Solid roller adjustments or check intervals?
#11
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Valtrain stability plays an important role, the better your setup the longer you can go between lashes, shaft rockers, etc. should be able to make it a season easy.
Tim do you mind editing your question to "How often do you check and how often are adjustments actually made?" It would be interesting to hear the difference between just checking them and having to actually adjust them. Might help you make a decision.
Tim do you mind editing your question to "How often do you check and how often are adjustments actually made?" It would be interesting to hear the difference between just checking them and having to actually adjust them. Might help you make a decision.
Last edited by mike tkach; 12-01-2016 at 09:31 AM.
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#13
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due to the exhaust needing to be removed to access the valve covers the lash check&adjustment will be on cold parts.
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I average 50-60 hours a season if they do t break usually 80-100... All depends lol
That being said I don't mind pulling engines once a season but not 3-4 times...just looking at making things reliable and solids don't break or have hydraulic issue, I have not had any issues since a lifter factory Gm years ago, but while I am buying parts again I want to do it right this time. The short travel hydraulic is an option or just leaving as is with cam changes among other things being done
That being said I don't mind pulling engines once a season but not 3-4 times...just looking at making things reliable and solids don't break or have hydraulic issue, I have not had any issues since a lifter factory Gm years ago, but while I am buying parts again I want to do it right this time. The short travel hydraulic is an option or just leaving as is with cam changes among other things being done
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at this point if i were you i would worry a little less about overall power and would look for overall reliability,it would be better for your mental health and your marrage.edit in,i also believe you will do better if you find ONE person you trust and go with what he sais.i do think randy is a sharp guy and not just truing to sell his parts,before you buy any more parts,talk to him.
Last edited by mike tkach; 12-01-2016 at 10:10 AM.
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Oh I totally agree, my buddy Bill is handling it and his final say is what I get, I am asking just because it's an option, bill prefers solids in most things for the fact they don't have moving parts so to speak, that being said he's ok using hydraulics in my case for or one I have tnem already, and 2... No adjusting needed... I was curious if it's worth it to go extra mile for solids that's all.
at this point if i were you i would worry a little less about overall power and would look for overall reliability,it would be better for your mental health and your marrage.edit in,i also believe you will do better if you find ONE person you trust and go with what he sais.i do think randy is a sharp guy and not just truing to sell his parts,before you buy any more parts,talk to him.
#20
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Once a season. I would get 200 hrs out of a set of rollers. Replaced them and threw the old in the garbage. One year I tried going 250 hours and lost a lifter... Amount of hours you can go will depend on the cam. This is what I used to run. I ran .018 lash. It was very mild by solid roller standards but made good power and cams were in there for two engine rebuilds before going hydraulic; http://www.cranecams.com/product/car...detail&p=24627
I got sick and tired of lashing valves and went hydraulic a few years ago. The outside manifolds I left the tailpipes bolted up and just unbolted the manifold from the head. The insides had to come completely apart because I have 32 1/2" centers.
If you want to make all out power though, solid is the way to go. And be prepared for a noisy engine room if you're not used to the sound.
I got sick and tired of lashing valves and went hydraulic a few years ago. The outside manifolds I left the tailpipes bolted up and just unbolted the manifold from the head. The insides had to come completely apart because I have 32 1/2" centers.
If you want to make all out power though, solid is the way to go. And be prepared for a noisy engine room if you're not used to the sound.