ragtop409

Do you guy's think I should have a new gimble ring installed on my transom assembley or replace all 3 peices that make up the transom assembley? would like to here the pros and cons It is a 1995 Bravo 1 270 hour's. and the prices it should cost. Thanks Charlie

David

In my opinion, of course, it all depends on a few things, but not necessarily in the order listed.
1. The reason for replacing gimbal ring.
2. Fresh or salt water usage.
3. Condition of remaining parts.
4. Budget, but not limited to : are you doing the work, or having it done?
Cost will depend on options, of course.

ragtop409

Half and half salt water and fresh, The stering arm that ataches at the top is REALLY lose. You can move the out drive (at the prop 6+ inches) I am a good wrencher change and rebuild my own engines but have never tuche an out drive. I know I can take it apart but might have to pay to put it together

David

Well, engine removal is first, drive second. No disassembly of drive, so that's not an issue. Normally the upper swivel shaft gets loose in the gimbal ring from normal use and not having the U-bolt not tightened sufficiently. The square style steering arm doesn't usually go bad. The swivel shaft may be corroded or sealing surface going south. There may be other corrosion or other damage not visible till disassembly. Without doing much research, I believe the gimbal ring is about $700 from Merc, and the swivel shaft about $250-275. Plus seals, bellows, gimbal brg, labor (yours?), you just may be better off buying new assembly for around $2K (plus shipping) and installing it.

imongo

Something else you can do is replace the internal steering with external. I had the same play on my Cig (one drive up and the other down with and external tie bar does all the damage to the steering). The gimbals were tight, but the steering was loose. Problem solved with external. Don't do this if the gimbals are bad, you will only solve the steering but not the gimbals. The gimbals are bad or going if you can grab the drive and get ANY up and down or "rocking" movment in the gimbal. This should have NO play in it. If you have a twin, the steering will run around 3K for the parts. Call any of the mfgs. out there and get quotes. Latham, IMCO, Mayfair, etc.

Mongo

Scarab28

I just totally disassembled , inspected and reassembled mine in my garage. They're really pretty simple once you do it. Hardest part was getting the upper shaft out. You just need a slide hammer which will screw into the threaded upper shaft.

All my play was in the steering arm which connects to the upper shaft. Sure beats paying $2K.

ragtop409

What did it cost for the new uper shaft and searing arm? How many hours would you say you had into it? Thanks Charlie

Scarab28

If you go out to the BAM Marine site on the web, it shows the fiche and prices. I just bought a new bolt and nut for the steering arm and tightened it back on. I think the arm and upper swivel were around $275 each.

Once the motor is out and the gimbal off the boat, I had it disassembled in less than 2 hours. Two tools required - 1. the slide hammer, 2. the socket to get the side gimbal bolts loose. Everything else was pretty easy.

Good luck.

ragtop409

Hi, I found that the brass selflocking nuts on the U-bolt that go around the top pin were real lose and cracked. I replaced them with SS ones. That titened up things alot then I relizes the synthane washers bushings on the hinge pins were non exestant and there is at lest 1/8 inch on each side when the drive is centered. Question IS there any way to put these washer bushings in without completly removing the drive and disasambling the gimble ring?? Thanks Charlie

WES311SR1

I 've got the same side to side play in my drives. and adding ext. steering looks like the way to go. not only do you not have to remove the engines but you are adding to the resale value...