Audiofn

WOW what a project!!!! Keep the pictures coming

Jon

HPJunkie

Maxx, so in essence the skeg is 2 inches longer? An Imco shaft is about $300 Do you think you can do it cheaper? How did you decide where to cut the drive at? Cool. Greg

Maxx

I will continue to post as we progress. Greg, we measured down the vertical shaft journal to 1/2" below the bottom race seat and made our cut there. I didn't want to get too low, because I need to be able to fit a tig torch inside to weld and seal that area. Also, the Bravo has an oil passage that leads from just below the lower race area to the lower Torrington bearing. I still need to perform one more machining process to keep that functional. As far as the shaft goes, the jury is still out. I am trying to have them produced at a reasonable price. Being a former drag racer, I could purchase a pair of aftermarket axles for around $300.00 and a Powerglide input shaft for around $200.00. I don't see where there is anything super special, compared to those items, about a Bravo vertical shaft that warrants the price these companies charge for them. If you or anyone would like to discuss it further; I can be reached via email: [email protected] or phone: 757-739-5196.

KAAMA

Very interesting project Maxx/John---keep the pictures coming and keep alearnin' about them drives son!

Maxx

Mark, will do! Audiofin, your project looks intense as well. I am very fond of Formulas and can't wait to see the finished product.

bajaboss

I know John personally and he really knows his stuff when it comes to these kind of projects. He helped me rebuild my bravo to withstand the 650PSHP blower motor I built and so far so good The next step is to run the new lower and hopefully make some good gains. I must say that this was a well thought out process and should work really well. I also have to agree with him that the vertical shaft should be ok when welded, (I have a background in metallurgy), but like he mentioned he also sent my vertical shaft off to a company to have it evaluated at a more competitive price. I must say it looks good so far.
DT

Maxx

Thanks for those nice comments Don. Now that my head swelling has gone down, I have received a lot of emails requesting a price to do this job. At the risk of sounding too much like an advertisment, and getting kicked off the board; I figured I can do the entire job for well under a $1000.00. That would include cutting the drive and the shaft, re-shimming, re-sealing with new propshaft seals and O rings, and re-setting the rolling torques. The drive would be returned ready to bolt on, just a little shorter. Options will include after-market shafts, new bearings /races, and nose cones. I don't want to get too specific out of respect for the OSO rules, but I would be glad to email the prices. I plan to include a pretty good garauntee on the vertical shaft, also.

B.R.S.

Maxx you project is very interesting. I believe the prices for most marine stuff is way too high just because it says marine. A few years ago I rebuilt a TRS gimbal the merc prices for the bearings and seals were very expensive. I noticed they all had Timkin and Chicago Rawhide numbers and could be bought from a good auto parts store for literally a fraction of the price. I think they all cost me around 15 bucks instead of around 100. E mail me more info on your shortening as I was planning on it this winter and would be intrested in your service.

Maxx

B.R.S. did you get my email I sent you? There has been a bit of a delay in welding the two pieces together. I sustained a flash burn this week, but I picked up some eye drops from my doctor so everything is feeling better. Hopefully, I can get to it this weekend. Man, with all the injuries I've had recently I feel like Tim Allen BTW, you may have noticed that I have not mentioned the "M" word; I am afraid that if I do I will have an irresistible urge to double prices.

HPJunkie

Maxx hows the project going? Hows the eyes? I've had eye burn myself and it feels like sand in the eyes. Hope you feel better. Greg