1992 Fountain 32 Fever
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Hello all,
I am looking at a freshwater 1992 Fountain 32 Fever. I just wanted to know if there is anything in particular to look out for in the model/year. It has the twin 502 carb engines with around 550 hours. Ive been searching all I can about this set-up but cant really find anything out about a '92. It is decently far away so I haven't seen it in person yet.
From what I understand so far, there are some issues because the boat sits so low in the water. So any and all informations would be appreciated.
Thanks
I am looking at a freshwater 1992 Fountain 32 Fever. I just wanted to know if there is anything in particular to look out for in the model/year. It has the twin 502 carb engines with around 550 hours. Ive been searching all I can about this set-up but cant really find anything out about a '92. It is decently far away so I haven't seen it in person yet.
From what I understand so far, there are some issues because the boat sits so low in the water. So any and all informations would be appreciated.
Thanks
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i may have been told this by a guy that has a 10m Fountain or i read it on the internet so you know its true, but i think his had some berth wood rot from water leaking over time thru cleats. He was gutting his as part of his upgrades, & came across it. I think that was really the only thing he mentioned.
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Well I found one surveyor in the area. (really the only one in the area) To do the most comprehensive, including new plugs, gaskets and o-rings it will be around $1500.
Is there a general consensus on what you should and should not get on a survey? Id like it to be in depth but don't want to pay any extra for BS thats unnecessary.
Thanks all for the replies thus far!
Is there a general consensus on what you should and should not get on a survey? Id like it to be in depth but don't want to pay any extra for BS thats unnecessary.
Thanks all for the replies thus far!
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Well I found one surveyor in the area. (really the only one in the area) To do the most comprehensive, including new plugs, gaskets and o-rings it will be around $1500.
Is there a general consensus on what you should and should not get on a survey? Id like it to be in depth but don't want to pay any extra for BS thats unnecessary.
Thanks all for the replies thus far!
Is there a general consensus on what you should and should not get on a survey? Id like it to be in depth but don't want to pay any extra for BS thats unnecessary.
Thanks all for the replies thus far!
Did you search here for a surveyor?
http://www.marinesurvey.org/find-a-s...full-list.html
And, what do you mean "plugs, gaskets, & O-rings"?
Spark plugs? I assume, but what else is being done with this survey?
There are 3 things I would want to be done by a professional:
-FULL structural survey of the boat for water intrusion/rot issues, especially the transom, stringers, rear top cap, and all bulkheads.
-Leakdown test on both motors
-Compression check on both motors.
The way the 32 Fountain sits in the water, the rear seam where the top cap and hull come together is almost constantly wet when at rest. This has been the Achilles heal of that model when it comes to water intrusion and corresponding structural issues.
Also, the exhaust tip holes can have the same issue. This is fairly easy to check on by removing the trim rings around the tips, and poking around with a narrow/small screwdriver. You may can do this from inside the boat as well. It may also be prudent to completely remove one or more of the exhaust tips for this check as well.
Overall, the 32 Fountain is a neat boat, quite the rocket when setup well and dialed in. The folks that have them, love them.
Sometimes, twin engines in this size boat can be a real bear to work on. When you are going through your once over of the boat, and perhaps "riding along" on the survey, go through the motions of what it will take to do normal maintenance tasks like accessing ignition components, replacing a starter, changing all 16 spark plugs, and last but certainly not least; changing the impeller/SWP.
Last edited by Sydwayz; 07-22-2016 at 10:34 PM.
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This! This! THIS!!!!
"There are 3 things I would want to be done by a professional:
-FULL structural survey of the boat for water intrusion/rot issues, especially the transom, stringers, rear top cap, and all bulkheads.
-Leakdown test on both motors
-Compression check on both motors."
We also own a 32. Had I had a survey done before hand I would have saved a whooooole lot of money and time... My forward bulkhead and 4 stringers were rotten. Mine also had leaking exhaust risers and a bad head gasket on one engine...unbeknownst to me until after I upgraded the exhaust. Live and learn!
If you are a fat guy forget about working on it yourself or go on a diet, it's pretty tight in there but if you are flexible you can do quite a lot.
Most I've heard about with rotten transoms had no sealer on the exhaust tips from the factory so check the tips as stated.
Great boats though we love ours you won't be sorry if it all checks out!
"There are 3 things I would want to be done by a professional:
-FULL structural survey of the boat for water intrusion/rot issues, especially the transom, stringers, rear top cap, and all bulkheads.
-Leakdown test on both motors
-Compression check on both motors."
We also own a 32. Had I had a survey done before hand I would have saved a whooooole lot of money and time... My forward bulkhead and 4 stringers were rotten. Mine also had leaking exhaust risers and a bad head gasket on one engine...unbeknownst to me until after I upgraded the exhaust. Live and learn!
If you are a fat guy forget about working on it yourself or go on a diet, it's pretty tight in there but if you are flexible you can do quite a lot.
Most I've heard about with rotten transoms had no sealer on the exhaust tips from the factory so check the tips as stated.
Great boats though we love ours you won't be sorry if it all checks out!
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Don't waist your money on a survey. Get a competent glass repair guy to examine the structure and a competent engine guy to examine the motors/ rigging (non-automotive).
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As a owner of a 32 there are a few things. First a 92 is a non step hull, they tend to sit a little higher in the rear. The rear rub rail should be removed and the joint cleaned then sealed with something like 3M 5200.
As it has been said seems some days fountain didn't seal the exhaust. As for working on them I moved my trim pumps to the side it makes it much easier to work on, water pumps no big deal. I have CMI on so plug change isn't bad either, and got rid of silent choice.
They are fun to drive but of course most say get a 35. Sometimes you the price makes that decision for you.
As it has been said seems some days fountain didn't seal the exhaust. As for working on them I moved my trim pumps to the side it makes it much easier to work on, water pumps no big deal. I have CMI on so plug change isn't bad either, and got rid of silent choice.
They are fun to drive but of course most say get a 35. Sometimes you the price makes that decision for you.
Last edited by Wildman_grafix; 07-24-2016 at 01:11 PM.