Torque roll
#11
Dagwell,
What's your drive ratio? Any slop in the gimbal?
I can't imagine Sunsation would have sold a boat that listed that bad. Stock power? I ask about drive ratio because prop pitch is the major contributing factor for torque roll. You could maybe drop pitch and increase drive ratio and reduce torque roll. We go about it differently, being direct drive, but we can often reduce prop walk in our model boats by reducing pitch and running the engine in a higher RPM range.
Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991
What's your drive ratio? Any slop in the gimbal?
I can't imagine Sunsation would have sold a boat that listed that bad. Stock power? I ask about drive ratio because prop pitch is the major contributing factor for torque roll. You could maybe drop pitch and increase drive ratio and reduce torque roll. We go about it differently, being direct drive, but we can often reduce prop walk in our model boats by reducing pitch and running the engine in a higher RPM range.
Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991
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SB (10-27-2022)
#13
So, I was reading these reply’s and just thought about something. There is a repair on the (not sure it’s real name) plate below the prop. And it sticks out about a 1/4” more on the starboard side. Could that be my problem? If so maybe I’ll just grind down the weld and try that.
#14
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
its called a skeg and I would remove it
#15
VIP Member
VIP Member
So, I was reading these reply’s and just thought about something. There is a repair on the (not sure it’s real name) plate below the prop. And it sticks out about a 1/4” more on the starboard side. Could that be my problem? If so maybe I’ll just grind down the weld and try that.
I cannot imagine it not having an effect.
If you do grind it down, and the torque roll is still there, I'd be more inclined to follow SB's train of thought. Seeing as you're new to boating, it might be fair to consider operator error. There is more to driving a boat than throttle and steering. With both boats I've owned, I would set the drive trim all the way down for take-off, which helps to get it on plane quicker with less bow rise, then trim it up to achieve proper ride attitude. When I trim up after planing, I can actually feel the boat free up. What happens is the bow lifts a bit, which gets more of the boat out of the water, allowing for less wetted surface. The "bow steering" that SB mentions comes from the bow being pushed down into the oncoming water. When you take off, do follow a similar process, or leave it where it is, wherever that may be?
Try and have a friend take a pic or video of your boat on plane from the side. This will tell us a lot about how the boat rides, as far as attitude.
Further.... When you grind that weld bead away, do you best to keep the trailing edge as sharp as you can, but minimal rounding. The sharper the trailing edge, the more efficient the movement through the water, due to the Bernoulli effect. Don't leave it so sharp it will cut skin, but don't round it off, either.
And, for the record.... That boat should run pretty well with that 28P Bravo1 prop. I get ~76MPH out of my PQ280 with one. And no torque roll.
Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991
Last edited by Brad Christy; 10-27-2022 at 01:20 PM.
#16
VIP Member
VIP Member
#17
Registered
The two owners are brothers and super intimately hands on with their boats. They used to give out great advice to sunsation owners on the forums, before the forums died iff substantially. Be really smart to givem a ring.
#18
Dagwood,
I cannot imagine it not having an effect.
If you do grind it down, and the torque roll is still there, I'd me more inclined to follow SB's train of thought. Seeing as you're new to boating, it might be fair to consider operator error. There is more to driving a boat than throttle and steering. With both boats I've owned, I would set the drive trim all the way down for take-off, which helps to get it on plane quicker with less bow rise, then trim it up to achieve proper ride attitude. When I trim up after planing, I can actually feel the boat free up. What happens is the bow lifts a bit, which gets more of the boat out of the water, allowing for less wetted surface. The "bow steering" that SB mentions comes from the bow being pushed into the oncoming water. When you take off, do follow a similar process, or leave it where it is, wherever that may be?
Try and have a friend take a pic or video of your boat on plane from the side. This will tell us a lot about how the boat rides, as far as attitude.
Further.... When you grind that weld bead away, do you best to keep the trailing edge as sharp as you can, but minimal rounding. The sharper the trailing edge, the more efficient the movement through the water, due to the Bernoulli effect. Don't leave it so sharp it will cut skin, but don't round it off, either.
And, for the record.... That boat should run pretty well with that 28P Bravo1 prop. I get ~76MPH out of my PQ280 with one. And no torque roll.
Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991
I cannot imagine it not having an effect.
If you do grind it down, and the torque roll is still there, I'd me more inclined to follow SB's train of thought. Seeing as you're new to boating, it might be fair to consider operator error. There is more to driving a boat than throttle and steering. With both boats I've owned, I would set the drive trim all the way down for take-off, which helps to get it on plane quicker with less bow rise, then trim it up to achieve proper ride attitude. When I trim up after planing, I can actually feel the boat free up. What happens is the bow lifts a bit, which gets more of the boat out of the water, allowing for less wetted surface. The "bow steering" that SB mentions comes from the bow being pushed into the oncoming water. When you take off, do follow a similar process, or leave it where it is, wherever that may be?
Try and have a friend take a pic or video of your boat on plane from the side. This will tell us a lot about how the boat rides, as far as attitude.
Further.... When you grind that weld bead away, do you best to keep the trailing edge as sharp as you can, but minimal rounding. The sharper the trailing edge, the more efficient the movement through the water, due to the Bernoulli effect. Don't leave it so sharp it will cut skin, but don't round it off, either.
And, for the record.... That boat should run pretty well with that 28P Bravo1 prop. I get ~76MPH out of my PQ280 with one. And no torque roll.
Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991