horsepower1

I never use Inconel or Super Alloy on NA builds. There's no need and the last thing I want is extra valve weight to contend with. Most 400-500hp blown apps can use a good quality stainless and be fine but the rule of thumb usually is to use them when using any power adder.

GLENAMY 242SS

Thanks everybody for the input. I think I made my decision. Ferrea series 6000 intake P/N 6126 and Super Alloy P/N F2120P exhaust.
Special Thanks to Ferrea for providing a 40% Military Discount (Active or Veteran on line orders). This discount makes the "Insurance Policy" affordable while getting the best protection. Any last suggestions before I pull the trigger?
Thanks again.

horsepower1

Make sure you check guide clearance. Different valve manufacturers have different stem diameters.
One question I have...if you're willing to spend the money on the Super Alloy, why not the Competition Plus on the intakes? If you're NA, I'd run the Comp Plus on both intake and exhaust and never lose a minute's sleep. Another thing I'd look at if you're at that point of the rebuild is switching to 11/32 valves. It's an easy conversion for any competent machine shop and getting weight off the BB Chev. valve train goes a long way for longevity and reliability. I know some seem to think 3/8 valves are an "upgrade" for marine stuff but I will wholeheartedly disagree.
JMO

GLENAMY 242SS

+1 on the competition on Intake heck it is only $4 a hole. Thank you.

Young Performance

Personally, I won't build a marine engine (that's all we build) without Inconel or Super Alloy valves. It's just not worth it to me. I'm not so much worried about the heat as I'm worried about some water hitting a smoking hot valve. That's my biggest worry. All it takes is a few drops of water from reversion, leaking header, whatever, to hit a hot valve and you could be in for a really bad day. It could happen very easily. While it's not guaranteed that it will fail, why take the chance. I've said it before and i'll say it again. I'm not building engines for myself. I'm building them for guys that, in most cases, beat the crap out of them like they were rentals. I have to make it as solid and dummy proof as I can. I can not rely of them to be on the lookout for potential problems, water leaking, etc. For some, it's a stretch to check the oil. That's just the fact of the matter.Some are great about paying very close attention to every little detail, but they are in the minority. If a few hundred can give us both a piece of mind, then it's worth it. I don't even give my customer a choice. I just put them in the quote and that's that.
Eddie

GLENAMY 242SS

Eddie, I pulled the trigger on Ferrea Comp Plus for intake and Super Alloy for exhaust. The deal maker on the Super Alloy for me was, as you pointed out, water. I really don't want to even think of a valve failure. I truly appreciate your learned input. I'll be calling you in the near future to send you my Stainless Marine risers for O2 bungs installed.
Thank you for your input.

Young Performance

Glad to hear that you went with the Super Alloy. They are very nice pieces. You will sleep better at night. lol
I look forward to hearing from you.
Eddie

Black Baja

Iconel also not a bad choice if you have a Bravo drive. Never know when it will get stuck in reverse on a windy day and have to run in 5 miles with reverse only. Even with dry exhaust water still comes up the pipes. Just my .02 for anyone thinking of cheaping out.

Greatguy66

Go with Iconel valves with marine or see result photos in early post!

sutphen 30

yeah,,merc racing doesn't know what they're doing,,your so much smarter than them.525efi and 1075's seem to run for hundreds of hours because they they're unreliable.
1 set of offshore engines makes you far from anything close to an expert.