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Bravo XR vs. New IMCO SC

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Old 09-04-2002, 12:40 PM
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Default Bravo XR vs. New IMCO SC

Sorry to bring up another thread like this, but I did not find any legacy discussions that directly addresses the topic.
Application: 25 Daytona HP500EFI / Whipple.
Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-04-2002, 02:18 PM
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John,

One thing I know of is that a new IMCO SC utilizes the same gears as the Bravo One XR. IMCO uses there own gear case which is larger than the Bravo One to prevent case flex. The are some other internal bennefits as well to the IMCO SC, i.e, cooling, either stainless or billet aluminum top cap, bearings, etc. BUT I was told from Dave Hards at IMCO that the gears used in the IMCO SC are Merc's own.

I use Simrek "halo" drive showers and also have low water pick-ups on my drives and although I don't use them to cool my engines I allow the water to go through the drives via the lower water pick-ups and back out through some water dump fittings that spray the water right on top of the cap of the drives. The engines have their own transom mounted water pick-ups.

Also, I have the Bravo One XR's and have been told by a guy who rebuilds tons of Bravo One drives that one of the most important things you can do on a standard Bravo One or an XR is to keep the drive as COOL as you can. If they get too hot this cause case flex so keeping them cool is more important than most think. He also said that changing drive oil no less than every 20 hours is key as well. With the power that I am running on mine (naturally aspirated 685hp each) he said about every 10 hours! He has done a some temprature testing on the Merc Hi-Perf green outdrive gear lube and said that testing showed that it has excellent heat disipation properties in it, but that you must be timely on gear lube changes---something he says most take for granted.

I asked him if he had done any other testing in reference to any other gear lubes like Royal Purple, etc. and he said no. I asked him about Max Machine Worx, Teague, and IMCO's Bravo One XR upgrades i.e. billet top caps, torsional shafts, larger bearings and he told me not to waste my $$$.

When I took my boat for a lube change at thier shop it had about 25 hours on the lube. He commented about how it came out of the drive looking like new, but that it was probably because of all the cooling I provide for the drives. He said that when drives are poorly cooled that the Merc Hi-Perf green lube turns a darker green or black color. He smelled my drive lube and said it smelled normal, but not burnt---probably why it looked so good for lube with 25 hours on it, but he still suggested about every 10 hours on the drive lube for my app.

A buddy of mine thought he had might have hurt something in one of his Standard Bravo One drives. He took it to Dan and he completely disassembled the drive, inspected the parts, magnafluxed the gears. He couldn't find anything wrong with it and reassembled it and put new seals and bearings in it ALL for about $120 or so. He was honest and the pricing was awesome. He does do upgrades on the Standard Bravo One drives as well, but depending on the power, weight etc. he said in many cases that upgrades are not always needed. I asked him about upgrading my XR's but honestly felt he I didn't need it. Just good cooling and timely maintenance. I asked how much to disassembe my two XR drives, check them out, and reassemble with new seals/bearings he said $120 per drive and this dude has an excellent reputation! Even if you don't have him do anything he will give you an honest answer and his .02 on what to do. He does Bravo One drives by the tons and has all the correct tooling. He's in S.W. Michigan. Want his number?

269-792-8080 and ask for Dan
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Old 09-04-2002, 03:39 PM
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thanks for the tip. I also change my gear lube every 20hrs along with the engine oil. I will be in need for a new drive, as I do not have one now.
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