Good, honest advice wanted.
11-06-2002, 09:08 AM
#51
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DonMan:
My guess is your tach is off. I had a 97 hammer with the same motor and it ran almost exactly the same speed, but was sitting on the rev limiter at 4800rpm. Maybe check your tach first, I think your boat prob really is going that fast. The hammer is a fast (if a lil unstable) hull....
Now if you'll take some unsolicited advice.....
Don't bother with any further mods on this boat. Your just dumping money in a entry level baja that you'll never see back. Please don't take that the wrong way, I just hate to see ya dump a ton of money in a boat that's not worth it. Run it for a few years, sell it for bout what you payed for it to a new owner that will be thrilled to have a fuel injected, turn key motor, and buy something with a lil more hull in the water. You'll be much happier with a outlaw series or something along those lines. Once again, just my 2.5 cents worth.....
My guess is your tach is off. I had a 97 hammer with the same motor and it ran almost exactly the same speed, but was sitting on the rev limiter at 4800rpm. Maybe check your tach first, I think your boat prob really is going that fast. The hammer is a fast (if a lil unstable) hull....
Now if you'll take some unsolicited advice.....
Don't bother with any further mods on this boat. Your just dumping money in a entry level baja that you'll never see back. Please don't take that the wrong way, I just hate to see ya dump a ton of money in a boat that's not worth it. Run it for a few years, sell it for bout what you payed for it to a new owner that will be thrilled to have a fuel injected, turn key motor, and buy something with a lil more hull in the water. You'll be much happier with a outlaw series or something along those lines. Once again, just my 2.5 cents worth.....
11-06-2002, 09:37 AM
#53
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Maybe I wasn`t clear on my tach readings/rev-limiter.
My engine at MAX RPM shows 4650 on my tach. I tried a different prop last summer and hit the rev-limiter with it. Tach was reading 4700 when rev-limiter kicked in. With my current prop, 23P Mirage Plus, I am pulling 4650 MAX. When I sent this prop off, the prop guy did say he added more cup but did not change pitch. I didn`t see any difference between old prop and blueprinted prop except my wallet felt lighter
My engine at MAX RPM shows 4650 on my tach. I tried a different prop last summer and hit the rev-limiter with it. Tach was reading 4700 when rev-limiter kicked in. With my current prop, 23P Mirage Plus, I am pulling 4650 MAX. When I sent this prop off, the prop guy did say he added more cup but did not change pitch. I didn`t see any difference between old prop and blueprinted prop except my wallet felt lighter
11-06-2002, 09:42 AM
#54
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no i got what you were saying DM...the coment was for max....anyway....next season give me a call and i'll send ya in the right direction...no more spending $$$ for nothing....or guessing!....take care bro.....or if you come out to the races you can see and talk with our prop people...
11-06-2002, 09:56 AM
#55
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Hey Joey, while I got you here:
I`m not very knowledgable on hulls or hull theorys. I have heard of HOOK and have read how to check for it and how to correct it. Is it possible my hull has HOOK? What else can I look at on my hull? Do you think I have much speed left on the table from my prop? Do you think this is the main element to look at in my case? The prop guy I used (He is in Houston) has a satifaction guarantee. He has worked my prop once. He said to send it back and he would work it more if not happy. Do you think I should let him look at it more? If so, what should he do to it?
Thanks for your input!
Maybe I`ll see you at the races!
Donnie
I`m not very knowledgable on hulls or hull theorys. I have heard of HOOK and have read how to check for it and how to correct it. Is it possible my hull has HOOK? What else can I look at on my hull? Do you think I have much speed left on the table from my prop? Do you think this is the main element to look at in my case? The prop guy I used (He is in Houston) has a satifaction guarantee. He has worked my prop once. He said to send it back and he would work it more if not happy. Do you think I should let him look at it more? If so, what should he do to it?
Thanks for your input!
Maybe I`ll see you at the races!
Donnie
11-06-2002, 10:48 AM
#56
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no...just write him off....or ask him to buy the prop back and be done with him...hard to say on the bottom with out running the boat myself....but back to the prop....start fresh...base line with a stocker,,,take the data and get with throttle-up props...then they will be able to make adjustments on that...they actually use a computer to take the measurements....they will analyze that prop and be able to give you that data before they even start in on it!...a lot of prop guys just start removing metal, thin the **** out of and there you have it.
actually, i would be willing to bet the guy is not going to buy it from you... so make a call to julie/matt at TU and send 'em yours...they will be able to tell you EXACTLY what the guy did and if they can work with it....
hey your in TX,,,you guys boat all year round right!!
actually, i would be willing to bet the guy is not going to buy it from you... so make a call to julie/matt at TU and send 'em yours...they will be able to tell you EXACTLY what the guy did and if they can work with it....
hey your in TX,,,you guys boat all year round right!!
11-06-2002, 12:30 PM
#57
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Hey DM
Your boat does have a hook. Look at the next to outermost chine. You will see an angle to the chine surface starting about about 8" from the transom. It is about 3/8" thick by the time it reaches the transom. I also noticed it on a buddy's 25 outlaw.
Gene Weeks told me about this and said that there could be some gain from removing it, although he said that I would probably need tabs on the boat, because it might porpose in the mid range.
Two things have stopped me from messing with it. 1) That is a cored hull, and I think you would hit balsa by the time you sanded through it. I think to be done right, one would have to go from inside the hull and do some glassing. I don't know anyone I trust well enough around here. and 2) several on this board have had mixed results to say the least by removing manufacturer intended hooks.
I told Gene that I thought these would be out of the water at speed. He agreed, but said they would still be in "soft water" (spray?) and would still give some stern lift.
Who knows???
Gene Weeks told me about this and said that there could be some gain from removing it, although he said that I would probably need tabs on the boat, because it might porpose in the mid range.
Two things have stopped me from messing with it. 1) That is a cored hull, and I think you would hit balsa by the time you sanded through it. I think to be done right, one would have to go from inside the hull and do some glassing. I don't know anyone I trust well enough around here. and 2) several on this board have had mixed results to say the least by removing manufacturer intended hooks.
I told Gene that I thought these would be out of the water at speed. He agreed, but said they would still be in "soft water" (spray?) and would still give some stern lift.
Who knows???
11-06-2002, 01:00 PM
#58
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I didn't mean the rev limiter runs off the tach, i just meant maybe his engine is revving higher than he thinks, therefore the strange slipage #'s. It's pretty easy for a tach to be off a couple hundred rpm.....
don't take me too literally on the boat thing, i just kinda got carried away spending money on my hammer and ended up not getting squat $$ wise at selling time....
don't take me too literally on the boat thing, i just kinda got carried away spending money on my hammer and ended up not getting squat $$ wise at selling time....
11-06-2002, 03:59 PM
#59
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Joey, This is my original prop that came on the boat new. I sent it to the guy. Maybe he has it all f*#ked up now....
Maybe I can sell it (It`s still a good prop) and start all over with Throttle Up.
Brad, I don`t know if I want to go to that much trouble for what sounds like very little gain. Thanks for your input.
Max, I was not offended by your comments. I have thrown the idea around of stepping up to an Outlaw. My wife really likes them. A 25 footer would be about right for me. I just bought a $40K pickup and don`t think I want to go any deeper right now. I bought this Hammer from a guy who was about to lose it and got a great deal on it. If I do sell later, I should do OK either way I go.
I`m going to talk with the people at TU and get their input.
Y`all have a good one!
Maybe I can sell it (It`s still a good prop) and start all over with Throttle Up.
Brad, I don`t know if I want to go to that much trouble for what sounds like very little gain. Thanks for your input.
Max, I was not offended by your comments. I have thrown the idea around of stepping up to an Outlaw. My wife really likes them. A 25 footer would be about right for me. I just bought a $40K pickup and don`t think I want to go any deeper right now. I bought this Hammer from a guy who was about to lose it and got a great deal on it.
If I do sell later, I should do OK either way I go.I`m going to talk with the people at TU and get their input.
Y`all have a good one!
11-06-2002, 08:40 PM
#60
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I agree that getting that Hammer proped right is the first step and probably will get the boat into the high 60's to low 70's with no engine mods.
Brad,
I measured my drive height the way Cord described and came up with 5.75". (from the bottom of the transom plate to the pad) I measured a 1989 226 Sport and it has the same measured dimension.
Brad,
I measured my drive height the way Cord described and came up with 5.75". (from the bottom of the transom plate to the pad) I measured a 1989 226 Sport and it has the same measured dimension.
