activator40

Double check the high pressure fuel specs.I'm pretty sure its more than Merc and from what I remember it should be in the 40s

nunnink23

I will double check later, but I remember seeing 29+/- 3 psi. I'll check though.

BUP

No need to double check - Your exact and 1000 % correct fuel pressure are listed in POST # 33. read them I promise these are correct OEM Volvo Penta specs.

nunnink23

Okay so I'm good on that front then. I hope tomorrow proves useful. I will report at the end of the day with a final recap of everything I've tested. If I don't solve it tomorrow, I'm going to wait for new injectors to come in. I still have to install a new spotlight, fix the slightly sagging headliner in the cabin, and detail the entire boat. That will be Sunday's project.

nunnink23

Well I'm out of ideas guys. I think I'm at the point of giving up.

To give you an idea my luck lately, the stupid ignition module I bought was bad out of the box. I put it in with the new coil, and boom, no spark. Put my old ignition module in, I have spark again.

I installed the new coolant temp sensor, map sensor, and tried starting it. No difference.

I poured fuel down the intake again, and it fired right up, made a lot of noise sucking air, then died. This thing will be the death of me.

Is there anything else I can check aside from waiting on new injectors this week? No codes in the ECM. Any codes that have appeared in the past are from me disconnecting sensors and trying to start it.

Is there ANYTHING that could possibly be wrong with the tbi injector unit itself, and not the injectors? My diaphragm is holding the 30psi that the pump provides, so I really don't think that is the problem.

Pliant

Well do something simple take a vid of the injectors while starting....the fuel should pool a bit on the butterfly...go back to iboat's i posted a crude way to measure injector voltage. I believe 9 volts is the threshold for proper performance.

SB

Go fix that stuff. Get off the engine. You are burnt out. Injectors will be at your place Tues or Wed.

nunnink23

I took a video today, so you read my mind. I'll post it later tonight.

Just another thought, when I did the Noid light test, I was surprised with how dim the bulbs looked. It certainly pulsed, but it just seemed like it wasn't a bright flash. Of course as I said, I've checked for battery voltage at the injectors, and checked for cotinuity in the injector ground wires all the way back to the ECM. Both of which checked out fine.

I sure hope that the injectors spray more with a new set. It's now 100% obvious that they aren't spraying enough. I watched a few videos of TBI's spraying while running, and even while running the fuel pools up on the throttle plate. It takes a couple seconds for fuel to pool up on mine, but that's with it not running. You'll see in the video hopefully.

Pliant

Engine cranks but will not start. There is an assumption that the battery is at a full state of charge, the fuel tank has fuel in it and that all sensors are correctly connected and there are no trouble codes in the ECM. 1. Does the injector spray fuel when cranking the engine? Yes – Go to step 2. No - Remove one of the injector connectors from an injector. With a voltmeter or test light measure the voltage or validate power to the pink wire of the connector with the key on. Yes – Pink wire has voltage, go to step 1a. No – There is no power getting to the system. Check for proper connection to the battery, fuses are good, relays have been connected and seated properly. Correct the power issue; if there is still no fuel spray when cranking the engine after this has been corrected go to step 1a. 1a. With the voltmeter or test light still connected crank the engine and verify voltage to the pink wire on the injector connector. Results: “0” volts or the light goes out when cranking the engine. The primary (pink) ignition wire is incorrectly connected to the vehicle. This is to be an ignition 1 (ING1) source which is power in both the key run and crank position. Correct the connection of this wire and verify voltage to the pink wire on the injector connector. Test again for fuel spray during crank. If the engine still cranks, is spraying fuel, but will not start go to step 2. “Low volts, < 8” This is an indication of either a battery in a state of very low charge, a bad battery or too much resistance in the system. -record the battery voltage while cranking at the battery. -record the voltage at the pink wire of the injector connector while cranking the engine. -compare these two voltages, they should be within .2 (2/10) volts of each other. If these voltages are greater than .2 there is a bad connection or too much resistance in the wire feeding the ECM. -Correct the issue with low voltage. If cranking voltage is above 9 volts while cranking and there is still no fuel spraying the issue is in the fuel delivery system. “9 volts or higher” this is normal cranking voltage. If there is no fuel spraying while cranking the issue is in the fuel delivery system or ignition system Trouble shoot the fuel system for improper operation (See Fuel System checks at the beginning of this guide).

http://boatinfo.no/lib/volvo/manuals/ef_wiring.html#/12




Shame less cut and paste but it will get a voltage reading on your injector power

BUP

Will add since reading some of this that your injectors have been tested by how many and I guess by yourself - so the big question is

Did any one apply 12 V battery voltage directly to the injector terminals whether installed in the throttle body or out on a bench ? if so the internal solenoid may have been damage. Possible your problem.

Another reason why I asked in a past post, how did your marina know that your injectors were working and flowed fuel or fluid. If they applied a direct 12 V battery supply to the injectors - you possible can say that is your problem or if anyone else did.