bobl

You do not use the block oil cooler passages. You need a remote filter setup running through a cooler and run the high pressure bypass valve.

GPM

I don't think he's running the Comp springs from an earlier post. The Comp catalog also offers the 930 spring for an upgrade for that cam. Just curious, why not look at the ramp speed of the cam rather than rpm when choosing the valve springs. How often does a lifter bounce off the lobe and beat the bearings out from to much pressure.

DBleil89

If your use the block passages you need the correct fitting for the Inlet. They will lonely flow so much oil though. However I recommend a new and bigger oil cooler. Then you can pipe in the remove cooler with and adaptor on the bottom of the block.

Just a reference on power. I just dynoed my 489 stroker. I have 10.3 to one with a mild cam, aluminum heads, air gap intake, and a 850dp holley. It pulled out 504hp and 583tq. You may be surprised with the power you get out of the motors.

MILD THUNDER

I got confused. Thought he said he was running the comp springs. I do agree totally about the ramp profiles. I assume thats why some hydraulic rollers NEED 200/500 springs to be stable to 6000, and some do just fine with 150/430, and some NEED heavy wall pushrods, and some do just fine with .080 wall 3/8 rods

getrdunn

Correct springs and proper valvetrain alignment are extremely critical on any engine let alone performance. To weak spring and your lifters can have a tendency to loft off the cam at higher rpm's and slam back to the lobe will definitely cause premature cam wear. While having to much can cause excessive valvetrain wear as well especially with non billit cams. It doesn't take to many metal shavings from improper valvetrain to work there way in through your bearings. So in a nutshell lifters may not bounce off the cam lobes or directly beat the bearings out as you mentioned but yeah can make a mess of things in a hurry.

Recommended springs from cam manufacturer is definitely recommended for longevity as well as proper alignment/geometry, clearances, etc.

Lobe profiles, ramp speed, lift, duration, max rpm all come into play when choosing the correct springs.

getrdunn

Forgot to mention make sure to have the correct retainers, locators and valve stem locks also. Not trying to over complicate these things but they can be easily overlooked and destroy an engine in no time. All I'm saying is Just be careful if your piece mealing your builds. Getting some parts here and some there can lead to incorrect matching components. It's easy to make a simple error which leads to a really bad day especially if you don't build engines on a regular basis.

Just an FYI I had an extremely high end speed shop do a simple remove and reinstall different valve springs I had purchased while engine was fresh off the dyno for the convenience on my behalf while the engine was there. Needless to say a couple weeks after I arrived back home with my engine I had an intuition to pull a valve cover to confirm all was OK. I pulled one of the retainers off to check spring play and there was about .050 plus side to side play between the spring and the locator. Ended up pulling all seals, locators and retainers and had to replace with the correct ones. Not only that the spring pressure was off with new springs and I ended up have to install -.050 valve stem locks.

blue thunder

Typically when using a remote oil filter and marine oil cooler you will remove both 11psi bypass valves. Then install a 30psi valve in the outer hole and leave the center (return) oil passage open with no bypass valve. Any fittings on the side of the truck block previously used for oil cooler should be plugged, then you run the oil cooler in series with the oil filter, exiting from and returning to an oil adapter plate mount to the block filter pad. I prefer oil filter than oil cooler in the flow path. You should go with a larger cooler, something around 3" dia, 16" long.

getrdunn

Good idea to also run oil stats as you mentioned. In many circumstances getting oil up to temp can be a challenge depending on your boating characteristics.

mggdoors

I ordered derale oil thermostats that will mount to the bulkhead. I will plug the truck oil cooler ports and run in series filter forst then cooler. Where can I get a pressure relief for water pressure due to crossover and water thermostat? I'm trying to cover all bases here before I create problems. Btw. Currently the oil coolers in my boat measure 2 1/4 x18 for the element section

phragle

So...I havent been following this thread too close, but your building a 450 hp 454 still?? Why are you running crossovers, worried about water dumps, adding fancy oil stats etc??? Dont forget to dry sump it, add spring oilers, oilers for the backs of the pistons.......

Your building a mild 454 not a firebreathing 540 with a giant blower....