R&R= Remove and replace I too agree you might want to check all your fuel lines for collapsing, vent lines as well. He!! There is even a lady bug issue on one of the threads getting into the vent causing trouble. You may be on to something there.....

Thanks except mine is an Inboard/outboard motor. Is there an easy way to do that? Do mechanics ever do that to troubleshoot fuel problems?

Yeah I was going to say when I had it commissioned in the spring the mechanic told me that 170 is good (sometimes it shows around 165). He told me sometimes when running for a long time it could go higher than 170 halfway between 170 and 220 but wouldn’t let it go any higher than that. He also said if it goes beyond 220 that triggers the alarm.

I dont know if this could be related when there has been talk of it sucking air since I’ve had this boat I hear that sound of sucking air like a vacuum, is that normal for this engine? I just thought it was how it supposed to sound but when I run the bilge blower I also get a squeaky sound when I start it but then I turn it off and restart it and its normal. This could be completely different systems and unrelated but just wondering since there was a mention of sucking air in the fuel system and that bilge sound unless that means there’s some type of air leak?

Scott

I met with the mechanics today and spoke to them for a while. First of all they told me the first things that they did was clean the fuel pickup and anti siphon valve (they did clear some gonk out of it) but it didn’t fix issue.

They did hook up a fuel pressure gauge and do a measurement when the issue manifested and found there was no fuel pressure change. They also said the computer recording did not throw any code and everything looked normal thats why they were having difficulty identifying. They said when they’re running it at 4000 RPM the issue did not occur (it’s only occurring at about 3000 to 3500 RPM which is the sweet spot for the boat). They did suggest (before I did) hooking up a fuel tank and they also have what they call a boat-in-a-box which lets them hookup to the boats wiring to see if there’s an electrical issue. They also mentioned the possibility of a TPS (throttle position sensor) issue, but that costs $1,400 to replace so they are going to test with portable tank and boat-in-a-box first.

I assume replacing the ECM would be costly too (if the part is even available). One thing I never thought to try was to turn engine off for a minute when it does occur. If it is related to the computer but its fixing itself every time I take the boat out perhaps powering it down and letting electricity dissipate out of it would help.

Thank you,

Scott