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Nothing left to check? VP 5.7GSI wont start - good fuel pressure, good ecm, wiring

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Nothing left to check? VP 5.7GSI wont start - good fuel pressure, good ecm, wiring

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Old 05-12-2015, 06:58 PM
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have you put this engine on a scanner?
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Old 05-12-2015, 07:49 PM
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Back to wiring...when you turn the key and your speedo jumps indicates you have a short. I cant remember if the a shorted tach cuts off the fuel or the spark in a mefi...aka the speedo short might be shorting the tach as well...think ground and the crank position sensor i dont beleive that requires new timing..did you retime the engine if so did you use a shunt or timing tool???

Last edited by Pliant; 05-12-2015 at 07:51 PM.
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:05 PM
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Well, the long and painful saga comes to an end... For now.

I put the new injectors in, and noticed that the engine was kicking but not starting. Normally it would only do this once, but not continue to kick over. It would even start up for a few seconds randomly. So I then though to myself, maybe my timing marks on the distributor were off a bit, so I retarded the timing, and then got nothing. I advanced the timing, and boom, she started up. My timing light is currently loaned out until tomorrow, so I cant set it.

I adjusted it until it idled smoothly. It has a real nasty hesitation now right off idle, so I will first set the timing, then maybe change the TPS if it doesn't improve.

My timing was off by a fair amount, but there was a noticeable difference with the new injectors, so its possible my marina ruined them when checking them. Who knows.

Can I set the timing out of the water? I have to warm it up, put it in base timing mode, rev the engine to a specific RPM (I think 1100 but I will check), and then adjust to 12 BTC. When I did this last year I found my dash tach, and my older diagnostic tach were reading different numbers. I split the difference and set it. Should I invest in a new digital tach to get it perfect? And is the 12 degrees the optimum spec?

I figured its best to set the timing in the water with proper back pressure, but it would be much easier to set on land, since its running like crap right now. It almost stalls when you open the throttle, but revs once you get past idle.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S7YAZkHzb90&feature=youtu.be
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:12 PM
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SB, I have to PM you, but your inbox is full.
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:21 PM
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What does backpressure have to do with timing ?

Pretty easy to diagnose a TPS with just a regular multimeter, even though as suggested, a scan tool makes it even easier. Do'nt just check tps reading during sweeps but the reference (in) voltage.

Just fixed a Navigator 32 Valve with a 10th the inlet voltage. Came in for a broken transmission. LOL.
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by nunnink23
SB, I have to PM you, but your inbox is full.
Don't like bad box. Yuk. Will clear it in a few.
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by SB
What does backpressure have to do with timing ?

Pretty easy to diagnose a TPS with just a regular multimeter, even though as suggested, a scan tool makes it even easier. Do'nt just check tps reading during sweeps but the reference (in) voltage.

Just fixed a Navigator 32 Valve with a 10th the inlet voltage. Came in for a broken transmission. LOL.
I will look into how to check it.

I thought back pressure would change my RPM's at a specific throttle plate angle. Lets say on land I need 5% throttle plate opening to achieve 1100 RPM, and on water I need 7% throttle plate to achieve the same RPM. Would that matter for ignition timing, or is 1100 RPM 1100 RPM no matter what angle the TPS reads? Or am I over analyzing the situation?

Lastly, this is the first time I put water on the engine when cranking/running. As you know I took my fuel cell apart, and replaced all the o-rings. I need to take it apart ONE MORE time because I wasn't happy with how it went together. I changed o-ring sizes 3 times now and I almost have it perfect. I will post my sizes when done. My question is, what if water is getting into the fuel from the cool fuel cell? That could certainly cause the engine to hesitate, but would the effects be more profound? Would I notice it somehow in the fuel residue on the butterfly? Nonetheless I am taking it apart again for one more o-ring swap, but I just am curious to hear your opinion, since this could ruin my injectors overnight I presume.
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Old 05-12-2015, 09:19 PM
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When you put it into base timing mode, as long as you are at proper rpm, that's all that matters. Then set the prerequisite dist base timing.
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Old 05-12-2015, 09:45 PM
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Raisingcane asked you in post # 35 and no BS i was going to ask the same - Not to dog you but your post # 38 way back ago - you said that you used your timing lite and set it back with the marks. - I seen that post # 38 and thought you had that covered 100 %. just saying. Good for Raisingcane asking way back 65 posts ago.

glad you got it going.

Last edited by BUP; 05-12-2015 at 09:50 PM.
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Old 05-12-2015, 10:08 PM
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Lol I don't mind. I set the timing while cranking; so it was hard to get it right. I actually set it to zero because I was told it would still start. I still find it odd that it started with the new injectors, despite barely staying running. I wonder if the new ones flow too much fuel. Anyway we will find out when I get it in the water.

Do you guys think I would notice if water from the fuel cell was intruding into the fuel?
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