Need advice stat- filled block with water!
#11
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No muffs here, boat sits on a lift. I have hose fittings in the bilge for flushing so it definitely pushes enough pressure to flow through the motor.
#12
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If the front of the boat is tipped down it’ll ingest water even when running, and if it’s just sitting there all of that water is using the exhaust as a funnel into the engine.
Buy buy a couple cases of cheap oil and flush that bugger. Some people add some diesel fuel to the oil to bind the water to the oil to extract it.
Buy buy a couple cases of cheap oil and flush that bugger. Some people add some diesel fuel to the oil to bind the water to the oil to extract it.
Also forgot to mention in the last posts, I took the starboard riser, plugged the entry port, tipped it exhaust side up and filled the jacket with water through the holes in the tip. No leaks. They are Stainless Marine but almost 20 years old now (about 350 hours use or so).
#13
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Ok so its not angle of the boat. the deck is more or less level but the risers are definitely running downhill towards the stern.
Its 1 am im gonna call it quits for the night and get back on it tomorrow. Thanks for the support gents.
Its 1 am im gonna call it quits for the night and get back on it tomorrow. Thanks for the support gents.
#14
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Most exhaust leaks only show up with pressure and sometimes only when hot and pressurized. Sounds like your on the right path though. The water coming up the dipstick may have been a blessing.
#15
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I had run the engine for about 2 minutes and shut her off, it sounds like it wouldn't have gotten hot enough (and I didnt run it long enough to fill up with 7 gallons, although the hose was running for about an hour afterwards). And if it was a leaking riser wouldn't the water have pooled up in more than just the #4 manifold chamber?
#16
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You can just crank over after oil is drained and replaced but the shop vac just an opinion. I've shot a bunch of water out of jet skies cylinders oover the years. Biggest thing is the quicker you get on it the better. If you can pull the drain plug be ideal as water will be on the bottom. Even if you normally don't drain due to your method you can always pull plug til you start getting oil and tighten back up.
#17
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If the plugs are out, crank the motor. That will blow it out of on top of the pistons and suck it out of the ports. It would be best if you could pull the drain plug and drain the oil Pan empty yes you're draining it into the bilge. Want you to the point of adding oil, only add two quarts. That's enough to get you oil pressure. Run in about 3 minutes. Shut it off pull that drain plug again drain it empty. You don't want to leave the quart or so of water below the dipstick you want to drain that thing empty. It's going to take you 6 or 7 tries at 2 qt apiece to get it to start running relatively clean.
Last edited by dereknkathy; 03-31-2019 at 09:27 AM.
#18
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Pump it out with a priming tool with distributor removed. Keep adding diesel or thin motor oil to thin the mess. If you run a thermostat your winterizing method may not be to good.
#19
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Thats what I was thinking about 20 posts ago, if the T-stat doesn't open the raw water stays in the block and the antifreeze never enters.
#20
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yes I always drain everything after hot fill everything with rv antifreeze than run a few gallons throug as I fog. This motor probably has split lifter valley from freezing.
Last edited by 14 apache; 03-31-2019 at 03:10 PM.