350 N/A Recipes
03-15-2016, 06:14 PM
#41
Here is mine idling, it's cold in this one as I'm winterizing.
Vortex heads, gm hot cam, rpm air gap, stainless marine ect.
03-15-2016, 07:29 PM
#42
Registered
Up to the individual I guess.
And dependent on your exhaust , meaning how far down the water enters.
Personally, I like the sound of 13:1 + engines with 270+ degrees at .050 cams, and correctly tuned exhaust shaken and bumpin, and squeeking at 1500+rpm idle.
Maybe I'm one of the few like like to turn the 'bumpity bumpity idle' into something smoother so it doesn't create attention. ? I do this with car engines too. Maybe the old street racer , sandbagger, I have a rocket 307 olds with a harley carb sort of guy ? Different strokes for different folks.
And dependent on your exhaust , meaning how far down the water enters.
Personally, I like the sound of 13:1 + engines with 270+ degrees at .050 cams, and correctly tuned exhaust shaken and bumpin, and squeeking at 1500+rpm idle.
Maybe I'm one of the few like like to turn the 'bumpity bumpity idle' into something smoother so it doesn't create attention. ? I do this with car engines too. Maybe the old street racer , sandbagger, I have a rocket 307 olds with a harley carb sort of guy ? Different strokes for different folks.
03-15-2016, 07:37 PM
#43
I like the highest duration, compression, cubic inch you can get naturally aspirated. Not very practical in a boat so I go to the quarter mile track. Oh, and the top fuel cars sound OK too...haha
03-15-2016, 08:36 PM
#45
Registered
Yeah, it did and it supposedly handles a lot better and has crazy acceleration!
John Cohen was the one who originally suggested that I put a Blackhawk on it when I owned it. He said the hull worked really well with it.
Yes, I sold it in the fall of 2014, just 6 months after completing the restoration. It was a sale I'm not proud of but I unfortunately had to let it go for personal reasons.
John Cohen was the one who originally suggested that I put a Blackhawk on it when I owned it. He said the hull worked really well with it.
Yes, I sold it in the fall of 2014, just 6 months after completing the restoration. It was a sale I'm not proud of but I unfortunately had to let it go for personal reasons.
03-16-2016, 08:04 AM
#46
Geronimo36
Gold Member
03-16-2016, 10:02 AM
#47
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I can see why you miss it .
03-16-2016, 11:29 AM
#48
Geronimo36
Gold Member
Bullet grind# CHS284/292HR112+4
DUR @ .050 230/238
LIFT .530/.530
LSA 112
INT C/L 108
HYD ROLLER
07-18-2016, 11:38 AM
#49
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So for an update (thanks for the reminder SB!!) Got block back from shop, PO had said the valve cover bled all his oil out and motor would need a rebuild. machine shop found the cam had been driven in and knocked out the #2 bearing. We bored it 30 over and went back with stock cam etc. Trying to work all the bugs out to know what all NEEDS to be fixed and how much $ I have left to play on.
07-19-2016, 01:55 PM
#50
Registered
That's sad. Who could not tell they were shoving a cam bearing out of it's spot?
Cams get finessed for crying out loud. Driven, jeez!
I just finished a 383 with a little less cam than Hax put up there and it's got plenty of ponies. Has .570/565 lift and 218/224 at .050 on 113 degrees LSA. Never did a dyno run but seat of pants results are major over the stock roller 350.
Your performance guy will know enough to get you a correct squish & quench. That matters to keep out the detonation you get with the full time loading that boat engines live with. .040" is the golden rule.
Since the bottom will be apart remind him to look up ring gap factors and open them if needed. Car gaps are OE, they are smaller than N/A marine, and forced induction is even bigger. Stock gaps are a little small for the amount of heat and there's a chance of issues.
You don't need high volume oil pumps, they will potentially empty the pan.
If you plan to run hard and long you'd probably be smart to do thermostatically controlled oil cooling. Plain oil cooling without temperature control will run the oil too cold. Or go no cooler and use high quality oil with a 50 weight hot rating. Motorcycle and diesel oils are good for that kind of rating.
I boat on a busy lake with speed limits so I don't get to stay on boil for long periods. I have some 10w40 Pennzoil dino in there and it runs lots of pressure above idle and still idles at 30 psi hot. No oil cooler on mine and the engine temp runs around 160.
Cams get finessed for crying out loud. Driven, jeez!
I just finished a 383 with a little less cam than Hax put up there and it's got plenty of ponies. Has .570/565 lift and 218/224 at .050 on 113 degrees LSA. Never did a dyno run but seat of pants results are major over the stock roller 350.
Your performance guy will know enough to get you a correct squish & quench. That matters to keep out the detonation you get with the full time loading that boat engines live with. .040" is the golden rule.
Since the bottom will be apart remind him to look up ring gap factors and open them if needed. Car gaps are OE, they are smaller than N/A marine, and forced induction is even bigger. Stock gaps are a little small for the amount of heat and there's a chance of issues.
You don't need high volume oil pumps, they will potentially empty the pan.
If you plan to run hard and long you'd probably be smart to do thermostatically controlled oil cooling. Plain oil cooling without temperature control will run the oil too cold. Or go no cooler and use high quality oil with a 50 weight hot rating. Motorcycle and diesel oils are good for that kind of rating.
I boat on a busy lake with speed limits so I don't get to stay on boil for long periods. I have some 10w40 Pennzoil dino in there and it runs lots of pressure above idle and still idles at 30 psi hot. No oil cooler on mine and the engine temp runs around 160.
