Go Back  Offshoreonly.com > Technical > General Q & A
Nothing left to check?  VP 5.7GSI wont start - good fuel pressure, good ecm, wiring >

Nothing left to check? VP 5.7GSI wont start - good fuel pressure, good ecm, wiring

Notices

Nothing left to check? VP 5.7GSI wont start - good fuel pressure, good ecm, wiring

Thread Tools
 
Old 05-14-2015, 06:18 PM
  #121  
Registered
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Beaverton Or
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

No for what ever reason they have decided to use that point in the rpm band to set the timing...it's merely a reference for the mefi software to advance or retard timing based of rpm and load..who know's all of the variable's they use. As to your timing marks use a white grease pencil and mark them.... the timing light will hit them when running.
Pliant is offline  
Old 05-14-2015, 06:22 PM
  #122  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

The problem is they are so worn down from age and rust, that you can barely make them out. I will scrape off the new paint and see if I can make them out a little better. One way or another I will get it right.
nunnink23 is offline  
Old 05-14-2015, 06:26 PM
  #123  
SB
Registered
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: On A Dirt Floor
Posts: 13,742
Received 3,329 Likes on 1,491 Posts
Default

Man, I had you pegged for an extremely detailed person. Elbow to ribs.

'0' is usually easiest to see on rusted timing tab. You can use a good advance gun and use the '0'.

White Out in balancer line is easy.
SB is offline  
Old 05-14-2015, 06:33 PM
  #124  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I know lol. I ground off all the old rust and painted over it. I could see the timing marks perfectly when it was out of the hull. Once I dropped it in that all changed. I can see the zero really good, so I set it to zero for now. At least I know it's on the scale. Maybe I'll buy a light with built in advance.
nunnink23 is offline  
Old 05-14-2015, 06:43 PM
  #125  
SB
Registered
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: On A Dirt Floor
Posts: 13,742
Received 3,329 Likes on 1,491 Posts
Default

Each peak and valley in the timing tab is worth 2 degrees each. Some tabs have a big valley first and makes it 4 degrees, the back to the smaller ones for 2 each like the following pic :

SB is offline  
Old 05-15-2015, 07:22 PM
  #126  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

So the saga continues gentlemen!

My impeller was spotless but I replaced it anyway.

After this, I went to start my engine to set the timing. She was an absolute bear to start, took 5 mins to coax it to life.

Once I got it running and warmed up, I used my Rinda tool to put it in base timing mode, and set the advance to 8 degrees below top dead. With a better flashlight I was able to see the marks clearly, and I used a white marker to mark it.

After setting timing I shut her down, removed my Rinda tool, and started it back up. No problems starting back up, just as it was before. However the engine just isn't running right. It runs beautifully if you slowly increase the throttle. No missing, very accurate throttle control. However, ANY rapid, or even somewhat rapid movement of the throttle will cause it to bog horrendously and almost stall, then pick back up on its own. This isnt me being too anal, it just doesn't run right. You could nearly stall the engine with an average throttle increase.

Again, if you slowly increase the throttle it runs beautiful.

So, I haven't taken my fuel pressure gauge off, which has read 32 psi consultantly when running. I decided I should change back to my factory MAP sensor, and coolant temp sensor. The engine ran exactly the same on the new and old sensors.

then I decided I woud put my old injectors back in, now that I have the timing set right. The engine simply won't run on the old injectors. You have to coax it to start for 5 mins and then it won't stay running even with throttle. Honestly I don't know why they are bad, maybe my Marina ruined them, but they definitely are. So I put the new injectors back in, and she started right up again, but with the same hesitation on throttle input.

I have no vaccum leaks, and I am certain my timing is spot on, unless I am supposed to put it in base timing mode at the distributor. Somebody told me this once, but the manual says to use a Rinda tool at the DLC connector to put it in base timing mode

Honesty, it really sounds like a bad TPs right? What are the odds I would have so many issues at once.

I think I'm going to buy a new TPS, and IAT sensor tomorrow, since they are the only ones I haven't replaced. It can't be the IAC right? It idles super smooth.

My only question is, I have no volvo Penta part number to cross reference my TPS to. If I search for a TPS from a 1993 or so GM big block truck engine, will that give me the same TPS? The volvo parts catalog doesn't show a part number for the TPS anymore, which is frustrating. Any advice on how to find a TPS locally? I should try to find Delphi right? Not Carquest or something like that?

Last edited by nunnink23; 05-15-2015 at 07:30 PM.
nunnink23 is offline  
Old 05-15-2015, 07:58 PM
  #127  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Looks like the TPS part number is 3855184 according to Rock Auto. I will use that to cross reference.

Delphi then? Or if I can't find that, what is my next best option? I really feel like the TPS is bad.
nunnink23 is offline  
Old 05-15-2015, 07:58 PM
  #128  
Registered
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Beaverton Or
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # TH42 $14 at rockauto

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?ck[year_1995]=true&ck[mkt_US]=true&ck[mkt_EU]=false&ck[mkt_CA]=false&ck[mkt_MX]=false&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[ID]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[PHP_SESSION_ID]=0k6q3pe5glmjda71jumknhn973

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...nid=112&jpid=0

Last edited by Pliant; 05-15-2015 at 08:01 PM.
Pliant is offline  
Old 05-15-2015, 08:01 PM
  #129  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

^ we had the same idea in mind.
nunnink23 is offline  
Old 05-15-2015, 08:19 PM
  #130  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I think I have the Delco EST ignition right? I saw a post that you set initial timing by using timing shunt tool on the back of the distributor. the post indicated that the service manuals are wrong.... Any thoughts here? I thought you just throw it in base timing mode with the Rinda tool.


http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...edure?t=271407
nunnink23 is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.