Pair of 2007 525efi flop at same time
06-23-2021, 11:18 AM
#23
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Many people forget about the fuel filter by the rail, have seen some engines with the ORIGINAL still installed 15 yrs later. Owners change the fuel/water separator spin on every season and think that's all that is needed.
06-23-2021, 11:35 AM
#24
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Thread Starter
Well, I'll take it on the chin and hope thats all that this issue boils down to. I was well aware of that filter, didn't want to scratch up the blue cap as I ended up doing (going to have a T like tool made for next time), manual does say each 100hrs or at recommission, since last changed Aug 2014, I've put on 92hrs. I know, damn sad and deserving of a separate thread! Lol!
07-05-2021, 10:20 PM
#26
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Just a quick update, finally got a new port fuel filter body installed after it had to be removed to remove the fuel filter cap. What a bear to get it all back together and in bolted up! Threading in the fuel line from the bottom was unreal...
Anyway, both engines back up and running strong!!! Burped out some air in the fuel lines on first high speed pass, but both strong and responsive now. May never know of ai had vapor lock or clogged filters or both, but now have the tools to change those filters more frequently!
I recommend getting a 7/8" crows foot wrench, 10" extension, and drive (to do the cap removal from the top) along with a 7/8" open end wrench on bottom of filter housing (block the wrench from spinning counter clockwise) to ensure it doesn't spin on you.
Enjoy!
Anyway, both engines back up and running strong!!! Burped out some air in the fuel lines on first high speed pass, but both strong and responsive now. May never know of ai had vapor lock or clogged filters or both, but now have the tools to change those filters more frequently!
I recommend getting a 7/8" crows foot wrench, 10" extension, and drive (to do the cap removal from the top) along with a 7/8" open end wrench on bottom of filter housing (block the wrench from spinning counter clockwise) to ensure it doesn't spin on you.
Enjoy!
Last edited by imartin; 07-05-2021 at 11:37 PM.
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AllDodge (07-06-2021)
07-06-2021, 01:55 PM
#27
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I would certainly say that you had Vapor Lock. The hot weather combined with the fact that the fuel was from March. That was probably still a winter blend of fuel. It has a MUCH lower boiling point so that it burns better in colder weather. It also boils MUCH sooner and at a lower temp.
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imartin (07-06-2021)
07-06-2021, 02:18 PM
#28
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If it's vapor lock on the EFI Merc's, do the following.... it worked for me quite a few times with fuel left over in the tanks leaving TX and going to FL, as well as vapor lock:
1. Push throttle all the way forward.
2. Turn key on, let engine prime, but do not start the engine, and then turn key off.
3. Repeat #2 at a minimum of 10-12 times.
4. With throttle still pinned, repeat #2 but try to start engine (it won't start), keeping the ignition button/switch on (starter trying to start the boat) until you hear the engine gargle and try to start.
5. If engine does not gargle and try to start after 15-20 seconds, repeat #2 - #4 (I never had to do this process more than twice).
6. Once it gargles and tries to start, let go of ignition button / switch, pull the throttles back to idle position, turn key off, and start the boat as you normally would.
7. Repeat process for other motors. If you have an OL, which only has one ignition switch, let the first motor run for a bit (at idle), shut off the engine and then repeat for the other engine(s).
*** To prevent this (again, info from Bud), prior to shutting off your engines, let them idle for a couple minutes first.
Hope this helps.
Fun fact: I saw a certain Cig owner at Gilberts in Key Largo who was cracking a fuel line, attempting to release his vapor lock. Out of curiosity, I asked him what he was doing. Needless to say.... he was a bit peeved when I helped him start the boat.
Fun fact #2: The OL comment from above.... I was again trying to get off the dock at Gilberts on different run and the OL guy tied on the outside was vapor locked. I was tied to the dock in the same row. Walked across the boats that were waiting on him to get his started and told him what to do. Needless to say.... the "I'm an upstate guy and my mechanic knows exactly what he's doin'" wasn't interested in a Texan helping him out. So... after threatening to cut his lines and let him figure his problems out in the middle of the channel, he let me start his boat. Took about 2 minutes. His response to his mechanic (with a look on his face) was... wh thu fk gumba? LOL
1. Push throttle all the way forward.
2. Turn key on, let engine prime, but do not start the engine, and then turn key off.
3. Repeat #2 at a minimum of 10-12 times.
4. With throttle still pinned, repeat #2 but try to start engine (it won't start), keeping the ignition button/switch on (starter trying to start the boat) until you hear the engine gargle and try to start.
5. If engine does not gargle and try to start after 15-20 seconds, repeat #2 - #4 (I never had to do this process more than twice).
6. Once it gargles and tries to start, let go of ignition button / switch, pull the throttles back to idle position, turn key off, and start the boat as you normally would.
7. Repeat process for other motors. If you have an OL, which only has one ignition switch, let the first motor run for a bit (at idle), shut off the engine and then repeat for the other engine(s).
*** To prevent this (again, info from Bud), prior to shutting off your engines, let them idle for a couple minutes first.
Hope this helps.
Fun fact: I saw a certain Cig owner at Gilberts in Key Largo who was cracking a fuel line, attempting to release his vapor lock. Out of curiosity, I asked him what he was doing. Needless to say.... he was a bit peeved when I helped him start the boat.
Fun fact #2: The OL comment from above.... I was again trying to get off the dock at Gilberts on different run and the OL guy tied on the outside was vapor locked. I was tied to the dock in the same row. Walked across the boats that were waiting on him to get his started and told him what to do. Needless to say.... the "I'm an upstate guy and my mechanic knows exactly what he's doin'" wasn't interested in a Texan helping him out. So... after threatening to cut his lines and let him figure his problems out in the middle of the channel, he let me start his boat. Took about 2 minutes. His response to his mechanic (with a look on his face) was... wh thu fk gumba? LOL
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Joe (07-06-2021)
07-15-2021, 08:42 PM
#29
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Thread Starter
Bad news, im being towed back in as I type. New fuel filters, good gas, boat was running great today for several hours, anchored off, started, ran great. Then the last of the day. Go to get on plane, a distinguish hollow metal ping (like excess fuel build up that pops), then both engines flop.
Fuel psi reading half where it should when this happens, and drops in time. Now down to 11psi both engines. Should be at 40psi.
I'm perplexed...
Fuel psi reading half where it should when this happens, and drops in time. Now down to 11psi both engines. Should be at 40psi.
I'm perplexed...
