Questions about Aeromotive fuel system upgrade on procharged 7.4
09-28-2002, 01:23 PM
#11
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i run all mine from fuel tank to water sep filter then to pump.....as far as the return i run it thru a cooler for the fuel to keep the motor in the fuel pump from getting hot you can use a ps cooler and run it after sea water pump been using stock merc seperator
on everything up to 900hp without drilling just use 1/4 pipe thread 1/2 barb fittings (hardware store or parts store used on air hose alot)never had a problem with this setup.
on everything up to 900hp without drilling just use 1/4 pipe thread 1/2 barb fittings (hardware store or parts store used on air hose alot)never had a problem with this setup.
09-28-2002, 09:40 PM
#12
Charter Member #40
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I went down this road with Aero last May. Run from the tank to first my filter, then the pump, inlets about in the middle of the fuel tank level. I am running a Kinsler fi system but accomplishing the same. I started to go directly to pump from the tank and both Aero and KE advised not to. I am running KE's seperator which has #12 in and #10 out to pump. If you modify a pump housing, make sure any internal passages are also as large as your in/out id's your after. I had an electrical system problem, not Aeromotives problem and I will say, Aeromotive was top shelf when it came to assistance. Normally you leave a message and they do call back. Good luck.
09-30-2002, 08:55 AM
#13
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I believe that it was the alcohol in the fuel that was attacking the epoxy. This would only apply to the inline fuel pumps though.
10-01-2002, 08:54 AM
#14
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Blue64drop,
You are doing the smart thing by coming to Offshore for advise from everyone. Thanks for the PM.
Per Aeromotive, it doesn't mattrer that much if your pump is above or below the tank. Let's face it , even if the pump is below the tank, the fuel/water seperator input is ABOVE the tank level. Yes you can mount the pump higher, but no higher than the input filter. It would be best to mount at about the level of the TOP of the tank. Again, few of us have fuel fittings in the bottom of the tank, they come out the top as manufactured. The A1000 pump will handle that amout of suction no problem, again per Brett at Aeromotive. Be sure your pump was manufactured after May of 2002, Call Brett to confirm that, if it is a new & old design Aeromotive will replace it for free. You should use a filter/seperator BEFORE the pump and a 100 micron filter after. DO NOT return fuel to the inlet side of the pump. That can cause heat build-up to the fuel and cause (actually) cavitation of the pump. This further heats the fuel and creates air in the line causing a lean mixture to the injectors and a pressure drop. Aeromotive recommend an AN-10 fuel feed. They say anything smaller creates heat and overworks the pump...... I however am ( and have always on two PC boats) used AN-8 with no bad results yet. I think the AN-10 is the saftey factor but still within limits for the engines demands. I used after market 1/2" fuel filter/seperator. Yes, from an auto/speed shop or Summit is fine.
I can tell you this, most of what the PC techs will tell you is wrong. They told me a fuel pressure of 22# was good, it is not. Per Merc base pressure is 37# !!
Absolutely mount the regulator ON THE ENGINE as close to the fuel rail as possible. The vacuum line from the bottom of the plenum goes to the TOP of the regulator (hard plastic line). The nipple on the regulator is a diaphram vent in case of rupture.
Good luck with your project, if I can be of further assistance PM me and we will talk.
You are doing the smart thing by coming to Offshore for advise from everyone. Thanks for the PM.
Per Aeromotive, it doesn't mattrer that much if your pump is above or below the tank. Let's face it , even if the pump is below the tank, the fuel/water seperator input is ABOVE the tank level. Yes you can mount the pump higher, but no higher than the input filter. It would be best to mount at about the level of the TOP of the tank. Again, few of us have fuel fittings in the bottom of the tank, they come out the top as manufactured. The A1000 pump will handle that amout of suction no problem, again per Brett at Aeromotive. Be sure your pump was manufactured after May of 2002, Call Brett to confirm that, if it is a new & old design Aeromotive will replace it for free. You should use a filter/seperator BEFORE the pump and a 100 micron filter after. DO NOT return fuel to the inlet side of the pump. That can cause heat build-up to the fuel and cause (actually) cavitation of the pump. This further heats the fuel and creates air in the line causing a lean mixture to the injectors and a pressure drop. Aeromotive recommend an AN-10 fuel feed. They say anything smaller creates heat and overworks the pump...... I however am ( and have always on two PC boats) used AN-8 with no bad results yet. I think the AN-10 is the saftey factor but still within limits for the engines demands. I used after market 1/2" fuel filter/seperator. Yes, from an auto/speed shop or Summit is fine.
I can tell you this, most of what the PC techs will tell you is wrong. They told me a fuel pressure of 22# was good, it is not. Per Merc base pressure is 37# !!
Absolutely mount the regulator ON THE ENGINE as close to the fuel rail as possible. The vacuum line from the bottom of the plenum goes to the TOP of the regulator (hard plastic line). The nipple on the regulator is a diaphram vent in case of rupture.
Good luck with your project, if I can be of further assistance PM me and we will talk.
10-01-2002, 09:58 AM
#17
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Going to fuel cooler, (first cooler after water pump) then T'ed just before pump input. With it going thru my cooler, fuel should be cooler that fuel that has been sitting in tank.
10-01-2002, 11:32 AM
#18
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Turbo..... Please look at my previous post regarding that heat or cool issue and Aeromotive, or call Aeromotive & talk to Brett. He will dispute your statement & recommends the tank as a heat soak for the fuel as more effecient than the "t" return.
10-01-2002, 01:33 PM
#19
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If you didn't use a fuel cooler it would add heat to the pump. However the cooler eliminates this issue. I return to my large Racor filter/seperator after the fuel cooler and the return hose is much cooler than the main "in" line to the same filter/seperator. This may even aid the cause. Unlike the automotive industry, we have an unlimited supply of water to keep things cool 
BF, what type of vacuum hose are you using from your manifold to regulator? Is this a special line for boosted applications and lastly should I also use it for the MAP sensor?
Thanks,
Dave
BF, what type of vacuum hose are you using from your manifold to regulator? Is this a special line for boosted applications and lastly should I also use it for the MAP sensor?
Thanks,
Dave
10-01-2002, 02:15 PM
#20
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Nordic.....
The "boost" sensor port is on the front bottom of the plenum, I believe there is another port to go to the map sensor. I know they are not interchangable, as the second ports signal is too weak for the regulator. The regulator sensor tube is a hard black plastic line that goes into the top fitting (silver/chrome, on the large regulator), this does not apply if you are using the small blue regulator attached to the fuel rail. That blue regulator has been recalled by PC and they will replace it for free.... just be sure to ask for the latest install manual for the hook-up process, the manual does NOT tell you to PULL the silver fitting insert out to install the line, but you do & then re-insert it (tough!). It helps to have a heat gun to warm the plastic tube to go over the plenum boost tap. Once installed, put a small tie wrap around it for security. I might add that the PC "regulator kit" requires modification of the fuel rail by removing ALL stock Merc fuel hoses, installing special brass (provided) plugs in the rail, installing a new & different fuel fitting to the front top of the rail & re-plumbing to the new reulator mounted on TOP of the engine. I mounted mine on the ECM box next to the Merc circuit breaker button. The fuel return is now from the regulator (not the fuel rail as Merc did it) back to the cooler or the tank. Quite a different arrangement than original. All my lines are AN-8. I am changing supply to the pump & to the regulator to AN-10 this winter.
The "boost" sensor port is on the front bottom of the plenum, I believe there is another port to go to the map sensor. I know they are not interchangable, as the second ports signal is too weak for the regulator. The regulator sensor tube is a hard black plastic line that goes into the top fitting (silver/chrome, on the large regulator), this does not apply if you are using the small blue regulator attached to the fuel rail. That blue regulator has been recalled by PC and they will replace it for free.... just be sure to ask for the latest install manual for the hook-up process, the manual does NOT tell you to PULL the silver fitting insert out to install the line, but you do & then re-insert it (tough!). It helps to have a heat gun to warm the plastic tube to go over the plenum boost tap. Once installed, put a small tie wrap around it for security.
I might add that the PC "regulator kit" requires modification of the fuel rail by removing ALL stock Merc fuel hoses, installing special brass (provided) plugs in the rail, installing a new & different fuel fitting to the front top of the rail & re-plumbing to the new reulator mounted on TOP of the engine. I mounted mine on the ECM box next to the Merc circuit breaker button. The fuel return is now from the regulator (not the fuel rail as Merc did it) back to the cooler or the tank. Quite a different arrangement than original. All my lines are AN-8. I am changing supply to the pump & to the regulator to AN-10 this winter.
