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Nothing left to check? VP 5.7GSI wont start - good fuel pressure, good ecm, wiring

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Nothing left to check? VP 5.7GSI wont start - good fuel pressure, good ecm, wiring

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Old 05-16-2015, 02:49 PM
  #151  
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Are you talking about engine / manifold vacuum here above. Idle should be 16 to 21 and the more throttle given - engine vac / manifold vac decreases should not be increasing. Sorry if I am not talking about what you are you posting. I have not read much more of the posts since a couple of days ago

Do you have any intake vacuum leaks and or throttle body intake leaks ? Possible in the vid kind of sounds that way but I can be wrong because the vid not that clear sounding. just saying

the injector spray pattern not the greatest either. Just saying

Last edited by BUP; 05-16-2015 at 03:12 PM.
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Old 05-16-2015, 02:58 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by BUP
The IAT sensor per Volvo MEFI IV conversion was added . It has to be connected and wired adapted correctly. MEFI 3 and those STOCK MEFI 3 apps did not have a IAT sensor. Again the conversion of MEFI 4 required per VOLVO installation instructions added the IAT sensor. FYI
Thanks for the info. At least that makes sense now. It is wired correctly. I checked the wires back to the connectors. they have good cotinuity.
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Old 05-16-2015, 02:59 PM
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BUP, yes that is manifold vaccum.
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Old 05-16-2015, 03:14 PM
  #154  
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So the more throttle / rpms given you are saying the more engine vacuum increases. That's not how it suppose to work. Are sure you have this gauge hooked up correctly for engine / manifold vacuum testing and or the correct tester for checking manifold vacuum. Just asking Have to run good luck with it.

Last edited by BUP; 05-16-2015 at 03:18 PM.
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Old 05-16-2015, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by BUP
So the more throttle / rpms given you are saying the more engine vacuum increases. That's not how it suppose to work. Are sure you have this gauge hooked up correctly for engine / manifold vacuum testing and or the correct tester for checking manifold vacuum. Just asking Have to run good luck with it.
I'm confused. I attached the vaccum gauge to the pulse line on the manifold where the fuel pump vapor line would have gone. You said vaccum is supposed to decrease when the engine is throttled up? The manual said it should increase with higher rpms.
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Old 05-16-2015, 05:21 PM
  #156  
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Are you running water through this yet ? I know many app's will run like schit without the coolant temp sensor being submerged in the coolant/water.

Speaking of which, if the coolant temp sensor self grounds, make damn sure whatever it is in, has a gound path. Tstat housings are notorious for not providing prope ground....if that is what it is mounted in.

Last edited by SB; 05-16-2015 at 05:23 PM.
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Old 05-16-2015, 05:39 PM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by nunnink23
Update 3:

Vaccum at idle (450-500 rpm) 17-18 psi steady.

Vaccum at 1000 rpm 19.5 - 20 psi

Vaccum at 2000 rpm 22 psi.

No jumping around more than .5 psi or with engine rpm.

Now what?

Video attached so you can see how it runs once its warmed up. Takes 2 mins to start it cold.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnfLykg7Yyc&feature=youtu.be

Ok you have something really messed on the tbi, i cant tell what has happened but those injector's are sticking open badly see those droplet's. Do yourself a favor and put a bright neon light on them....it will allow you to see just how bad the spray pattern is. How are they seated something has to be badly misaligned.
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Old 05-16-2015, 05:50 PM
  #158  
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SU107 crosses to:
NAPA/Echlin TS5100
Delphi TS1007

Here's the pic of the Delphi:

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Old 05-16-2015, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Pliant
Ok you have something really messed on the tbi, i cant tell what has happened but those injector's are sticking open badly see those droplet's. Do yourself a favor and put a bright neon light on them....it will allow you to see just how bad the spray pattern is. How are they seated something has to be badly misaligned.
I's possible, but if they are spraying tha much fuel - say winter cold start, or bad coolant temp sensor, at idle with the plates mosly closed, fuel bounces back up and collects on the bottom of injector pod.

Wanna know how many units I thought the lower oring was leaking because of droplets like that, but something was causing them to spay way more fuel than normal.

As noted above, I see good running ones do this when very cold out and fuel enichment demanded by ECU is massive.

I too, am going by the what I see in the vid - may actually look diff in person ?

I use a timing light poined right at the spray. It provides good light and since inj are timed with ignition, it provides a good strobe effect. Slows down what you see to make it more accurate to our vision.
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Old 05-16-2015, 06:03 PM
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Anyway, did we make sure timing is correct ? All this without proper timing means schit.

Then, if still runs like cap, a scan of what sensors are reading will help.
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