Quick 383 build question
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I'm ordering my 383 rotating assemblies in the next few days. They will be all forged internal balanced with 7/16 bolts -12.8 c pistons BUT 5.7 rods or 6" and I beam or h beam rods? I've heard some things about clearance issues.
Thanks for your help in advance.
Thanks for your help in advance.
#2
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2330
Rod bolt / cam clearance may be an issue. Be aware of this in considering your connecting rod selection. You also have the option of using a small base circle cam if necessary.
Bob
Rod bolt / cam clearance may be an issue. Be aware of this in considering your connecting rod selection. You also have the option of using a small base circle cam if necessary.
Bob
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Thanks for the reply. I have the cams already they are not small base and are flat tappet, I will be looking for some roller cams but its not in the budget now. Wifes on me to get it back on the water. Interior,paint,system,gauges and controls came first. I can swap cams with the motors in the boat. Do the h beam rods need extra clearance in the oil pan area and I think that leaves me with 5.7 rods?
So where am I at with options?
So where am I at with options?
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I used 6.0 H-beam rods with a stroker crank assembly. Block had to be mildly clearanced around the oil pan rail and the stock Merc windage tray had to be machined slightly. I used a hyd roller cam and did not have to use a small base circle cam. Stock late model 1 pc rear main seal GM 4 bolt block. 6.0 rods increase dwell time at TDC and thus enhance torque while minimizing piston side loads with the increased stroke.
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I built a stroker for my Camaro abt 10 years ago.
Had to switch from factory I-beam to H-beam (Eagle stroker) rods to clear my non small base roller cam (Lingenfelter 74211).
I remember having to massage the oil pan a bit to clear but wasn't that big of deal.
Had to switch from factory I-beam to H-beam (Eagle stroker) rods to clear my non small base roller cam (Lingenfelter 74211).
I remember having to massage the oil pan a bit to clear but wasn't that big of deal.