formula31

If you decide to rebuild, there is lots of knowledge here. I can point you to past threads when I am on a fast line. Or do a search.

CHAOS REIGNS

thanks for the info -- i did see where lake norman performance and another shop in charlotte were recommended.

(i am in the charlotte area)

I would not rebuild it myself - -but I would take it out and take it somewhere -- I am pretty handy with my hands - but when it comes to bearings, camshafts, timing belts and all that --I prefer to pay for the expertise.

Is there anything my engine serial number can tell me about the heads and valves currently in it?

just an fyi -- it is in the boat right now - and it does run fine.

any idea of what to expect to pay for a rebuild with an increase in 100 hp?


i was guessing 2grand based on my car experience -- but is that low?

formula31

yea, I spent that much for the machine work and short block parts . Again though, it all depends on how far you want to go. I had the full blueprint work done so I dont have to mess with it again and if I want to add power I can. I think you are more likely to be in the $4000 range to do the bottom end work, forged pistons, head work, valve train, cam, intake, carb, and then you will need exhaust manifolds that beathe a lot better than stock ones to make it all come together. Or, you do the cheapy version and dont touch the bottom end and pray. Ive done that before and never made it through the summer before "boom". But, each engine is different. You have to pull a valve cover and get the casting number from the head.

CHAOS REIGNS

I have the boat in storage now (we're building a house and expect to move in about 2 weeks from now).

then i'll have my big garage to work in.

I am trying to get a plan of attack for the boat.

I wonder if i should go ahead and do the out drive and transmission first - to make sure i can handle the HP.

I figure i have jan,feb and march to work on it -- then i'll want her in the water!

the bottom line is i want to do it right -- and have it run without problems for a few years. I don't want to take the shortcut now and pay for it 6 months down the road. I believe in doing things right the first time and not having to redo them -- i just wish my builder felt the same way! (home builder that is)

blue thunder

I believe in doing things myself and then having to redo them... this is of course because I like working on boats as much as running them, and because I am a moron . For you I would recommend a crate motor of what ever hp you desire. This will cost more, but if you sell the 330 will give some back. In the short and long run you will be happier. You gotta be a little fanatical to be like Formula31 and me.

BT

dyno

do a search on" dyno's 330's on roids" I did the same thing a couple winters ago, my motors make about 480hp manifold style exhaust, SuperV's made 505 with good tubular headers its a snap!

Sonic30ss

Just my .02
I'd go crate motor, by the time your done just buying parts, you'll be at the cost of a crate motor.
Lots of school of hard knocks education here.
EMI has a nice big block in the cat.

Crazyhorse

Here in west Michigan we've got several OSO members that have done this upgrade with very good results. You can get the parts to do the rebuild for about $600 (depending on which pistons you choose) but you'll have about double that in quality (and I don't mean a buddy that's got a boring bar in the back of his garage next to his lawn mower) machine work. You'll need to get some port and bowl work done on the heads unless you plan on using GM rectangular or aftermarket heads. It can be done cheaper than buying another engine. It just depends on which way you prefer to go. Either way you decide to go, good luck and have fun.

KAAMA

mpejsa,

If your boat is a '79 then you most likely have the large oval port GM "049" castings which is an excellent casting. Do a cam change with something like 224* intake and 232* exhaust on either a 110* or 112* lobe seps. Have the block bored and honed WITH torque plates and go with either forged or hyperutectic pistons. If you're looking for 450hp you can probably do it without adding bigger valves. Just replace the stock GM valves with good one piece stainless steel valves, you'll have to add hardened seats on the exhaust side, install bronze guides, machine the guides for retainer clearence/cam lift, spring pockets may need machining for the larger springs to match the new cam. Add new 10* retainers and machine hardend locks. Then have the the heads "bowl/pocket" ported. Replace the stock piece of trash cast iron intake manifold with a new aluminum Edlebrock Air-Gap intake manifold and Holley 750cfm carb. If you're going to do this you had better replace the old "log style" cast iron exhaust manifolds with something like a Stainless Marine exhaust manifold system. If you don't add the exhaust while doing the engine mods you almost might as well not do anything at all cuz those stock log style manifolds with the risers that have all those 90* bends are EXTEMELY CRUDE and you won't see a gain in performance. Add those Stainless Marine exhausts and the engine will WAKE UP and COME ALIVE with those other engine mods. Have a "bore notch" done to the cylinder bores---this will add an additional 30hp or so on a 454. You can add larger 2.19" intake valves and larger 1.88" exhaust valves if you want to spend a little more money. The larger valves will add about another 15-20hp, but I don't think you'll need them for 450hp. You'll need to relace the stock GM stamp steel rocker arms with some aluminum roller rocker arms and 3/8" push rods/guide plates would also be a good idea. You could do all these mods to the heads or buy some new Merlin oval port heads that is better designed head that already has the larger valves, hardend seats, bigger spring pockets but you'll still have to have it powl/pocket ported and have the bronze guides installed. You'll have to do a cost comparison between the two heads designs.

The block is most likely a 2-bolt main which is FINE---you don't need a 4-bolt main and the cast crank is work excellent for what you're doing even if you have to have it turned---just make sure they do a good job on the fillets/radius's. The 3/8" rod bolt rods are fine too just have replace the bolts with some ARP "Wave lock" rod bolts and have them shot peened and recoditioned. Have the main saddles all checked and align honed if needed. Have the entire rotating assembly balanced.

Be sure to have all the machine work done by a competent, reputable machine shop who knows what a difference .0001 of an inch can make.

Crazyhorse can set you up with a cost effective parts list with some of the stuff he has done for other guys who have modified their 330's.

CHAOS REIGNS

wow -- excellant information