Cylinder #5 sucked water due to crap header. What next?
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#32
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I have the exact same engine from Eagle Engine Sales and got screwed by them....I know this is a change of subject but wanted to give you the heads up----The engine comes with, from GM, 11 psi oil relief valves, installed beneath the oil filter remote part.......GM has warnings posted out to change that valve to a 30 psi or block the hole off if you are using a remote oil filter (which I did) and a oil cooler (which I did) OR severe engine damage will occur (which mine did) I burned the bearings out because the valved popped and stopped the oil from going out through the oil cooler...If you bought the block from someone else....was she blown and rebuilt and did they know to fix that valve???? Eagle Engine Sales refused to even listen to our story!!! Mike-Tampa Bay
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I have the exact same engine from Eagle Engine Sales and got screwed by them....I know this is a change of subject but wanted to give you the heads up----The engine comes with, from GM, 11 psi oil relief valves, installed beneath the oil filter remote part.......GM has warnings posted out to change that valve to a 30 psi or block the hole off if you are using a remote oil filter (which I did) and a oil cooler (which I did) OR severe engine damage will occur (which mine did) I burned the bearings out because the valved popped and stopped the oil from going out through the oil cooler...If you bought the block from someone else....was she blown and rebuilt and did they know to fix that valve???? Eagle Engine Sales refused to even listen to our story!!! Mike-Tampa Bay
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So I suppose a leak down test would be optimal to determine if it's the rings or head leaking compression. With each bank consistent with itself I'm inclined to think it's a head issue.
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So now that everything dried out a bit I went back and loaded the cylinders with WD40 and cranked it a few times. The surge before was with the comp tester in. Without it it spins quite freely. Redid the whole test with 4 compression strokes each test and here are the results. I did not have an air compressor to blow out #5 so it's still off the charts.
#1 175
#3 180
#5 210
#7 180
#2 185
#4 180
#6 180
#8 180
I'm sending the headers to CMI for inspection/repairs.
So how many of you would bolt on a new exhaust and try to save the season (Oct/Nov is best here), or call it a day and rip it apart?
Good looking primary.
![](http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt308/1Rooster/Boat/4AD48DB1-919D-4C25-B316-4F50FCA69AAC.jpg)
Leaky bastard
#1 175
#3 180
#5 210
#7 180
#2 185
#4 180
#6 180
#8 180
I'm sending the headers to CMI for inspection/repairs.
So how many of you would bolt on a new exhaust and try to save the season (Oct/Nov is best here), or call it a day and rip it apart?
Good looking primary.
![](http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt308/1Rooster/Boat/4AD48DB1-919D-4C25-B316-4F50FCA69AAC.jpg)
Leaky bastard
![](http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt308/1Rooster/Boat/DCA96B31-6739-4BFA-99EE-99FED0BB7F36.jpg)
Last edited by Baja Rooster; 09-16-2015 at 07:45 PM.
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Keep working on cleaning #5 and get that to balance out with the rest. You will have time to do that while exhaust is getting fixed. Good call sending to CMI, Deal with David Rank, he is a good guy. From the looks of the crack, its an easy fix, so long as they are not salted up junk. I would send the other header in too, If you can get #5 back inline, bolt your fixed headers on and run it.
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Yea, I was bumming. The heads still need some work but it looks like the bottom end survived. I think I got lucky when I pulled the plugs when the starter stalled.
Last edited by Baja Rooster; 09-16-2015 at 11:51 PM.
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Update:
I got the header repaired. It was cracked where the tubes are welded to the flange, but no evidence of corrosion. Got everything bolted back together and she ran better and smoother than ever. In fact, I thought the tach was not reading right because it was reading 500rpm higher than normal at idle. I think #5 has been down for some time.
I got the header repaired. It was cracked where the tubes are welded to the flange, but no evidence of corrosion. Got everything bolted back together and she ran better and smoother than ever. In fact, I thought the tach was not reading right because it was reading 500rpm higher than normal at idle. I think #5 has been down for some time.