Smitty

Thirdbird,
You are absolutely correct!! I just forgot to type it in. Thanks.

I would hope that whoever attempts to do this ran the engine long enough before changing oil to get it hot, then added stabilizer to gas, then ran it more to fog it.

It should definitely be hot by then I would hope.
I have done it this way for 12 years in a row and where I live it can get down to 20 below and I have never had a problem yet.

ThirdBird

Yeah, your right Big, people should know. But.......just in case, I thought I would mention it. No offense intended toward your directions buddy

blown formula

*** just a thought !!!
If you add stabilizer (as you should), you should do so BEFORE the boat is pulled to fully mix in the tank and fuel system. (lift boats)

stevel

What is the easiest way to pull the thermostat? Do you pull the cover off of the top or remove the whole casting and remove from the bottom of the housing?

timucin

I rebuilt or modify engines every season thats why I dont have such a problem...engine stays in pieces for all winter..

ursus

Just thot Id add this while were talking about this most saddest of subjects (putting boat away for winter)

Fogging Mixture :

In a 6 US gal (23 L) remote outboard fuel tank, mix:

5 US gal (19 L) regular unleaded 87 octane (90 RON) gasoline.

64 fl oz. (1.89 L) Mercury or Quicksilver Premium Plus 2-Cycle TC-W3 Outboard oil.

5 fl oz. (150 mL) Mercury or Quicksilver Fuel System Treatment and Stabilizer, OR 1 fl oz. (30 mL) Mercury or Quicksilver Fuel System Treatment and Stabilizer Concentrate.

1. Disconnect and plug boat’s fuel line from Water Separating Fuel Filter inlet.

2. Connect remote outboard fuel tank (with the fogging mixture) to the inlet of the Water Separating Fuel Filter.

3. a. Cool Fuel models: Start and run engine at 1300 rpm for 5 minutes.
b. VST models: Start and run engine at 1300 rpm for 10 minutes.

4. After specified running time is complete, slowly return throttle to idle rpm and shut engine
off.

P.S. don't skip the stabilizer, it can/does lead to stuck injectors in the spring

cuda

Damn! That 5 1/2 month statement sent a chill up my spine. No pun intended.

I really do feel for our northern brethren. It must be like going to a funeral that you know is soon, and having to do it every year.

Tejas Raz

Man, I grieve for you guys up there. Thank god there's OSO to help ya'll keep your sanity.

I do the ear muff anti-freeze thing too. Run for 10 min. or so. I want to feel hot water out the tips. Hook up muff with the garden type quick disconnects and have a cut-off gallon jug with the twisty type cut-off spout. Hang it off the swim platform full of my a/f mix. When hot, yank the water hose off, plug in the jug, twist the spout to start pickling. 3 gallons does a small block. Soon as I seen a good green flow from the tips. Kill the ignition. Done.

As an added precaution, I also put plastic freezer wrap over my prop outlet and exhaust tips with bungies to keep out cold air. Put the plug in, drop a 60 watt drop light below the oil pan and when it gets real cold, plug it in. I like insurance.

You guys who've been doing this for a long time in the far cold north make me feel better. We don't go below zero down here, but we do see the teens a few times every year. The good part... 5 days after a freeze, it may be 70 out. I'm going to the lake! Just pickle again when it's going to get cold again. In 3 years, I've only missed 2 months when I couldn't get in the water. Love it.

Scott

Steve 1

On long term storage We used to Lift the valve covers and back off the rockers on the Cylinders that had valves open that sealed the engine and helped the springs a little .

Along with the antifreeze trick

Bill272

One more small point. If you fog the motor before running it to add the a/f mix, you will burn the fogging oil off the cylinders. After changing the oil and stabilizing the gas, I run the A/F in through the muffs (with the engine fully hot). When the A/F is almost gone, I squirt the fogging oil into the carb and shut it down.

I use a kit from Camco that works like the 5 gallon bucket idea. It has a T-connector that lets you run water to get it up to operating temp, then shut off the hose and open up the A/F without missing a beat. The only problem is the valve was too restrictive and my engines would overheat before the A/F was all sucked into the engine. I got a few parts from the hardware store to replace the valve and it's worked great for the past 2 years. Looks like this...