dyno

O.K I'm still all worked up over my Milky Oil........what would the oil be like if I cracked a head or the block?????I know I'm jumping the gun but I'm going up to the boat tonight and need all the advice I can get before I go.....would the thing still run good? It runs great.....I'm hoping its the intake gasket or maybe a riser
HELP!!!!!!Damn maybe I need a rubber room or a valium......

Budman

A cracked head or block would not necessarily prevent a motor from running well. As long as compression is maintained, you won't notice a loss of power. You could have a crack or blown head gasket that is simply allowing water into the oil passages. Nevertheless, I would not run the engine until you can diagnose the source of the leak and correct it. Water is not a good lubricant! If you spin a few bearings and trash the crank, things could get REAL expensive.

Good luck!

28SS

Heads will usaly crack in the valve seat area.

ursus

The blocks typically crack from the water jacket into the valley ( from poor winterization) and run fine until ther is to much water in the pan for lubrication and or limits revs or causes a hydraulic lock up because the crank is submerged from the extra gallon or 2 of fluid in the bottom end.

Agree with budman, I wouldn't run it as a diagnostic technique.

dyno

well when I check my oil its not over the full marks on the dip stick...its just milky on top I thought it was condensation at first water was real cold but last weekend the water warmed up and one of the motors cleaned right up nothing on the stick or the caps,but the other one has'nt.....now its blowing out the breathers....

syringa

Hey Dyno>> I have been fighting a milky oil problem for awhile now but mine's worse. Oil is overfull on a new 502 Gen VI. It's a long story and i'm sure all have heard the similiar woe's before so I won't get into it. Give us some info>> Engine type, operating temp, water pressure, langth of time for new oil to get milky etc. and maybe we can help. believe me i've been around the block(he he) on mine and still haven't found the problem

syringa

SYRINGA

BROWNIE

Don't forget about the demon "reversion". I work at Stainless Marine, and we hear every day about someone with too much cam and too short risers.

28SS

Dyno just a thoght here you say milky white on top of oil correct?
This seems weird . oil will float on water not water on oil. This may sound really simple butt...Have you checked to see how much oil is in pan? You could have too much oil and be aireating the oil causing foaming ? like I said just a thought?

dyno

ok they are new motors last year...330's on steroids..merlin heads rpm intake emi exhaust,msd you know....9-1 compression cam is... intake 234, exhaust 244, center line of 107 it runs at 165* water temp oil temp looks good too it took about 5-7 hrs running time for the moisture to start looking bad...dont know how much water pressure but the cooling system is all stock.

Budman

Dyno,

I'm no expert, but from what I have read on this board in the past it seems like 107* is a pretty short LSA for a marine cam. Most people are running 112* or more. Seems like you mentioned that you are running some type of aftermarket exhaust system, and since the other engine is not getting water in the oil, that might rule out reversion. However, are you sure that you don't have some type of exhaust restriction (i.e. silent choice) that coule be causing reversion on the one engine? Just tossing something out there.

Best of luck...