WETTE VETTE

Turbojack, that is a good use for that tee. You could also put it before the sea water pump or before the strainer and run the 1/2" line to a 5 psi check valve that dumps overboard and that will all but eliminate pressure spikes. The best part about getting rid fo spikes in this manner is that they are gone before they get to the pump and the motor never really "sees" the spike. I have a few extra fittings laying aroung and could part with them for $40.00 plus shipping. If anyone is interested send me a PM.

Nordicflame

Hey WetteVette (and others),
I would be interested in one of your Ts but need to know what the small hose barb size is.
I’m thinking of using it for my ProCharger intercooler and I believe, without looking, that the barbs on the intercooler are ½”.
You seem to be up on all of this water pressure stuff so if you don’t mind, I have a question. (open for all!!)
I will check my water pressure when I’m up and running but I think I’m going to be OK with the intercooler plumbed in to the system along with a bypass.
My question is about the bypass.
Unlike most PC setups, I will be running a 120 thermostat because of my FAST ECM. I don’t have to, but I want to be able to utilize all the good things in the ECM such as cold enrichment and such. Our springtime water here is very cold!!
I’m going to run a 120’ thermostat and probably just drill one or two small 1/8 hole(s) in it for air pockets, etc… I will use your T or one like it right after the pump to go directly to the intercooler. I will then use the original intercooler fitting on the PC crossover for a bypass. Question is, can I run the bypass hose to another T and then to the fittings in the top of my CMIs that aren’t being used? I would think this would direct any cold water away from the thermostat and still feed the exhaust when the thermostat is closed. When the thermostat opens at 120’ the water should exit through the larger hoses from the thermostat housing to the main exhaust inlets.
Does this sound reasonable and has anyone setup any system like this?
Thanks
Dave

Hey Mike, 360 hours on that motor?
Thought these GenVI blocks couldn't take the punishment
I've got 130 now and it just seems to get stronger

MIKEHTMSR24

At 125 hrs I put 100 more hp in the motor. Also new rings, valves, springs, & bearings.

My buddy's (OSO-LAKEJUNKE) PC:
Built 502. Removed fuel inj. & now carb.
Seapump, oil cooler, P.S. cooler, 1st tee 1.25 x 1.25 x .5?, 1.25 goes to 2nd tee & .5 goes to intercooler, 2nd tee 1.25 x 1.25 x.75?, 1.25 goes to motor & .75 goes to 3rd tee, 3rd tee .75 x 3, the 3rd tee feeds both headers.

He is running a stat w/ holes w/ no problems.

B4 this system he was running PC stock set-up & no water pressure problems @ 5000 rppm. Then his 3 yr old impeller died. When he replaced impeller his pressure went from 17 to 25+ (25 was at 4000) He had some engine problems & did this summer & didn't get the chance to see what 5000 would have read. I don't know if he has had a chance to see what new sys. does at 5000+ r's.

WETTE VETTE

NordicHeat, the tee shown in the picture has a 1/2" NPT half coupling on it and the fitting in it is 1/2"NPT thread to 3/4" hose barb. You can pun any fitting you want into the 1/2 NPT thread. As for your bypass are you talking about the water after it goes through the intercooler? Dumping into the headers would work and it will save you from having to drill holes in your transom for dumps. Does the water in the intercooler need to be pressureized? If so you can put a check valve or pressure relief at the outlet of the intercooler which will maintain a constant pressure. With a pressurized cooler there will be no water flow through the cooler until the motor water pressure exceeds the check or relief valve setting. Cool ideas!!

offshor

My trip 540/500 bulldogs were running with the gauges pegged at 35 psi after I changed my raw water pick up pumps. Merc says that new pumps can increase water flow by as much as 10 to 30 %. Merc just came out with pressure releif valves. I installed them and now pressure is 15 to max 25 psi. Valves are $114. each direct from merc. People told me that with water pressure at 35 psi and over....it's just a matter of time before you go through a gasket.

MIKEHTMSR24

Can you post a pic of the Merc Valves?

KAAMA

Last year I had to remove the thermostats (160*) from my engines because it caused too much water pressure. Try about 125lbs @ idle (in neutral) and if you bumped the throttles up to 1500rpm (in neutral) the pressure guage would show 135lbs! The engines were only running about 140* water temps WITHOUT the thermostats and 5-7lbs of water pressure constant---even at WOT. Because I have aluminum heads, I want to build a little more heat into them by being able to run the 160* thermostats. I have a water pressure relief valve (1/2") on each engine and it's not enough---still too high of water pressures. I have a ball valve on the raw water intake hose for each engine that are located just before the sea strainers. Perhaps if I close them a little bit and adjust them to the lower pressures I need it might help.

I also would like to see the new Merc water pressure relief valves.

Craig/Wette Vette, I may have to have you take a look at my set up---lots of plumbing! But then I think you eat up that kind of stuff!

WETTE VETTE

I'll set you up with one of the valves I have been using for a good deal. 3/4" ports and I have a few left. Talk to ya later!

Tantrum

TTT

Dave1972

Ok...a stupid question....does drilling holes in the thermostat correct ANY of the high water pressure? My builder has told me that I am above 35 and I am getting milky oil. First question....do I need to have him change a gasket or will it be ok once I lower the pressure?

I'm thinking that the water dump into the exhaust would be an option.....what would I need to do this correctly?

Thanks!

Dave