Any suggestions !!!
#12
Registered
Get yourself a decent remote starter or borrow one and head down to the ramp and duplicate it .snag a dwell meter and a digital timing light from your shop buddy (the one your gonna take cruising when its fixed ) and get er done . That is ,if you already ruled out fuel issuee prior
#14
Registered
rick,i just got to ask,is the boat named,SUPER FREAK?
#15
Banned
As you said you changed to a new coil correct ? what brand ? where did you buy it ? Did you replace or check ohms from your coil wire to ?
After the engine sits for x amount time - your engine will restart - spark is good ?
My feeling all along in order of 1 thru 4 what I posted from post # 13.
Ign module kit, first and in my next post I gave the part #'s
If someone could post the OEM ign. test procedures for the HP 500 carb engine from the service manual that would be great to help pinpoint the problem.
After the engine sits for x amount time - your engine will restart - spark is good ?
My feeling all along in order of 1 thru 4 what I posted from post # 13.
Ign module kit, first and in my next post I gave the part #'s
If someone could post the OEM ign. test procedures for the HP 500 carb engine from the service manual that would be great to help pinpoint the problem.
Last edited by BUP; 03-09-2015 at 11:19 PM.
#16
Banned
Hopefully we did not run you off. Any updates. Back in 99 as I recall Merc came out with a Service Bulletin plus class info about engine serial number runs for the 500 carb, 500 Bulldog, 525 SC and the 800SC that used the T-bolt V ignition set up and the module.
They stressed about the Ignition Module overheat conditions can take place in which will case module failure. They came up with the heat sink plate kit that fits against the module and to use the heat transfer compound to help control excessive heat. If I recall you should have all that installed, - if not you need it. Your engine serial # is very close to what all of this pertains to so I would double check it to make sure the heat sink plate was installed or not removed.
Also after due time the heat transfer compound dries and can harden in which can not do its job, Helping draw heat away from the module.
Next make sure your new ignition coil is mounted straight up and down (vertical), This ign. coil is liquid / oil filled. If it is or was mounted horizontal that creates an air bubble internally of the coil causing a very hot spot and a very hot spot in that void against the coil windings. Coil failure will or can happen that way and very possible in short order. Again mount this style of coil vertical - straight up and down regardless .
Make sure your cap and rotor is 100 % good along with the ign. sensor assembly. OK time for an update on your part. Thanks
They stressed about the Ignition Module overheat conditions can take place in which will case module failure. They came up with the heat sink plate kit that fits against the module and to use the heat transfer compound to help control excessive heat. If I recall you should have all that installed, - if not you need it. Your engine serial # is very close to what all of this pertains to so I would double check it to make sure the heat sink plate was installed or not removed.
Also after due time the heat transfer compound dries and can harden in which can not do its job, Helping draw heat away from the module.
Next make sure your new ignition coil is mounted straight up and down (vertical), This ign. coil is liquid / oil filled. If it is or was mounted horizontal that creates an air bubble internally of the coil causing a very hot spot and a very hot spot in that void against the coil windings. Coil failure will or can happen that way and very possible in short order. Again mount this style of coil vertical - straight up and down regardless .
Make sure your cap and rotor is 100 % good along with the ign. sensor assembly. OK time for an update on your part. Thanks
Last edited by BUP; 03-17-2015 at 09:08 PM.