Sean

Okay...when they reassembled the motor, they could not get the Crane 99377 hydraulic lifters, so a set of "race" lifters were ordered from the local auto parts store....

The initial thought was just what you said, Jon, but the timing chain cover, pulley and balancer were removed and the timing marks were right on.

Sooo...were looking to get the correct Crane lifters and try that on for size...any thoughts?

Gary C

Sean,
Stupid question,did they have the race lifters in both engines? I hope you get it figured out soon. I want to see that boat in the water!

Sean

Gary,

Cranes in both motors and when they rebuilt the port 540, they couldn't get Cranes in time, so they opted for the "race" lifters from the auto parts store...I have a feeling these lifters are junk.

Sean

NW_Jim

Sean,
World products (Merlin) makes a Marine manifold for the tall decks. They make them for 4150 carbs or 4500 depending on what you have. I bought a couple and got rid of the stinking spacers. When I took them off, I noticed leaks all over the place. Could have led to my detonation. These manifolds have brass clad water jackets. (very cool). Good luck with the lifters.

DanL

Sean, your best, single means to chase this problem is the vacuum gauge. Have you stuck one on and read it? It will tell the tale. tight valves won't produce enough vacuum to pull fuel and atomize it. Try taking a turn out of them and and starting it. Last year,an ignition module did the same thing to me. The mark was all over the place. As for the timing being retarded, loosen the distrib and knock it a few counter clockwise. My 600 inch motor this weekend took 14 degrees initial before it started to idle better. Probably not your carb if you swapped them over. Dan

DanB

Sean
Crane hyd roller lifters require a different pushrod. If you used crane pushrods with X brand lifters Me thinks you may have created the problem. Seems to me the crane PR are about 1/8 or so longer...intake and ext.
DanL is right...put a vacum gauge on that puppy

Dan

Sean

Thanks DanL and DanB...I'm learning alot here! I appreciate all of the advice. There are many things here I just did not know.

DanL, we looked at the Team G manifild and there didn't appear to be any spot to install a vacuum guage other than drilling the manifold below the carb...should I be looking elsewhere? I ordered the Crane lifters and had them overnighted...hopefully they'll arrive tomorrow.

My quesiton is: Could those inferior lifters have damaged the pushrods? Will I have to replace them now too?

Here's another question: The guys at the shop tell me they don't look at the initial timing...only at about 3000 or so, they aim to get somewhere between 32 and 36 degrees. Does this make sense?

Jim, I am thinking about your suggestion...maybe this winter I will change them over...or just sell 'em an buy some NEW Mercury WARRANTEED motors :|

Your help is greatly appreciated

DanL

there should be a nipple on the carb, front metering block, right side, or stbd side, on a 45 degree angle with a rubber cap on it. Thats for the vac gauge. As for the pushrods, roll them on a flat surface and look at the ends. They're probably ok. The initial advance needs to be set and then the modules changed out to get the desired total. On the race boat, we lock out the advance and set the engines for 36 right at idle. Good luck.

Sean

Thanks Dan. I'll check the rods...Idunno if the 1050s have that nipple on 'em but I'll also check on that. Thanks again and good luck with your vibration problem...wish I could help you...but like i said, I'm still learning.

Vinny P

Maybe this is a stupid suggestion, but I am just trying to think of something that has not been said. Is there any chance those " RACE " lifters are solid lifters and not hydraulic????