HPJunkie

I've not had any pump or pressure problems in two seasons with 7/16' pickup or 3/8 id lines and separator on the suction side. I'd like to go to 1/2 stuff on the new boat. How do you catch the filings when you drill out the tank? Or dont you? Greg

Nordicflame

Has anyone actually had a problem directly related to the 3/8 fuel lines and what type of hp was being generated?
Just curious?

Kanookstr

At 650 HP I havn't had any problems With the 3/8" from the tank. I did however remove the anti syphon valve on top of the tank.
I'm running the same 502 Mag MPI engine, but with bigger injectors(50lbs) 2 bar map sensor, re programed ECU, at 38 psi fuel pressure at idle. Sending my pump in over the winter to have tested and maybe rebuilt after reading about some problems with the magnets.

blown formula

DITTO....kanookster. I think the biggest problem with the smaller 3/8 feed is the pump cavitation problem described earlier. 3/8 will supply enough fuel for a 650 hp (most of us are close to that range) but the PUMP has the capacity to flow way more fuel than we use and may create the cavitation problem. I, after spending a LOT of time talking to Brett at Aeromotive, am increasing the size of my lines to the filters and the pump just as a preventive measure if nothing else. AND my second pump is going back to Aeromotive for it's alcohol/additive resistnat rebuild this fall. Sometimes, ya' just gotta have faith!!

Shah Mat

What enrichens/corrects the fuel mixture on an EFI set up after a centrifugal blower is installed?

What is done with the MAP sensor?


I've been told that blown is good

blown formula

With the exception of replacing the injectors, the fuel pressure must be raised accordingly( mine is at base 45# stock injectors). The ECM must still be reprogrammed by Arizona Speed for it to be close to right. What regulator did P.C. send you? Large red one or small Blue one?

WALKIN THE DOG

Sounds like everyone has the same questions. I have a 26 Daytona with a 510ci. motor built by Performance Research and am installing my procharger this winter. Fuel is the key I'm told. Jerry May @ Eliminator told me to run #10 fuel lines from each tank to the pump & #10 return lines back to the tanks but they have to be equal length to ensure equal fuel return. My charger is a M-4 and I plan to run 5 lbs. of boost on pump gas. My comp. is 9.3 to 1 and I'm carbed with a 1000 cfm demon. Does anyone have a similar set up for any jetting info. I bought the charger from Mach Performance in Mi. and they have a hp500 carbed set up in a 25 daytona they are running 155 alcohol jets in the secondaries with a M-4. Sounds like alot of jet to me. I am pulling the motor in two weeks to set this up, then its going to the dyno shop for set-up, then back in the boat. Anybody know what the fittings int he tanks of a daytona are? I know I have 3/8 lines know to a valve then to the carb.

Any suggestions or answers????
This CAT will walk the DOG!!

Kanookstr

Nothing is done to the map sensor shah mat, The stock one is only a 1 bar sensor, That means it only reads Vacuum. The 2 bar sensor reads both vacuum and boost. The ecu is reprogramed to use the 2 bar sensor. A different fuel curve and spark curve is also reprogramed into the ecu, and this uses the 2 bar map sensor to tell the ecu what to do The fuel pressure is regulated by the Manifold atmostphere. A small line from the intake manifold is routed to the vent line on the fuel regulator, when boost is present in the regulator it creates pressure in the regulator thus increasing fuel pressure accordinly. same goes if it's a vacuum, the pressure drops. It will run ok with the stock map sensor and ecu, but for better reliability your better off running a 2bar map, reprogram ecu, and bigger injectors. Arizona Speed and marine has a great program and kit for the 502 MPI.
It comes with the 2 bar map, reprogram, 50 lbs injectors, compleat for around $1000.oo I noticed a big differance after running mine procharged stock, and after Arizona speed kit.
No black transom, better acceleration, 200 more RPM, and the bigest thing was around 150° less EGT temps!!!

blown formula

"Dear Walkin' "
I would send that carb to Dean Nickerson Performance (215-781-1370 Bristol, Pa. ) to be flowed and metered. I sent mine to him and it came back perfect. All I did after receipt was to adjust the idle up 100 rpm. No more flooding, fouled plug or black transom. Never a backfire either. Total re-machining of the carb and metering plates and air bleeds. He worked with P.C. in developement. Call him, speak to him and no one else.
On the carb version the regulator can be mounted remotely (off the engine) as opposed to the EFI version. The carb should be "squared", the same jets in all four corners. Each barrel should also flow the same amount of air. Dean fixes that. Also, Aeromotive tech Brett says AN-8 for return is sufficient, but I guess AN-10 won't hurt, just costs more!!. Send your pump to Brett to check. If it is still in warranty he will update it to use with todays fuels for free. If it is not updated (manufactured after April of 2002, it is not updated!! Get it re-built, it is a must do....
Absolutely install a 100 micron filter AFTER the pump. Aeromotive will suck thru a water seperator on the inlet side, no problem (again per Aeromotive). It will also PUSH thru it if needed. The return on twins can be merged into a wye to go into the tank.

Actually, (talk to Dean Nickerson first) the 1000 cfm Demon sounds large for your displacement and boost. Per Nickerson, a Holley 750 flows more air than an 850, so what are your repercussions??? Ask Dean. He will be right. Every carb is run in his shop before it leaves! A 750 is sold with every M1 charger so I don't know what PC supplies with an M4. It seems every PC dealer puts some of his own stuff in the kit. Good luck.

Nordicflame

Hey Kanook,
what were your EGTS?
Thanks,
Dave