Merc 420 spec's ??? What is it??
11-20-2002, 09:44 AM
#31
Registered
Blown Formula,
I think you'd be doing well with that hydraulic roller cam you have listed in one of your previous posts and I think Dennis would probably agree that the 224*/232* on a 110* would work well for your application. Hydraulic roller cams/lifters are very reliable set-up these days. Usually, it's the solid/mechanical roller cams/lifters that have issues. These solids rollers require much higher spring pressures and thus are more apt to break springs and lifters and they require periodic valve adustment which can be a pain in the arse! But some guys like "Wette Vette", "26Scarab" and others believe the hassel is worth it because of the trade off in power. Solid rollers make excellent power, but at the expense of high maintenace and (some more than others and there's room for arguement on this) constant lifter and valve spring changes. Solid rollers are DEFINATELY NOT a turn-key set-up! Hydraulics rollers are MUCH easier on the valve train than solid rollers. Just thought I'd explain and straighten that out for you so that you might understand a little better. You'll be just fine with the hydraulic rollers. Just make sure that your spring pressures, installed heigth are set up and check for coil bind. This will have something to do with the lift of the cam you select. JimV can do this for you too if you have him do the head work----and he will work with your (or any) engine builder.
As far as your lifter bores go, (depending on the application) it's mostly the SBC (small block Chevy) that usually has lifter bore alignment issues and there is about a $400 machining and bushing process done to correct this. You most likely will not need this with the big block Chevy. The lifter bores should most likely be fine for the hydraulic roller lifters. Just have your machinist them checked out and have them flex honed.
BTW, Excaleagle42 did a good job of basically expaining in a "nut shell" how the wedges work.
I think you'd be doing well with that hydraulic roller cam you have listed in one of your previous posts and I think Dennis would probably agree that the 224*/232* on a 110* would work well for your application. Hydraulic roller cams/lifters are very reliable set-up these days. Usually, it's the solid/mechanical roller cams/lifters that have issues. These solids rollers require much higher spring pressures and thus are more apt to break springs and lifters and they require periodic valve adustment which can be a pain in the arse! But some guys like "Wette Vette", "26Scarab" and others believe the hassel is worth it because of the trade off in power. Solid rollers make excellent power, but at the expense of high maintenace and (some more than others and there's room for arguement on this) constant lifter and valve spring changes. Solid rollers are DEFINATELY NOT a turn-key set-up! Hydraulics rollers are MUCH easier on the valve train than solid rollers. Just thought I'd explain and straighten that out for you so that you might understand a little better. You'll be just fine with the hydraulic rollers. Just make sure that your spring pressures, installed heigth are set up and check for coil bind. This will have something to do with the lift of the cam you select. JimV can do this for you too if you have him do the head work----and he will work with your (or any) engine builder.
As far as your lifter bores go, (depending on the application) it's mostly the SBC (small block Chevy) that usually has lifter bore alignment issues and there is about a $400 machining and bushing process done to correct this. You most likely will not need this with the big block Chevy. The lifter bores should most likely be fine for the hydraulic roller lifters. Just have your machinist them checked out and have them flex honed.
BTW, Excaleagle42 did a good job of basically expaining in a "nut shell" how the wedges work.
Last edited by KAAMA; 11-20-2002 at 10:06 AM.
11-20-2002, 09:58 AM
#32
Registered
Originally posted by TomR
Blown Formula,
I have a GM High Performance roller cam 224/234 @ .050 with .527 & .544 lift with 110LSA. This cam has about 40 hours on it and is in perfect condition.
I had it in my 502 but have since done a number of other mods to the engine and have swapped to a bigger cam .
This is one of the cams that Dennis Moore mentions in his book.
Infact, I have a buddy that installed the same cam in a 454 Magnum and it really woke it up!
The version of the cam that I have has the fuel pump lobe on it.
The cam is machined for a GenVI motor but is easily adapted to a Gen IV or V by using a retainer plate that your block is already machined for and utilizing a Gen VI timing set.
The cam is just sitting on the shelf with the box collecting dust. If you are interested I would take $75 plus shipping for it, and in fact I would throw in a GenVI timing set with about 20hrs on it for another $20.
E-mail if you are interested: [email protected]
Blown Formula,
I have a GM High Performance roller cam 224/234 @ .050 with .527 & .544 lift with 110LSA. This cam has about 40 hours on it and is in perfect condition.
I had it in my 502 but have since done a number of other mods to the engine and have swapped to a bigger cam .
This is one of the cams that Dennis Moore mentions in his book.
Infact, I have a buddy that installed the same cam in a 454 Magnum and it really woke it up!
The version of the cam that I have has the fuel pump lobe on it.
The cam is machined for a GenVI motor but is easily adapted to a Gen IV or V by using a retainer plate that your block is already machined for and utilizing a Gen VI timing set.
The cam is just sitting on the shelf with the box collecting dust. If you are interested I would take $75 plus shipping for it, and in fact I would throw in a GenVI timing set with about 20hrs on it for another $20.
E-mail if you are interested: [email protected]
11-20-2002, 11:58 AM
#33
Registered
KAAMA,
I'm not sure, I think it's a steele cam because I had to run a "special Melonized" distributor gear with it, which I would include for anyone who would like to buy the cam.
It's a GM/ High performance cam.
I'm not sure, I think it's a steele cam because I had to run a "special Melonized" distributor gear with it, which I would include for anyone who would like to buy the cam.
It's a GM/ High performance cam.
