Low Oil Temp
#13
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I have a couple theories.
The sensor does not go in deep enough because of the adapter fitting that is needed and filter mount and the fitting actually acts a heat sync and cools the oil at that location.
The other is that the same oil (or air pocket) sits in the recessed area where the sensor and fitting are. Kind of like putting something in the bed of your truck close to the cab.
The sensor does not go in deep enough because of the adapter fitting that is needed and filter mount and the fitting actually acts a heat sync and cools the oil at that location.
The other is that the same oil (or air pocket) sits in the recessed area where the sensor and fitting are. Kind of like putting something in the bed of your truck close to the cab.
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OK I agree with that, I was of the same thought so I took the Brass adaptor and drilled the inside pocket as large as I could while leaving enough strength for securement thereby allowing for a fairly large oil bath around the sensor probe. I also horizontally mounted mine and feel I get adequate volume of fresh oil flow across the adapter.
It is a shame nobody makes an oil temp sending unit with a larger base size so the probe would be fully immersed in flowing oil.
OK I agree with that, I was of the same thought so I took the Brass adaptor and drilled the inside pocket as large as I could while leaving enough strength for securement thereby allowing for a fairly large oil bath around the sensor probe. I also horizontally mounted mine and feel I get adequate volume of fresh oil flow across the adapter.
It is a shame nobody makes an oil temp sending unit with a larger base size so the probe would be fully immersed in flowing oil.
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Griff (09-10-2021)
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Just some notes on oil temps. Don't be scared to run the oil temp up a little. Would like about 215 or 225 ish. A little higher not an issue. Burns water out better. Most engines run the oil too cool.
I just took the oil cooler off to try it because mine(MPI) ran 180 to 220 ish even in hot summer. Friend of mine's carbureted 502's run with no cooler and runs around 220 to 250 ish when running hard in hot summer. Thus trying mine without cooler. Cleanest motors i have ever seen have been run their lives with quite a bit hotter oil.
I called Shell Rotella today and their upper level tech department said their 15W40 oil can take 300 F for a typical summer's usage without any issues. Interesting talk.
I just took the oil cooler off to try it because mine(MPI) ran 180 to 220 ish even in hot summer. Friend of mine's carbureted 502's run with no cooler and runs around 220 to 250 ish when running hard in hot summer. Thus trying mine without cooler. Cleanest motors i have ever seen have been run their lives with quite a bit hotter oil.
I called Shell Rotella today and their upper level tech department said their 15W40 oil can take 300 F for a typical summer's usage without any issues. Interesting talk.
#16
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Just some notes on oil temps. Don't be scared to run the oil temp up a little. Would like about 215 or 225 ish. A little higher not an issue. Burns water out better. Most engines run the oil too cool.
I just took the oil cooler off to try it because mine(MPI) ran 180 to 220 ish even in hot summer. Friend of mine's carbureted 502's run with no cooler and runs around 220 to 250 ish when running hard in hot summer. Thus trying mine without cooler. Cleanest motors i have ever seen have been run their lives with quite a bit hotter oil.
I called Shell Rotella today and their upper level tech department said their 15W40 oil can take 300 F for a typical summer's usage without any issues. Interesting talk.
I just took the oil cooler off to try it because mine(MPI) ran 180 to 220 ish even in hot summer. Friend of mine's carbureted 502's run with no cooler and runs around 220 to 250 ish when running hard in hot summer. Thus trying mine without cooler. Cleanest motors i have ever seen have been run their lives with quite a bit hotter oil.
I called Shell Rotella today and their upper level tech department said their 15W40 oil can take 300 F for a typical summer's usage without any issues. Interesting talk.
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#17
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As i mentioned below, I removed the oil cooler since the oil has always run to cool. WOT was like 215/220, which is perfect but only at WOT..
I ran 4600 rpm for almost 10 minutes in hot weather. The oil was at 275 without the cooler.. Nice to know it didn't get way higher, and motor can live with that. I didn't check it at normal slower cruising speeds but expect it to be a lot lower. Hopefully 225 to 235 in hot summer..
I also expect it to come down a little when i richen the AF ratio up, as its running lean right now. .Running lean can have a big affect on oil temperatures.
If you look at the oil taken from a motor running the oil too cool, vs a motor with oil say 220 or higher, there's a BIG difference in the look of the oil. You can tell the colder running oil has a lot of moisture in it turning it a more brownish color(or very slightly milky) instead of a cleaner, just a pure dark look with the hotter oil.. I've sent oil samples off in the past when running the oil with the factory cooler setup, and sure enough, has a lot of moisture in it.
I finally stopped all the moisture getting back to the motor thru the exhaust as a result of exhaust Reversion, which was giving a lot of the moisture issues in the oil and on the exhaust valves. But still had brownish oil from too much moisture with the oil cooler. The oil looks much better without the cooler.
Good luck.
I ran 4600 rpm for almost 10 minutes in hot weather. The oil was at 275 without the cooler.. Nice to know it didn't get way higher, and motor can live with that. I didn't check it at normal slower cruising speeds but expect it to be a lot lower. Hopefully 225 to 235 in hot summer..
I also expect it to come down a little when i richen the AF ratio up, as its running lean right now. .Running lean can have a big affect on oil temperatures.
If you look at the oil taken from a motor running the oil too cool, vs a motor with oil say 220 or higher, there's a BIG difference in the look of the oil. You can tell the colder running oil has a lot of moisture in it turning it a more brownish color(or very slightly milky) instead of a cleaner, just a pure dark look with the hotter oil.. I've sent oil samples off in the past when running the oil with the factory cooler setup, and sure enough, has a lot of moisture in it.
I finally stopped all the moisture getting back to the motor thru the exhaust as a result of exhaust Reversion, which was giving a lot of the moisture issues in the oil and on the exhaust valves. But still had brownish oil from too much moisture with the oil cooler. The oil looks much better without the cooler.
Good luck.
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Below is an article i found from Engine Labs on auto engine oil temps..So what temperature can you run in your car/engine?
That is quite a loaded question and near impossible to answer without a lot of testing. We can give it our best shot, though. Most passenger cars are perfectly fine with oil temps up to 240-260 degrees F *utilizing the OEM recommended oil weight*, with some being designed to handle temps up to 315 Degrees F and higher! How can this be? Standard oil these days have flash temps well over 200 C (400 degrees F), and as long as there is sufficient oil pressure, the oil does not care what temperature it is at. That being said, utilizing an OEM engine and OEM clearances, we would suggest sticking to the OEM oil weight up to around (240-250 Deg. F). If it makes you feel safer, run a bit thicker oil but with thicker oil, comes increased engine wear at cooler temperatures and increased heat into the oil through more friction and less flow (flow and pressure are inverse, as you increase pressure, you decrease flow). Above this temperature, we would recommend increasing the hot temperature weight to ensure sufficient oil pressure. Due to each engine having different optimum operating conditions, we cannot recommend a pressure/RPM to shoot for.
https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stor...ty%20breakdown.
That is quite a loaded question and near impossible to answer without a lot of testing. We can give it our best shot, though. Most passenger cars are perfectly fine with oil temps up to 240-260 degrees F *utilizing the OEM recommended oil weight*, with some being designed to handle temps up to 315 Degrees F and higher! How can this be? Standard oil these days have flash temps well over 200 C (400 degrees F), and as long as there is sufficient oil pressure, the oil does not care what temperature it is at. That being said, utilizing an OEM engine and OEM clearances, we would suggest sticking to the OEM oil weight up to around (240-250 Deg. F). If it makes you feel safer, run a bit thicker oil but with thicker oil, comes increased engine wear at cooler temperatures and increased heat into the oil through more friction and less flow (flow and pressure are inverse, as you increase pressure, you decrease flow). Above this temperature, we would recommend increasing the hot temperature weight to ensure sufficient oil pressure. Due to each engine having different optimum operating conditions, we cannot recommend a pressure/RPM to shoot for.
https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stor...ty%20breakdown.
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UPDATE, water test went perfect. Thermostat cycled correctly and sent the oil to the cooler as needed. I have temp sensors in AN fittings coming out of the engine and going back. Also added a oil pressure gauge at the thermostat. Should burn off the contaminates in the oil now. Going to get another oil analysis and hopefully get good results. I have always been worried about the oil being too hot not too cold.
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