How many hours on bigger power stuff?
10-16-2015, 07:52 PM
#11
Registered
10-16-2015, 08:28 PM
#12
Gold Member
Gold Member
10-16-2015, 10:23 PM
#13
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
10-16-2015, 10:50 PM
#15
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
10-16-2015, 11:14 PM
#17
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
10-16-2015, 11:21 PM
#18
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
My first marine blower motor I built was a 502 with merlin heads, a procharger, felpro head gaskets, arp head studs, stock 502 cam and factory lifters,got rid of the metric ringed je pistons, wasted my money on comp cam roller tip rocker arms. I ran that motor 175 hours, when boat wasn't idling it was pinned quite often. Towards the end it burned oil, leaked oil from every gasket, had high leakdown and bad blow by. When I pulled it out and tore it down rings were so soft you could roll them off the pistons like wire, the comp roller tips were blue and melted at the fulcrum balls, one of the rocker balls was split in half but miraculously hadn't let the rocker arm and pushrod eat itself! That was 13/14 years ago, I have learned alot since then and use better parts. My last few builds on my own blower motor (1100 hp 540) I used t/d shaft rockers, coated je blower pistons, 14 qt oil pan, Dart big M block, quaility american 4340 crank and rods, Isky tool room springs, .680 lift cam. I run it out to 6200/6300 and have held it for 10 minutes at full boost, BUT it was in a Baja 272 so I could never run it at wot for 45 minutes though like a true "offshore " boat but what I did was everytime I built the motor I did a leakdown test as soon as we were done dynoing it for future record. The leakdown was always in the 3 to 6/7 % range after the dyno, IF it was high then I would have went right back into the motor. Oil change intervals at a max of 30 hours (fuel dilution), sometimes change the filter and cut it open after 12-15 hours, especially if It got ran at alot of wot . Every fall when I went to put boat away I would do a compression test then leakdown test on the lowest compression cylinders. Somewhere around 80-120 hours, usually around a hundred the leakdown results would start getting into the 20% plus range and I would pull motor out and tear it down, EVERY SINGLE TIME I DID I FOUND SOMETHING ON THE VERGE OF TOTAL FAILURE!! Once I found a melling heat treated oil pump drive that had broke off one of the drive tangs that turn the pump, wasnt long for this world before that would hav ended badly, once I found a head gasket pushing away from cylinder to water passage (felpros on merlin block with afrs at 950 hp, no extra valley hold down bolts), it had not blown yet but there was no fire ring left intact so it was imminent. I also found at one point that a cloyes hex adjust comes with a POS chain that should immediately go in the trash, there were several rollers at 118 hours that were crumbling at the seam that I didnt realize they had! I still use a cloyes hex adjust but buy a different brand seamless roller chain (the hex adjust has "true" roller pins but has seams in the rollers). BUT, I continuously hear about other blower motors going 200, 300 hpurs which simply amazes me. So personally at 14 psi boost and 1100 hp I tear into mine every 100 hours or so, in 14 years of running various blown combinations have never blown one up and had to pull motor in middle of the season . My opinion is IF you run your boat like a race boat and its blown you better be changing valve springs, lifters, rings, rods, bearings, oil pumps, timing chains, etc at a set interval, mine is 100 hours!
Last edited by articfriends; 10-16-2015 at 11:26 PM.
10-16-2015, 11:35 PM
#19
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
My first marine blower motor I built was a 502 with merlin heads, a procharger, felpro head gaskets, arp head studs, stock 502 cam and factory lifters,got rid of the metric ringed je pistons, wasted my money on comp cam roller tip rocker arms. I ran that motor 175 hours, when boat wasn't idling it was pinned quite often. Towards the end it burned oil, leaked oil from every gasket, had high leakdown and bad blow by. When I pulled it out and tore it down rings were so soft you could roll them off the pistons like wire, the comp roller tips were blue and melted at the fulcrum balls, one of the rocker balls was split in half but miraculously hadn't let the rocker arm and pushrod eat itself! That was 13/14 years ago, I have learned alot since then and use better parts. My last few builds on my own blower motor (1100 hp 540) I used t/d shaft rockers, coated je blower pistons, 14 qt oil pan, Dart big M block, quaility american 4340 crank and rods, Isky tool room springs, .680 lift cam. I run it out to 6200/6300 and have held it for 10 minutes at full boost, BUT it was in a Baja 272 so I could never run it at wot for 45 minutes though like a true "offshore " boat but what I did was everytime I built the motor I did a leakdown test as soon as we were done dynoing it for future record. The leakdown was always in the 3 to 6/7 % range after the dyno, IF it was high then I would have went right back into the motor. Oil change intervals at a max of 30 hours (fuel dilution), sometimes change the filter and cut it open after 12-15 hours, especially if It got ran at alot of wot . Every fall when I went to put boat away I would do a compression test then leakdown test on the lowest compression cylinders. Somewhere around 80-120 hours, usually around a hundred the leakdown results would start getting into the 20% plus range and I would pull motor out and tear it down, EVERY SINGLE TIME I DID I FOUND SOMETHING ON THE VERGE OF TOTAL FAILURE!! Once I found a melling heat treated oil pump drive that had broke off one of the drive tangs that turn the pump, wasnt long for this world before that would hav ended badly, once I found a head gasket pushing away from cylinder to water passage (felpros on merlin block with afrs at 950 hp, no extra valley hold down bolts), it had not blown yet but there was no fire ring left intact so it was imminent. I also found at one point that a cloyes hex adjust comes with a POS chain that should immediately go in the trash, there were several rollers at 118 hours that were crumbling at the seam that I didnt realize they had! I still use a cloyes hex adjust but buy a different brand seamless roller chain (the hex adjust has "true" roller pins but has seams in the rollers). BUT, I continuously hear about other blower motors going 200, 300 hpurs which simply amazes me. So personally at 14 psi boost and 1100 hp I tear into mine every 100 hours or so, in 14 years of running various blown combinations have never blown one up and had to pull motor in middle of the season . My opinion is IF you run your boat like a race boat and its blown you better be changing valve springs, lifters, rings, rods, bearings, oil pumps, timing chains, etc at a set interval, mine is 100 hours!
10-17-2015, 12:00 AM
#20
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
I run a older version of this for a crank: http://www.competitionproducts.com/H...products/1231/
Back when I bought it they adverstised it as a "howards 4340 american made crank", was supposed to be virgin alloys, forged and machined in USA, large radiuses, and "permatoughed" .080 deep on the rod and main journals (the new ones no longer claim this). I also run the Hpwards ultimate duty billet rods, forged and machined in the US , Comp products no longer has the full line of howards stuff, my rods are 6.385 version of these with upgaraded rod bolts:
http://www.competitionproducts.com/H...products/1793/
Isky tool room valve springs and a .680 lift hyd roller cam with about 260 @50 duration specc'd by Bob Madera, I was running the Morel high rev lifters until the last rebuild cycle which I converted to Isky red zone solids, never put motor back in the boat when I finished it this year, ended up buying a twin engine 33 Sacarab AVS with HP 500's, Smitty
Back when I bought it they adverstised it as a "howards 4340 american made crank", was supposed to be virgin alloys, forged and machined in USA, large radiuses, and "permatoughed" .080 deep on the rod and main journals (the new ones no longer claim this). I also run the Hpwards ultimate duty billet rods, forged and machined in the US , Comp products no longer has the full line of howards stuff, my rods are 6.385 version of these with upgaraded rod bolts:
http://www.competitionproducts.com/H...products/1793/
Isky tool room valve springs and a .680 lift hyd roller cam with about 260 @50 duration specc'd by Bob Madera, I was running the Morel high rev lifters until the last rebuild cycle which I converted to Isky red zone solids, never put motor back in the boat when I finished it this year, ended up buying a twin engine 33 Sacarab AVS with HP 500's, Smitty
