nunnink23

BUP - more later from me when I'm back from my boat, right now I'm furiously trying to get the front of the engine off and my leaky porthole out so I can have the porthole fixed by my father, and hopefully have enough time to fix the timing cover tomorrow. I'm going to try to flex the oil pan down a bit to allow the timing cover to line up. If it doesn't then whatever, I only lost a day. Pulling the motor will cost me 3-4 days since i don't have much time other than the afternoons.

But in reference to your notes on my ecm. I don't have anyone willing to swap. In fact nobody has a merc or volvo 5.7 or 5.0 with a MEFI iii that I know, other than one guy and he's not willing.

I will tell you my ECM has surely seen all of the things you described. I know I've probably disconnected it with battery power on, I know it gets dropped on all the time from my stupid two piece engine cover... Probably why the last one failed. But I also know that OBD diagnositcs tested it and they said it was good. I am back in touch with them again because I just have a bad feeling about it. Maybe the hardware is working, but what if the software is corrupted somehow from a voltage spike? Who knows! He seemed to think that wasn't the case, and said it has to be something else... But we checked everything lol!!! It seems simple to me... All ecm inputs are good... But outputs are bad.... = bad ecm. But I'm not a pro, and he is.

Pliant

Nun your ecm is a simple basic eprom with software if you had corrupeted software it would not run just like a comp if you had a bad eprom it would not run...or it would be the first eprom ive ever heard of that runs half way...and by the way the software isnt going to make up stuff along the way either. As soon as both injectors are up and going (correct one's) i think you will find it run well hot but not at all cold...as to a Volvo tune i highly doubt that i dont believe Volvo ever ran a tbi with mefi 4 Bup maybe in the know there on the surface it seems crazy for Volvo to custom tune one engine but this whole thread is crazy. Like a IAT in a tbi system by the way it function is to trim fuel based on temp and when you engine is cold its not doing anything right ...so let's see what two good injectors and a warm engine does

http://mefituning.com/

Those guys do conversion's perhaps they have some insight as to going from a 3 to 4 on tbi

nunnink23

I have the right ones in now. I went home, tapped on the "bad" one, put them in, and bam. It's spraying. Doesnt even kick. Only the tj11's will start the engine. And it takes 2 mins at best.

I always go back to, it ran great last year, so what has changed?

Sb - can I send you the old ones for flow testing at 30 Psi? Or do u know a local place that can do that? I need to be 100000% sure they are flowing the right amount. IF so, idk what else to do

Pliant

Is there some way to can nurse that thing up to 140 degree's with the right injectors and see how it does when its warmed up.

nunnink23

I sort of did that yesterday. But yes. Yesterday I ran it on the tj11's till 155.. Then killed it, put the one working 301 he sent me in, And one of my originals. It wouldn't stay running. If I was lucky I could rev it for a few seconds before it starved for fuel. And it was a ***** to restart. Eventually it just wouldnt restart. I really don't think the factory ones were bad. Today I couldn't even get it to start on the two 301's from motor man that are now working.

buck35

okay remaining outside the box have you tried a new and/or different battery, just to eliminate a voltage issue while cranking? voltage reg while running?high, low normal.
Previous mentioned drag test , not even sure what that is, but seemed to come from reputable source.

nunnink23

No I didnt, but I did use a voltmeter to check for voltage drop. These suckers are strong batteries. Really strong. Two oversized AGM's and I keep the onboard charger maintaining them at all times. They don't even miss a beat. You can crank this sucker all day, even without that charger, while running all the ships systems, in subzero temps and I bet these things wouldn't miss a beat.

I am positive those are good.

nunnink23

Okay so I have one last idea / lead. When I put the engine back in, I noticed one connector, which branches into two, had no home. I couldn't find any place to plug it in, and it didn't have any power to it, plus it was only one pin. I am posting a picture of it below.

Basically, it's a 10 pin connector that comes off the ecm conversion harness. That 10 pin connector has power to one wire with the ignition on, I proved it with a test light. However that pin which has power (and I am pointing at in the picture), does NOT connect to anything. A male 10 pin connector plugs into the female one, and that male connector only has ONE PIN in it. That one pin has no power to it, and i don't believe it's a ground path, because it doesn't light up a test light if I prove it to ground.

That one pin branches off into four black wires (like all the wires on the conversion harness) and it ends with two 2 pin connectors, one male, one female, and they both are the fuel pump style connectors.

I can't find a home for them anywhere. I don't know what they do, or where they went last year. I assumed they were unused and the volvo dealer doing the conversion just found some random male connector to plug up the open connector on the conversion harness to keep it from corroding. Idk.

BUP - if this is the key to the mystery, and your volvo literature explains what this is supposed to do, I will owe everyone a beer.

Pliant

You need to do some research on the differences between 3&4. One big differences is the 4 uses the Iat to sense and deliver fuel at cold start and that is where none of your readings make sense....aka ground straps.

nunnink23

Maybe I should just ground those damn things and see what happens lol.