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Old 04-15-2019, 08:52 PM
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Do you happen to have 1/8 pipe bungs in each header tube to use pyrometers if you where to dyno them?
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Old 04-15-2019, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by underpsi68
I'm aware my coolant system could be bigger when the air temps get 90*+ when I sit in traffic. Problem is I have the largest radiator I can fit and the most powerful fan I could find (5000cfm). I just ran out of real estate. Now put twin turbos under the hood. No room and a lot of heat.
painting the radiator black will help some. it has been tested before for heat load and the same radiator painted black transferred more heat than the same one left aluminum. what fan are you running? I have seen plenty that were rated at "x" cfm but did not really move that.
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Old 04-16-2019, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by underpsi68
I'm aware my coolant system could be bigger when the air temps get 90*+ when I sit in traffic. Problem is I have the largest radiator I can fit and the most powerful fan I could find (5000cfm). I just ran out of real estate. Now put twin turbos under the hood. No room and a lot of heat.
Have you tried going back to a belt driven water pump and factory fan? I been modding Mustangs for 23 years or so, had some huge power cars that ran cool still with the factory fan, it moves a TON of air..had a few buddies fight your issues and deciding to go back to factory setup and cools great. just a thought to try, BTW I love seeing hot rod Fords! hell even my 94 cobra uses the factory tiny radiator and fan and don't get hot with boost, and has A/C also.
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Old 04-16-2019, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Full Force
Have you tried going back to a belt driven water pump and factory fan? I been modding Mustangs for 23 years or so, had some huge power cars that ran cool still with the factory fan, it moves a TON of air..had a few buddies fight your issues and deciding to go back to factory setup and cools great. just a thought to try, BTW I love seeing hot rod Fords! hell even my 94 cobra uses the factory tiny radiator and fan and don't get hot with boost, and has A/C also.
it has a belt driven water pump. Btw what do you consider big power? 1200hp is pretty big.
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Old 04-16-2019, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 14 apache
Do you happen to have 1/8 pipe bungs in each header tube to use pyrometers if you where to dyno them?
Currently I do not, but am thinking of adding them and run the 8egts full time. I am looking into different brands right now.
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Old 04-16-2019, 11:41 AM
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I have a full set here fast acting ones for dyno. If your thinking of buying your own think they where about 48 each with ends. . They are 1/8 diameter. i have the number for the place if you need it.
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Old 04-16-2019, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by compedgemarine
painting the radiator black will help some. it has been tested before for heat load and the same radiator painted black transferred more heat than the same one left aluminum. what fan are you running? I have seen plenty that were rated at "x" cfm but did not really move that.
I have never heard that with black paint, but will look into.

From my research years ago the Lincoln Mark VIII fan was the highest flowing fan available anywhere(OEM or aftermarket- there might be a higher flowing one now, not sure). The fan came in 2 configurations, one flowed 4500cfm the other 5000cfm. The earlier version flowed 5000 but Ford had complaints that it was noisy and redesigned it to be quieter, changing the blades losing air flow. It is an awesome fan. Factory reliability, but it is very power hungry. It will draw over 100amps at startup an pull 44amps while running. It is a 2 speed fan as well. I run mine with pwm with a soft start. I don't get the 100amp spike and it will run more efficiently using pwm. If my memory is still good I run it at 90%cfm and am only pulling 50% of the amps, about 22. Pwm works great. Been running it this way for over 15 years without issue. The amount of air this fan flows is incredible. Its 18".

Another very good fan that is right behind it is the Taurus fan. It also pulls 4500cfm being a 17". Again factory reliability and they both are cheap.
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Old 04-16-2019, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Full Force
Have you tried going back to a belt driven water pump and factory fan? I been modding Mustangs for 23 years or so, had some huge power cars that ran cool still with the factory fan, it moves a TON of air..had a few buddies fight your issues and deciding to go back to factory setup and cools great. just a thought to try, BTW I love seeing hot rod Fords! hell even my 94 cobra uses the factory tiny radiator and fan and don't get hot with boost, and has A/C also.
I have used a belt driven pump. Currently running an electric (in picture) that uses an idler pulley. It is a 55gpm pump. It will flow more at idle/lower rpms than the belt driven pump. Same for using the electric fan I'm running. Also running the pump on PWM to vary the speed and amperage draw. My temps issues are more at idle/ low speed due to not much air getting into engine compartment and a small front opening. I am running a 4" thick intercooler that is as big as I could fit. Than I have 2 transmission coolers blocking the top of the radiator (as well as a frame mounted transmission cooler). It is hard to keep the tranny cool to make it last, especially with a high stall convertor. 10 years without any issues.

When you say high hp, how much are we talking? This engine will make 1000+, probably 1400 (possibly 1500) all in. It is much harder to keep a car cool driven on the street than a boat. I wish I had an endless supply of cold water lol. Also are you running a supercharger? Stock block? I ran Vortechs for about 20 years. The supercharger engine will run cooler than the turbo setup. Factory block will run cooler than my Ford "R" race block. Siamese bore with a lot more metal. Not much room for coolant. Lol Also possibly a big difference in traffic and air temps. Did I say I love NY?
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Old 04-16-2019, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 14 apache
I have a full set here fast acting ones for dyno. If your thinking of buying your own think they where about 48 each with ends. . They are 1/8 diameter. i have the number for the place if you need it.
I'm looking for a stand alone system that can monitor and datalog 8 probes of you know of any. Would like to have a gauge as well. Any recommendations there?
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Old 04-16-2019, 12:03 PM
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I don't know of any is your ecu capable of receding 8 inputs think some ecu's can. Is the guy with chassis dyno have input for 8 egt
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