and see the water dumping out the side it may be a better idea to look where you are going and occasionally glance down at water temp and pressure gages- these will verify that all is Ok. The factory merc bells and whistles will also chime in if there are temp problems. If the intercooler were to clog- and that's a big if- you would simply get hotter air, which, yes, would lead to detonation in an extreme situation and the knock sensor would pick it up and pull timing out- warning you without the bang. I suspect your little EGT light would be triggered as well as you approached this threshold- again verify with Dustin if you like.

I'm betting you'll pull the 28 ,especially if it's labbed. I went from a 22 (1.36 gr) to a merc labbed 28 which can kiss the rev limiter (5450 now with the Whipple) in favorable conditions. Most of the time I run my labbed 30 for slightly better cruise.

With regard to your fuel pressure- are you using a mechanical gage- if not I'd get one to verify pressure. Dustin can confirm, if you really do have lower pressure, the reg may be a short term fix for a tired pump.

Testing with your stock 200 hr Bravo is a risk- especially on a bigger v-hull like yours. right now it has some value. July 4 is what- 10 more days? If you must temp fate, do it with the 24 as this will tax the drive much less than the bigger wheels.

If you go to the trouble of changing head gaskets you want the felpro one with the built in o-rings. Spend the $100 or less for some ARP head bolts as well as the better gaskets are only 1/2 of the equation. I've got 70 hrs on my 454 mag efi with stock gaskets and bolts for what it's worth- umm, and my pulley seems to have shrunk a little since the original install. Good luck with the install, take your time, you will be rewarded with big smiles

28Eliminator

You are right Cat, it is a V. Does the simrek still work on the IMCO shorter drive, where is the cavitation plate? Thanks for the info about props. I hope you are right about the 28P.
As far as my fuel pressure now, it is where the manual say's it should be, just not as high as whipple say's it should be. I put on my test gauge this week end to verify and it is right on. So I don't think it is going bad, but I could change it to be sure.

Do you guy's run 2 fuel pressure gauges or what. The fuel pump with the whipple has a gauge attached to it. I installed a guage on the dash, but I'm not sure which one to hook it up to.

Ok, now about head gaskets. I still haven't decided what to do. What is the difference between the felpro marine and the felpro perma torque head gaskets. I have always used perma torque gaskets drag racing cars and have good luck. Do the marine ones block off some holes or something?

Thanks Guy's

Cattitude

28E -your shorty comes with a bolt on polished stainless cavitation plate which will be higher than your old one. Personally, I would be concerned about getting enough water to the higher cavitation plate at speeds. That's why I recommend the "free" reliable source of water from the intercooler dump.

As far as the fuel pressure goes, I've got a single mechanical gage reading the Whipple's auxilary pump. I don't recall the reasoning but it seems after talking with Dustin I was convinced the single gage, reading his pump was adequate.

I'm like you with the head gaskets- don't have all the answers but when I had a tube chassis mud drag car years ago we ran good bolts and felpro's o-ring gaskets with lots of nitrous- never a problem.

28Eliminator

I'll take a look at the transom and see if I can dump on the drive. The more water on the drive the better. I will go ahead and hook up the fuel pressure to the Aux pump, that's what I was planning, but just trying to get second opinions.

Anybody think of any thing else I may be missing please let me know. I will be Ripping into this thing this week.

Cattitude

If you're struggling to find space for the added gages you can consider the Nordskog digital speedo which will also serve as a voltmeter, tach and compass at the flip of a switch. Bury it into the cost of the project so you don't need to do another sell on the CFO down the road. Sounds like you've given this project a lot of thought. Good luck!

28Eliminator

A lot of thought and a lot of $$$$$$$$$$$$
I've been planning this all winter. Most of the time I was reading here on the board instead of replying, so much to read. I don't even know it all, but this is a great place to find the answers.

I actually have the room for the gauges, in fact, they are already installed and waiting to be hooked up in the engine compartment.

The CFO has already put a hold on the check book, that's why I bought the cheaper stuff first, because I knew it would become tight. Not to mention the $100 bucks for gas this weekend. HOLD on did I just use that word (cheaper) concerning the boat. I must be high or something.

Well, here goes. I'm not getting anything done sitting here on the computer. Time to start ripping the seat out and get to work.

Kokopelli

I have a very similar set up to what you are doing - 29 warlock with whippled 502. I had all the same issues and questions and would be more that happy to share my experiences/solutions with you. I'm not a gear head but managed to complete the install on my own (with Dustin's advice of course) in a weekend and a couple week nights to tie things up with great results. My number is 801 560-7989, feel free to call.

Shane