dyno

well I'm deep into the repairs on my milk making motor....I havent really found the source of the leak....I didnt use sealer on my intake bolts and think that was part of it but cant rule out any of the other possibilities. I pressure tested the block and intake with water to 45-50 lbs and it didnt leak is ther any way to be sure that the block is'nt cracked....damn! I dont want it back in and end up in the same situation...
Don

NObaja

check your exhaust risers/headers and then the oil cooler.

had the same problem this spring, it was my exhaust.

Cord

Retest the block, but this time use air. Air has a smaller molecule, so it will escape more easily. Because of this, you must be absolutly certain that your apparatus is not leaking. I'm not sure how the pros do it, but if the block will hold pressure over 24 hours, I'd call it sound. Mind you this is not with the compressors tank attached to it!

blue thunder

Is there any chance you've had the heads or block surfaced too many times and are not compensating for it properly at the intake mounting surface? Are you certain you did not have a blown head gasket? Just a couple thoughts to get the ball rollin...

BT

Airpacker

Sometimes it is better to pay the pros.I would recommend taking the block to a GOOD machine shop and have it tested.Take your heads as well.A little green now might save a huge headache later.

FloridianSon

Had the same thing but I only went to 35 lbs.no leaks.ran the thing still makeing milk in the valve covers and breather tubes bad.Started to build a large fire in to which I was to add some fibreglass,some steel and a outdrive. What I did do was to clean out the intake bolt holes with my gun cleaner kit and used blue blocker thread sealer(from Home Depot) on the six bolts that are open to the block and it took care of my GOT MILK.I also posted about the GM service bullitins that showed the new way they want the mechanic's to tighten down the intake.I have not tryed the new torque patern yet and to be honest I am a little afraid to try.Also don't know what intake gasket you are running but Dennis Moore's book said the 7400 vortec motor with some type of high tec. rubber (like and o ring) is the best .I am haveing trouble finding them so I might try the ones he said are next inline which come from GM #12506106(this # is for retc.port heads) which have steel core ,graphite and raised embossing around the ports.I also check my intake bolts every time I change the oil. Hope you get it sorted out.

KAAMA

Dyno/Don,
If the engine isn't under a load and up to operating temps then pressure testing may be fruitless/unreliable---cylinder wall fractures are NOT always that easily found. If you want to know for sure take your block to Performance Engineering or where Crazyhorse suggests and have it magnafluxed. I think Performance Engineering will do it for about $35---cheap insurance! As matter of fact---I WILL PAY FOR IT---just take it there! I hope it all works out for you. I will try and stop by today (Wed).

Mark/KAAMA

dyno

can the block be hecked after its assembled????itsgot everything in it already! heads on....the works!

Dave F

No. The block must be bear to have it mag'd

Dave F

I mean bare. We know it's already a bear