axapowell

I own Nitrous Oxide Plus... An official NOS authorized dealer. For one, they are right, don't mount the selonoids under the intake. They are not made to withstand the heat. Second, how much are you going to spray? They have an inside the air cleaner (flame arrestor in this case) kit wich will allow you to add about 100-125 hp. It is very easy to hide and won't call too much attention.

Consider the complications you may face before you do this. What are you going to do about props? Nitrous is only good for WOT. If you have propped your boat to run without NOS, are you going to put a larger prop on to compensate for the additional HP? I've been using NOS in auto applications for over 15 years. You get to red line a lot faster, but either on the street or strip, it's over in 10 seconds or less and you are shifting gears. Cars don't run at a consistant RPM such as a boat.

I've thought that getting up to top speed, this would be a great idea, but what happens when you hit max rpm? If you do decide to go this route, I suggest a window switch. This will allow you to turn the NOS on at a oredetermined rpm and to shut it off at a predetermined rpm (around 500 rpms below redline).

If its theroy you are interested in, check out my web site

http://home.stny.rr.com/nosplus

If you have any other questions, feel free to e-mail me form the website. Hope this helps! Dave

JUSTONCE

first nitrous is in no way a cool burning gas. Nitrous is an oxidizer it is like oxygen on an oxy/acetlyn torch alone it is not flamible but as a catalyst it burns extremely hot so hot that the gasoline being added to the system with the nitrous is to cool the cylinder temp.just because the intake is cold that is from the gas decompressing and has nothing to do with burning temp. if you don't think nitrous oxide burns hot run a 100shot and no added fuel to cool the charge and melts the piston to the cly. wall thats not cool burning. the cool pre charge does help emensely with forced induction because it does eliminate turbo lag by killing some of that superheated air coming from the turbo this helps the fuel atomize better in the air charge.
Timucin: on a boat I'd avoid nitrous just because its to hard to dail in a prop don't you think.? I say turbo's all the way
axapowell is right on.

HyperBaja

Thats what I was thinking of, cooling the air for a turbo.

mcollinstn

maybe axapowell can shed more light, but for years I have continued to hear that the nitrogen works as a damping agent, cushioning the chemical reaction.

Of course nitrous will melt a motor with no added fuel. Nitrous is not a fuel at all, it is an oxidizer like you say. Adding oxidizer with no additional fuel is akin to going full lean under max load. We all know what happens then.

The reason one adds more fuel with the nitrous is that regardless of what you feed a motor, you must provide a relatively "close" stoichiometric mix of fuel and oxidizer. Too much fuel is rich, too little fuel is lean. The gas is not added as a cooling agent, it is added cause it needs to be there to burn.

Nitrous is nothing more or less than liquid supercharging - instead of PUMPING more oxidizer into the engine (roots blower, whipple, procharger, etc) you are spraying it in. However you add oxidizer, you must add fuel or you melt.

Course maybe I'm way off here..

26scarab

Just a funny (well not really) story of a nitrious run gone bad.

We were at the dragstrip about 10yrs ago (Detroit Dragway) and there was this really nice 64-65 Chevy II , with a 10 inch slick. It had a SBC in it with 2 plates and a Fogger.
Well it made a pass blew up around the 660 mark and hit the gaurdrail (noone was hurt). Well thru out the day people kept walking by the were the Chevy II was pitted and coming back shaking thier heads. Well after about an hour of this we decided to see what the big deal was about... WELL I don't think I've ever seen anything quite like it before or since. As we walk up to the trailer the guy (driver ..not the owner of the car) was standing there with some people holding part of the block with oil filter attached , part of the trans bell housing and a corner of the cylinder head...all attached. We then peek under the car and saw more carnage... the crank had broken in half and was twisted 90 degrees so the broken end was facing us , in doing this it wrapped the oil pan around the drag link that is why it hit the guardrail. What a mess. I think the only things save able were one cylinder head , and the intake. The carbs were even wasted (the throttle blades were all bent up from the explosion)

JUSTONCE

Mcollinstn: what you are saying about the stoich. is corect and a lean mix will allways burn hotter than rich, maybe I didn't explain what I was saying very well but wat I meant is not that the added gas is for cooling but that no lean mixture without nitrous can ever burn as hot as with the nitrous, just trying to explain that juice doesn't burn cool and I was using the cooling effect of richening the mixture to give reference to temp. Bottom line is I've been building nitrous motors for a number of years now and I know one thing is if you keep your stoich. right and don't overadvance your timing a reasonable nitrous charge is no more dangerous to your motor than the gas you put in it.

mcollinstn

J.O.

Roger, I'm with you.

I've seen nitrous done on everything from kids' 4-wheelers to jetskis to full-on pro 5.0 Mustangs.

The guys who play the game with nitrous shutoffs tied to fuel pressure switches that kill the juice when the fuel pressure drops all still have motors. The idiots who change the juice orifices without adding fuel all end up with scrapmetal.

jdnca1

Just Once;

Good summary.....AMEN to your point of a reasonable NOS shot not being any more dangerous to an engine the the gas you put in it.

My point is the ambient temp of the intake charge is "super cooled" on the squeeze going into the combustion chamber which the motor likes.....Of course you must add more fuel to compensate for this.