motor

No ,if you start it you need to run it long enough to burn off moisture which isn't likely to happen idling in the driveway

Rwbrew3

Thank you sir! I started and let it run once over the winter, now I won't bother going forward!

minxguy

For those of you who change the oil before seasonal layup, (and I am one of them), just make sure after you change the oil, you restart and run the engine for 20 minutes or so to get the new oil into the internal parts of the engine.

If you change the oil and do not start it, you have done nothing to protect the internal parts, they still have old,used oil in them.

Ken

07DominatorSS

No. Actually its not better to leave old oil in. Reason being, during the combustion process, acids can build up in the oil that can lead to issues inside the motor/s. You should ALWAYS change oil at the end of the season. No need to change it again in the Spring, but make sure you get it to operating temps when you do start it in the Spring.

Sorry about the repeat. Did not see Ted's repsonse.

PRIMECUT

Great post Ted

Rwbrew3

I appreciate all of the info!! ... Going forward I will change oil at the end of the season, make sure I let it run long enough to to introduce the new oil to the motor, won't bother starting it during the off season! Come spring, I'm good to go!

txtraveller2002

MAybe I'm getting mine done backwards... I run the motors up to operating temp on the hose, hook up an electric pump pulling from a 5 gallon bucket of RV antifreeze for each motor individually, restart, then run the bucket dry on each motor. THEN I change the oil because it's heated up and thinned out enough by then to drain it with my electric dipstick tube pump. After I'm done, and everything is closed back up, I'll pull the kill switch lanyard, and turn each motor over until it builds oil pressure on the gauge, and call it good. Do I need to reverse the process and bring the motors to temp, change oil, bring them back up to temp so the thermostats open, run the pink stuff through, then patiently wait for the spring?

minxguy

txtraveller2002, just cranking to the point of pressure will not "change out" the oil in the lifters, behind the rings, etc.

I change my oil the second way you describe.


Ken

SkiDoc

I thought a good deal of the engine oil additives are volatile and will be lost over the winter to the atmosphere. May be wrong about that...