Budman II

I am wrapping up the bottom end on my 489, and I am undecided on whether to install a 30 lb bypass in the oil filter pad on the block (Gen VI), or to block it off altogether as some have done. I have seen all the arguments for and against doing this, and for the most part I like the idea of making sure ALL of the oil hits the filter before it gets to the bearings. My one limiting factor is that I am using a thermostatic sandwich adapter that mounts the filter low on the block in the stock location, and clearance is kind of tight in this area. Not much room for a big filter here. I plan on running a Melling 10778C pump and 15W40 oil.

Anyone have an opinion on this?

Budman II

Hmmm, almost 100 views, and no one has an opinion on this?

No problem. I think I am going to go ahead and install a 30 lb bypass, since I am limited on filter size due to the location. Probably splitting hairs either way.

Young Performance

I have always blocked them off, and will continue to block them off. I don't want the risk of uncooled, unfiltered oil making it's way into the engine.
Eddie

Budman II

Thanks Eddie. Are you using a 20 mm freeze plug and staking it, or tapping it and using a pipe plug?

Young Performance

No, the 20mm was a little to loose. I'm using a 13/16 plug that I turn down the height in the lathe. I couldn't find one short enough, so I just make it shorter. I use to just tap it for 1/2" NPT. It worked great, but it's a pain and it eats up taps. Most pipe taps are not made for cast iron, especially cast iron with a high nickel content. The hole is the perfect size to tap, but you have to be sure to tap it all the way to the bottom so that the plug screws in far enough. If not, it will stick up a little past flush and could hold up the filter adapter from sealing.

I do stake them just a little bit. But, I coat the plug in Loctite before I bang it in. The 13/16" is a tight fit. Between the tight fit and the Loctite, it's not going anywhere. The stake is a little extra insurance.
Eddie

Budman II

You think the 20 mm might work with a liberal application of Loctite Red and staking it? I don't have access to a lathe myself and would have to hunt around for someone to turn a 13/16 plug down for me.

Thanks!

Young Performance

It wasn't that the 13/16" plug was to large, it was to deep. Your 20mm plug may be to deep as well. They are all offered in differing depths. I felt the 20 mm was to loose. Personally, I would be concerned running it. That's why I went to the 13/16". You don't have to turn it in a lathe if its to deep. You could always use a grinder, belt sander, etc.
Eddie

Budman II

Something like this?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0290&ppt=C0142

MER Performance

Tom, I do not know about using that style plug, have always threaded block way before assembly of engine and cleaning. You better go with Eddies, recommendation; if he has used both a expansion plug and pipe plug. If this thing is already together, I would be concerned with any small metal sliver, that could contaminate your oil galley.

Budman II

Thanks Mark - yes, I think tapping it is out of the question at this point. Not really too keen on pulling the whole shortblock apart again to tap the thing. I have seen plenty of others on here who have it blocked with a freeze plug. (I think I recall reading about someone who pulled apart a shortblock that had it blocked with a coin!) I think using some Loctite and staking it should keep it from going anywhere. Not much more than that holding the factory bypass in place. I might give Eddie a call later this morning to see if he might have a part number and a source for the plugs he is using. The biggest pain might be finding someone to turn it down shorter for me in a lathe. Still trying to picture how you would hold onto something so thin to run it up against a belt sander to sand down the depth, but I don't pretend to be a machinist!