Procharger Set Up
10-10-2002, 04:55 PM
#21
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Walkin- I have a 26 daytona with stage 4 procharger w/ twin 450cfm carbs on a 540BBC I will go along with what BF has said about getting with Dean. JSpeeddemon & I both have the same carb setup & we both have them jetted different.
As for fuel My boat has 1/2" hose going to a right/left/both fuel switch. I have increased the length of hose on the short side but they still do not draw the same. At least with the switch I can shut the side that runs out of fuel first & work just on the other one.
One other problem is if you do not have a hood scoop you might not be getting enought air to your engine compartment. I do not know how eliminator did yours but only way for my motor to get air was thru the 3 vents on the very back. I still do not know what I am going to do with that problem, just don't want a scoop.
As for fuel My boat has 1/2" hose going to a right/left/both fuel switch. I have increased the length of hose on the short side but they still do not draw the same. At least with the switch I can shut the side that runs out of fuel first & work just on the other one.
One other problem is if you do not have a hood scoop you might not be getting enought air to your engine compartment. I do not know how eliminator did yours but only way for my motor to get air was thru the 3 vents on the very back. I still do not know what I am going to do with that problem, just don't want a scoop.
10-10-2002, 05:55 PM
#22
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Thanks Kanook, very nice explaination.
NordicHeat,
EGT's stands for exhaust gas temperature.
Sensors are placed in the exhaust stream the give readouts of the temp. General rule....High temp means lean (very bad).... Low temp means rich (not as bad, but still bad)
NordicHeat,
EGT's stands for exhaust gas temperature.
Sensors are placed in the exhaust stream the give readouts of the temp. General rule....High temp means lean (very bad).... Low temp means rich (not as bad, but still bad)
Last edited by Shah Mat; 10-10-2002 at 05:57 PM.
10-10-2002, 07:30 PM
#23
32' SUNSATION
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Shah Mat, His question was "What were your EGT's". I think he ment what temps they were
They don't get above 1225º-1250º with the reprogram, Before I seen close to 1350º.
Here's a story for you though..... I wanted to see what they were in the stock 502 merc setup. So I installed the EGT gauge before I even did any mods to the engine. Just to see what mercruiser had for temps, and to have a before mods. comparisom. I was surprized to see that at WOT I was around 1400º
I was glad I did that first. I wasn't so shocked to see that after the procharger install it was around 1350º. If I wouldn't of checked the EGT's before. I would of thought it was to much.... It was to much, but less than stock????just wierd thats all...
10-10-2002, 08:10 PM
#24
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I DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT PRO CHARGERS BUT I CAN TELL YOU THAT DEAN NICKERSON IS THE PERSON TO TALK TO . HE HAS DONE A LOT OF WORK FOR ME; BUILT MY 2 980CFMS AND BUILT MY BLOWER MOTOR. I HAVE NEVER HAD A PROBLEM WITH IT. ANY QUESTIONS DEAN OR HIS SON BRAD HAVE BEEN MORE THAN HELPFUL.
TOM
TOM
10-11-2002, 08:10 AM
#26
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My EGT's at the port with Nickersons carb setup and 7# in the manifold were 1350 and 1400 on the 2 hottest cylinders #2 #7. Plugs looked good and no black transom. Greg
10-13-2002, 05:56 PM
#28
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I got to make the changes in my fuel delivery system and give it a try this weekend. This is what I did thanks to everyone and Brett at Aeromotive.... Tank 3/8" fitting expanded at fitting to 1/2" line....900 g.p.h. fuel filter/water seperator with 1/2" fittings...fuel pump.... Aeromotive 12304 inline filter....Regulator(red mounted on motor....fuel rail....return line to fuel cooler....return to tank.
The big question? How did it run? The motor ran very well fuel pressure at idle=37l.b.s., the fuel pump seemed to be much quieter with this set up, I think the pump might have been cavitating before! HP Junkie and anyone else....The motor would only crank out to 4500 r.p.m. at 82 m.p.h. with the 30p. Bravo I propeller. Before I ran a Bronson Hill labbed 26p. Bravo I at 74 m.p.h. 4850 r.p.m. Do you think that the 502 M-3 procharged 5lbs. should turn the 30 to 5000 grand? I did but it wasn't there.
The big question? How did it run? The motor ran very well fuel pressure at idle=37l.b.s., the fuel pump seemed to be much quieter with this set up, I think the pump might have been cavitating before! HP Junkie and anyone else....The motor would only crank out to 4500 r.p.m. at 82 m.p.h. with the 30p. Bravo I propeller. Before I ran a Bronson Hill labbed 26p. Bravo I at 74 m.p.h. 4850 r.p.m. Do you think that the 502 M-3 procharged 5lbs. should turn the 30 to 5000 grand? I did but it wasn't there.
10-13-2002, 07:08 PM
#29
Why even bother with the fuel cooler when you are returning the fuel to the tank. I'm sure it makes so little diference in the fuel temp and it adds one more thing to the system to break. Remember KISS.
10-14-2002, 11:52 AM
#30
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FIRST !!! Raise that base fuel pressure to 40-45#(again per smarter people than me!. That engine is probably starving for fuel at WOT. Under full boost your pressure should rise to about 55-60#. Be sure you hooked up the boost refernce line to the corrrect place on the regulator (on TOP not the side/brass nipple) & the tap in the front of the plenum. This is top priority.
With new plugs installed, no go make a full speed pass, pull the throttles back and turn the engine off asap. This will preserve what the plug is seeing at WOT. The plug threads should be black & sooty and slight coloring of the porcelain. The ground tip should be be black also. If it is blue, you are too lean. If it is too sooty and wet, you can lower the pressure a little. Better to start rich than lean.
Lab the new Bravo 30" and you will pick up that another 2-300 rpm. You really do not want to run bumping the rev limiter continuosly..... not a good thing, it works by shutting the fuel off which leans the engine. as I said, not a good thing!
With new plugs installed, no go make a full speed pass, pull the throttles back and turn the engine off asap. This will preserve what the plug is seeing at WOT. The plug threads should be black & sooty and slight coloring of the porcelain. The ground tip should be be black also. If it is blue, you are too lean. If it is too sooty and wet, you can lower the pressure a little. Better to start rich than lean.
Lab the new Bravo 30" and you will pick up that another 2-300 rpm. You really do not want to run bumping the rev limiter continuosly..... not a good thing, it works by shutting the fuel off which leans the engine. as I said, not a good thing!
