Help... I want to winterize myself
10-31-2002, 10:26 AM
#12
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I am not sure on fogging when It comes to an fuel injected motor but you get some of it done by removing your plugs and spraying fogging oil in there. Also you might want to consider changing outdrive oil because if any water has leaked in it will stay in the bottom of your outdrive all winter(You can imagine the possible outcomes there).
I would also change the engine oil and filter before layup and also the fuel filter, fill your fuel tank almost to the top that way there is not hardly any room for moisture to condensate in your fuel tank/ if you fill it too full the warm air in the spring will expand the fuel and it will overflow out the vent. I am sure I will think of more stuff to do before the day is up.
BTW, how do you store your boat? covered,shrink wrapped, inside, outside, heated building< ?
I would also change the engine oil and filter before layup and also the fuel filter, fill your fuel tank almost to the top that way there is not hardly any room for moisture to condensate in your fuel tank/ if you fill it too full the warm air in the spring will expand the fuel and it will overflow out the vent. I am sure I will think of more stuff to do before the day is up.
BTW, how do you store your boat? covered,shrink wrapped, inside, outside, heated building< ?
10-31-2002, 10:42 AM
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Originally posted by birdog
Luv-N-it......If you come down for the river run you can bring it to my place.....I am doing mine now, All set up for it.....Does'nt take long at all. I revover the anti-freeze and pump it thru untill temps come all the way up...Then fog.
Luv-N-it......If you come down for the river run you can bring it to my place.....I am doing mine now, All set up for it.....Does'nt take long at all. I revover the anti-freeze and pump it thru untill temps come all the way up...Then fog.
10-31-2002, 10:46 AM
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Originally posted by THRILLSEEKER
BTW, how do you store your boat? covered,shrink wrapped, inside, outside, heated building< ?
BTW, how do you store your boat? covered,shrink wrapped, inside, outside, heated building< ?
, start it up and run for a few minutes. Shut it down, then drain the water. Looks like the weather will get cool Sat. & Sun. night, but it will warm up some next week
It should not freeze up anyhow, but I want to make sure.Keep the advice coming. I'm making notes. I was going to change all fluids and filters myself this year. I am more concerned about how to get the antifreeze in the block the right way
Last edited by Luv-N-It; 10-31-2002 at 10:51 AM.
10-31-2002, 10:55 AM
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This is from an earlier thread:
Winterization means different things to different people. That's apparent just from this thread.
Pumping antifreeze into your engine will not necessarily protect it from freezing if it's done without the thermostat open. You'll fill the raw water pump, the manifolds and risers but the motor will still have water in it. The only sure-fire way of protecting the block is to drain it, remove the thermostat housing, and pour straight antifreeze in until some runs out. Then reinstall the drains and continue filling with antifreeze until the block is full. Install a new T stat (they are cheap enough) and gasket and torque the bolts back down. Drain the manifolds and pour antifreeze into the coolant hoses from the t stat end. Remove the hose from the raw water pump to the oil cooler and drain and fill it too. Remove the hose from the transom plate to the raw water pump and drain and fill it. Remember to retighten ALL the clamps.
An unfogged motor stored in a place with wide temperature and moisture variations can develop rust on the face of any open valve. This can lead to burnt valves shortly after start up in spring.
Prior to doing the cooling system, go fill the fuel tank(s)with fresh fuel and the recommended amount of stabilizer. Hook up the old garden hose and run her up to full temperature in gear. Shift it back to neutral and shut it off. Change the engine oil and filter at this time. Remove and drain the water separator and fill with a 50/50 mix of gas and stabilizer. Replace it and refire the engine. Now is the time to fog it down. Run it at fast idle and empty half a can of storage spray into the carb(do not put your face over the carb)or throttle body, slow it to base idle and empty the rest of the can into the carb stalling the engine if possible, if it won't stall, shut it off just before the can is empty. Kill the ignition, then empty the can and crank the engine over a couple times. Remove the fuel separator and replace it with a new one(ready for spring).
Inspect the drive belts and slack off the adjustments. This prevents the belts from taking a set in their shape and extends their life.
If you are a fanatic, remove the valve covers and de adjust all the valves too.
Drain and replace the gear oil while its still warm. This insures against any water damage to the drive and its ready for spring as well. Now pull the drive and inspect and grease or replace the universal joints. Inspect the input shaft seal on the drive for leakage too. Inspect the bellows. Remount the drive, pull the batteries and bring em inside, they like it warm
Now follow the steps to protect the block and you are all set for the first run of the spring. After the first run, change the spark plugs and you're good for the season.
Winterization means different things to different people. That's apparent just from this thread.
Pumping antifreeze into your engine will not necessarily protect it from freezing if it's done without the thermostat open. You'll fill the raw water pump, the manifolds and risers but the motor will still have water in it. The only sure-fire way of protecting the block is to drain it, remove the thermostat housing, and pour straight antifreeze in until some runs out. Then reinstall the drains and continue filling with antifreeze until the block is full. Install a new T stat (they are cheap enough) and gasket and torque the bolts back down. Drain the manifolds and pour antifreeze into the coolant hoses from the t stat end. Remove the hose from the raw water pump to the oil cooler and drain and fill it too. Remove the hose from the transom plate to the raw water pump and drain and fill it. Remember to retighten ALL the clamps.
An unfogged motor stored in a place with wide temperature and moisture variations can develop rust on the face of any open valve. This can lead to burnt valves shortly after start up in spring.
Prior to doing the cooling system, go fill the fuel tank(s)with fresh fuel and the recommended amount of stabilizer. Hook up the old garden hose and run her up to full temperature in gear. Shift it back to neutral and shut it off. Change the engine oil and filter at this time. Remove and drain the water separator and fill with a 50/50 mix of gas and stabilizer. Replace it and refire the engine. Now is the time to fog it down. Run it at fast idle and empty half a can of storage spray into the carb(do not put your face over the carb)or throttle body, slow it to base idle and empty the rest of the can into the carb stalling the engine if possible, if it won't stall, shut it off just before the can is empty. Kill the ignition, then empty the can and crank the engine over a couple times. Remove the fuel separator and replace it with a new one(ready for spring).
Inspect the drive belts and slack off the adjustments. This prevents the belts from taking a set in their shape and extends their life.
If you are a fanatic, remove the valve covers and de adjust all the valves too.
Drain and replace the gear oil while its still warm. This insures against any water damage to the drive and its ready for spring as well. Now pull the drive and inspect and grease or replace the universal joints. Inspect the input shaft seal on the drive for leakage too. Inspect the bellows. Remount the drive, pull the batteries and bring em inside, they like it warm
Now follow the steps to protect the block and you are all set for the first run of the spring. After the first run, change the spark plugs and you're good for the season.
10-31-2002, 05:25 PM
#17
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Here is another way that it can be done.
Most things have been hit on and should be done like changing the engine oil in the fall because of contaminates and also the lower unit because of possible water in it.
You should have Stabil or another fuel stabilizer in the fuel tank. The debate goes on as to what level to keep the fuel in the tank.
You can start by hooking up a hose to your muffs and placing the muffs on the lower unit. Start the flow of water and start your motor. This will flush the system and will help get the motor up to operating temperature where the thermostat will open. My friends 502 MPI thermostat is a 160 degree. We run in fresh water and he had recently flushed it out so we skipped the fresh water flush.
Here is where it gets different.
Place a Rubbermaid container under the lower unit and have it in the down position. We take a bilge pump like the one in your boat to remove water. The bilge pump has a clear plastic hose running from it to the muffs. There are wires from the bilge pump with a toggle switch that runs to the boat battery. Place the bilge pump in the Rubbermaid container.
The manual says the system holds 20 quarts of water so this would be 5 gallons. We place 5 gallons of antifreeze in the Rubbermaid container. So if all things add up this would be a 50/50 mixture when it cycles through. We use the automotive type antifreeze and flush it out of the system BEFORE we go to the lake in the spring. If you use this type please don’t pollute the water and if you get caught you will get fined.
All this is best done with two people.
Flip on the toggle switch and make sure that the antifreeze is flowing and start the motor.
Make sure that the exhaust is flowing through the prop and not the thru hulls if you have them. Check to see if the muffs are positioned correctly and that the hose is not collapsing. At this point the water that was in the block is now mixing with the antifreeze that was in the container. The mixture keeps cycling through the tub, bilge, motor and then back into the tub.
Even with not pre warming the motor with fresh water it still took several minutes for the temperature to get to 160 degrees. We ran the temp up a little higher and checked the mixture in the tub with a hydrometer to check the freeze protection. We had a gallon of water and a gallon of antifreeze sitting beside the tub to add to it if needed but did not have to this year. We then opened up his thru hull exhaust and let a little antifreeze expel out of them.
We then shut down the motor and then the bilge pump. At this point there would have been an antifreeze mixture that has flowed through the entire system so it will be protected.
We removed the water/fuel separating filter and dumped the gas into a clear jar.
We poured into the jar 2 ounces of quicksilver 2 cycle oil and mix it real good. We poured this mixture into a new filter and replaced it on the motor.
Start up the bilge pump in the tub and start the motor. It will take a few minutes but you will start to see the effects of the 2 cycle oil as the exhaust will be very smoky. Shut down the motor and the bilge pump and the antifreeze is through the block and the motor is fogged.
It might cost a few bucks initially for the items you will need but you and your friends will use it over and over again.
I was at the Mercury web site recently and they do not recommend using the spray type fogging oils for the EFI/MPI system because it may clog the injectors.
There are also other ways that you can fog it by shutting off the fuel supply and using a remote tank and hooking it up with a mixture of gas, oil, stabil, and injector cleaner but the filter works the same but on a smaller scale.
I noticed in the book that it said you could also remove a screw from the top of the (I believe it was the fuel vapor separator) and ad 1 ounce of oil there. I don’t have the book in front of me but I remember talking about doing it.
My friend has used the bilge pump method for years trouble free.
Just make sure that your thermostat opens. You can open the drains if you want to check it.
I have also heard that if you use the pink antifreeze it will not show a reading on a hydrometer made for automotive type antifreeze.
Cordell
Most things have been hit on and should be done like changing the engine oil in the fall because of contaminates and also the lower unit because of possible water in it.
You should have Stabil or another fuel stabilizer in the fuel tank. The debate goes on as to what level to keep the fuel in the tank.
You can start by hooking up a hose to your muffs and placing the muffs on the lower unit. Start the flow of water and start your motor. This will flush the system and will help get the motor up to operating temperature where the thermostat will open. My friends 502 MPI thermostat is a 160 degree. We run in fresh water and he had recently flushed it out so we skipped the fresh water flush.
Here is where it gets different.
Place a Rubbermaid container under the lower unit and have it in the down position. We take a bilge pump like the one in your boat to remove water. The bilge pump has a clear plastic hose running from it to the muffs. There are wires from the bilge pump with a toggle switch that runs to the boat battery. Place the bilge pump in the Rubbermaid container.
The manual says the system holds 20 quarts of water so this would be 5 gallons. We place 5 gallons of antifreeze in the Rubbermaid container. So if all things add up this would be a 50/50 mixture when it cycles through. We use the automotive type antifreeze and flush it out of the system BEFORE we go to the lake in the spring. If you use this type please don’t pollute the water and if you get caught you will get fined.
All this is best done with two people.
Flip on the toggle switch and make sure that the antifreeze is flowing and start the motor.
Make sure that the exhaust is flowing through the prop and not the thru hulls if you have them. Check to see if the muffs are positioned correctly and that the hose is not collapsing. At this point the water that was in the block is now mixing with the antifreeze that was in the container. The mixture keeps cycling through the tub, bilge, motor and then back into the tub.
Even with not pre warming the motor with fresh water it still took several minutes for the temperature to get to 160 degrees. We ran the temp up a little higher and checked the mixture in the tub with a hydrometer to check the freeze protection. We had a gallon of water and a gallon of antifreeze sitting beside the tub to add to it if needed but did not have to this year. We then opened up his thru hull exhaust and let a little antifreeze expel out of them.
We then shut down the motor and then the bilge pump. At this point there would have been an antifreeze mixture that has flowed through the entire system so it will be protected.
We removed the water/fuel separating filter and dumped the gas into a clear jar.
We poured into the jar 2 ounces of quicksilver 2 cycle oil and mix it real good. We poured this mixture into a new filter and replaced it on the motor.
Start up the bilge pump in the tub and start the motor. It will take a few minutes but you will start to see the effects of the 2 cycle oil as the exhaust will be very smoky. Shut down the motor and the bilge pump and the antifreeze is through the block and the motor is fogged.
It might cost a few bucks initially for the items you will need but you and your friends will use it over and over again.
I was at the Mercury web site recently and they do not recommend using the spray type fogging oils for the EFI/MPI system because it may clog the injectors.
There are also other ways that you can fog it by shutting off the fuel supply and using a remote tank and hooking it up with a mixture of gas, oil, stabil, and injector cleaner but the filter works the same but on a smaller scale.
I noticed in the book that it said you could also remove a screw from the top of the (I believe it was the fuel vapor separator) and ad 1 ounce of oil there. I don’t have the book in front of me but I remember talking about doing it.
My friend has used the bilge pump method for years trouble free.
Just make sure that your thermostat opens. You can open the drains if you want to check it.
I have also heard that if you use the pink antifreeze it will not show a reading on a hydrometer made for automotive type antifreeze.
Cordell
11-01-2002, 06:39 AM
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Re: Re: Help... I want to winterize myself
Originally posted by Ric232
Why do you want to winterize yourself ??? The antifreeze tastes lousy !!!
Why do you want to winterize yourself ??? The antifreeze tastes lousy !!!
11-05-2002, 12:01 AM
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Ric232-
I hear ya- I started using Capt Morgans rum. I put a 50/50 mix with Coke in a douchebag with crushed ice, elevated to get some gravity feed. Protects down to -50 or so.
There's a little clip thingy that I guess is there to keep from accidentally releasing the mixture into the environment. Isn't there a fine for that????
Bulldog AKA Ronnie
I hear ya- I started using Capt Morgans rum. I put a 50/50 mix with Coke in a douchebag with crushed ice, elevated to get some gravity feed. Protects down to -50 or so.
There's a little clip thingy that I guess is there to keep from accidentally releasing the mixture into the environment. Isn't there a fine for that????
Bulldog AKA Ronnie
