chaoscube

The stealer called me back...

They passed 4 hours on the boat and they found nothing. They told me the ECM have no fault codes at all on their scan tool.
They by pass all switches, all solenoid, they by-pass from the motor to the dash and everything.
They said the engine stall after a few second because of a Ground Lost Somewhere.

They told me that the wire on the Starter was not well tighted and 1 cable on my Battery selector switch was also not well tighted. They said it may have ****ep up the ECM...do you think this is possible and this can be the ECM my problem ? They charge $2100 CAD +taxes here for this damn ECM...or they told me it could be the big main wiring harness that can have a problem but it will take hours to check all wires 1 by 1.


Please, let me know what you guys think... Thanks

BUP

Can you post the stickers that is on your ECM - I need to see what is printed on it. I do not want to say anything as of yet until I can READ IT. I might not even matter but I want to see and read it before anything else. Again you say you have a bravo app - is this a bravo 1 app correct and 4 sure you have the 383 not the 377 correct ?

Do not do anything to the boat until I see the all printed stickers on the ECM No BS - I am trying to help.

chaoscube

The boat is still all the dealer...I can take a picture of the ECM when I get the boat back.

They told me they will try to find a used boat close, with a 350mpi 555ECM and try it on my boat to see if it will start and if the engine will run more than a few seconds and not die.

The tag on the engine and the engine cover is 383, but the sticker on the motor says 377cid 6.2L MX...its a quicksilver repower 6.2L engine in 2006. serial number of the engine is 0M300000...here is the tag:

Gun Slinger

To me it sounds along the lines of a sticking IAC valve or loose TPS sensor that is out of adjustment, loose distributor something like that. I would check all your sensors out that control your spark and fuel, the littlest hair movement on a TPS sensor for example can cause something like this. Did you disconnect anything when you worked on it that you may have left off? I would do that before throwing parts at it. Maybe look into a program like scannerpro that gives you live feed of what your sensors are doing, but it has to be something along those lines.

BUP

This app is ECM 555 and scan pro I am 99 % sure is not set up for these but is for MEFI ECM's

I need your ECM stickers not the engine stickers. I already knew it was a repower from their reman sales division at Mercruiserbeing a NON production engine that was dropped in like I said in another post.

The ECM stickers are going to have its calibration codes numbered on the sticker itself that are mated per application.

BUP

In the meantime if the label matches what I ned to know.

Here is what I think YOU MENTIONED - fuel pressure testing - 3 psi at the boost pump - that's to low has this been fixed or doubled checked to verify its not the problem ?

After I check your ECM stickers and if that match is all correct, I will post what I think is your problem but I want to know about the fuel pressures and what are they when the engine dies also ?

BUP

here I just will post the info as to any possible fix for your app.

1. The shift in gear switch is bad or out of position -

2 next possibility - the HVS = high voltage switch - in which is the real name for the distributor on these apps. HVS is not phased / clocked correctly or properly. they will have to check the proper procedure on how to do it. That is very hard to write all out to fully understand it. If someone had this out and installed whenever this surely would be the problem. It has to be phased / clocked 100 % correctly along with the rotor. Seen it done wrong at least 100 times

3. The HVS (distributor) was turned however or its hold down bracket / bolt is loose in which allowed it to turn / move in either direction. They can use diacom to set it correctly by scanning the engine. Very common thing to happen Seen this at least another 100 times

4. Bad crank sensor and or any connections for it including wiring. been down that road especially throwing no codes and even no start conditions.

5.IF YOUR APP has a yellow flag breaker - they are junk and can cause running problems. . If your shop does not know what it is, you better find another shop.

6. IAC triple checked and possible another new one. been down that road

7. water pressure sensor - some can be bad right out of the box, been down that road.

8. the HVS cap itself - 5 & 7 bad crossfiring or the cap is bad. They use to be bad right out of the box. the auto side went thru this as well because for one year they all had bad batches made overseas. they are now fixed but anything older on the shelf I would not trust. Just saying. been down that road - the first one ate my lunch after installing a brand new out of the box - but never again

9. double check all grounds and battery voltage drops.

Good luck and I will look at your ECM stickers to see if anything that might be matched. I wrote you the story book.

chaoscube

The boost pump is a low pressure pump and the high pressure pump is with the cool fuel system the other side of the engine. The low pressure pump was 3psi and at the engine we had 43 psi. I can't find how much psi the low pressure pump should be. This 1st pump is just to pump the fuel from the tank to supply the other one.

I will try to go at the dealer Tomorrow and take a picture of the ECM

Captain YARRR

I'd love to know the percentage of times the ECM being blamed as bad for when they can't find out what's going on vs. actually being bad. I'm sure it's a small percentage.

As I said earlier Ive had similar symptoms before two separate times. One was the ground on the back of the engine being corroded. The scanner can't help with that because it looks like the key is turned off when the connection fades.

The second time was a bad distributor and the scanner can't help there. I've replaced both distributors on my 383s in the last few years with around 200 hours.

BUP

ECM's from going bad can be traced back to the end user as well. They hate vibration, they hate corrosion, moisture, they extremely hate voltage spikes. people who unplug their warning horns and keep running their boats with a faulty sensor especially a form of an IAC can knock out the ecm over time as well. Link below read post # 9 to form your opinion as to not what to do and possible why your ECM could in fact be the problem the child.


Also a proper AMP battery and cranking batteries only for engine running installed. No deep cycle batteries for cranking the engine and running,

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/d...ough-idle.html