tiller arm?
11-18-2002, 07:18 PM
#11
Gone Fishin'
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I'm not sure what kind of boat you have or what engine....but I managed to get my entire transom assembly off WITHOUT removing the engine. I did it this way:
-Remove the lower unit
-Remove the REAR engine mounts (the ones on the transom plate)
-Loosen the front engine mount bolts till they offer about 1/2" of clearance above the mount
-If it is a big block, you will find that it is actually front wieght biased, you will now be able to tilt it forward....I did it with my foot on the t-stat housing.
-Cut a 2x4 so taht it will hold the engine at this tilted angle, use a rag on the transom end of it, and wedge it between the motor and the transom. This may sound dangerous, but I kicked it, bounced it, and shoved it and it would not move.
-Now you can get to the blots that hold the transom plate to the transom assembly.
I had to replace my gimbal ring this spring (ended up replacing the transom assembly instead with a used one I got from LRS on this board). This took me the better part of a day, by myself for the most part. Tinkerboater helped me put it all back together and re-aling the drive (VERY IMPORTANT!!!)
While you have it apart, do yourself this favor and check the tiller arm bolt. Try to tighten it....if it wont tighten up, remove the bolt and put a washer on it (it will not have one when you take it apart). My bolt had run out of thread and simply needed the extra space to get it back to tight. Tighter now than a 15.....never mind. No play in my steering.
Hope this helps. I did it this way simply because I was kinda in a hurry and didn't have immediate access to anything to pull the motor. But I think that if I had to do it again, I'd do it this way again. My motor is really a pain in the ASS to get out!!!!!
-Remove the lower unit
-Remove the REAR engine mounts (the ones on the transom plate)
-Loosen the front engine mount bolts till they offer about 1/2" of clearance above the mount
-If it is a big block, you will find that it is actually front wieght biased, you will now be able to tilt it forward....I did it with my foot on the t-stat housing.
-Cut a 2x4 so taht it will hold the engine at this tilted angle, use a rag on the transom end of it, and wedge it between the motor and the transom. This may sound dangerous, but I kicked it, bounced it, and shoved it and it would not move.
-Now you can get to the blots that hold the transom plate to the transom assembly.
I had to replace my gimbal ring this spring (ended up replacing the transom assembly instead with a used one I got from LRS on this board). This took me the better part of a day, by myself for the most part. Tinkerboater helped me put it all back together and re-aling the drive (VERY IMPORTANT!!!)
While you have it apart, do yourself this favor and check the tiller arm bolt. Try to tighten it....if it wont tighten up, remove the bolt and put a washer on it (it will not have one when you take it apart). My bolt had run out of thread and simply needed the extra space to get it back to tight. Tighter now than a 15.....never mind. No play in my steering.
Hope this helps. I did it this way simply because I was kinda in a hurry and didn't have immediate access to anything to pull the motor. But I think that if I had to do it again, I'd do it this way again. My motor is really a pain in the ASS to get out!!!!!
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11-19-2002, 08:03 PM
#12
Charter Member #601
Charter Member
I did it on a 25' Checkmate. Lifted the engine far enough to move it forward a few inches.. got to the transom bolts and bingo.. off it came. Made the repairs and reassemble.. Nothing to it.. Believe me you will be much happier doing it the right way..
But then if you need an excuse to call the insurance company..for new boat??? Well just do it the right way..
Dick
But then if you need an excuse to call the insurance company..for new boat??? Well just do it the right way..
Dick
