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Do I need oil temp gages?

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Old 02-01-2023, 08:20 AM
  #71  
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Look inside of your filter head where the filter would cover. Look at the size of the oil passages your filter sees. That is the restriction in size I am talking about.
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Old 02-01-2023, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by TomZ
I have a pair of oem Merc HP 500 thermostatic filter heads that I might be able to let go of if that’s what you need. Includes the brackets that bolt to the back of the left bank cylinder head.

I used Hardin oil coolers with built-in thermostats so these are just sitting on the shelf.
how much would you want for them?
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Old 02-01-2023, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by PQ290Enticer
My entire history of boating has been stock setups. This is the first year that I will be running modified engines. BBC's 500 hp. I did buy new oil coolers that are supposed to be good up to 700hp. They are not thermostatically controlled. I kept the stock oil pans. My builder said that at my hp level they would be fine. I plan on using the 160 degree thermostat for water. I am running the standard belt driven sea pump and brand new BBC standard (marine) circulating pumps. Should I also now start monitoring the oil temps? I see a lot of posts on here that refer to oil temps and how they modify their boating based on those numbers.
My next question is about 02 sensors. I was thinking about running fuel injection so when I ordered my new risers I had them weld in the 02 bungs. I have decided to go with carbs and was going to just plug them up. I was looking through the misc. new posts and pics and noticed that someone running carburetor's also had 02 sensors installed. Do some of you guys also run gages at the dash for AFR? FYI, my new engines have been dyno'd and set up so not sure it’s necessary to monitor? Looking forward to your comments.
I ran out of dash room but mounted an Afr and fuel pressure gauge
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Old 02-02-2023, 10:41 AM
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Nice. I should be able to mount my additional gages in the dash but that will be it. May have to redo the dash next year.
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Old 03-04-2023, 09:59 AM
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I am not trying to beat this dead horse but I am confused yet again. I have attached a pic of an oil thermostat housing (offered by a company who should know?) and it shows the direction of plumbing is again contrary to advice given here on this site. I do agree with the advice given on this site that hotter oil is best sent to the filter first then to the cooler however I don't think this "thermostat housing" will operate properly if I don't follow their install instructions. I still have the "in-line" connection point for the oil temp sending unit so I could still get an accurate reading but with this thermostat I would be sending cooled oil to the filter. Maybe I should run as is and see if I actually need an oil thermostat? Post #70 shows what I currently have as a cooler and block adapter. My engines are 500hp. Thanks for your comments and advice.


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Old 03-04-2023, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by PQ290Enticer
My entire history of boating has been stock setups. This is the first year that I will be running modified engines. BBC's 500 hp. I did buy new oil coolers that are supposed to be good up to 700hp. They are not thermostatically controlled. I kept the stock oil pans. My builder said that at my hp level they would be fine. I plan on using the 160 degree thermostat for water. I am running the standard belt driven sea pump and brand new BBC standard (marine) circulating pumps. Should I also now start monitoring the oil temps? I see a lot of posts on here that refer to oil temps and how they modify their boating based on those numbers.
My next question is about 02 sensors. I was thinking about running fuel injection so when I ordered my new risers I had them weld in the 02 bungs. I have decided to go with carbs and was going to just plug them up. I was looking through the misc. new posts and pics and noticed that someone running carburetor's also had 02 sensors installed. Do some of you guys also run gages at the dash for AFR? FYI, my new engines have been dyno'd and set up so not sure its necessary to monitor? Looking forward to your comments.
I have a oil temp gage before and after the oil cooler. Get a oil thermostat, it will bypass the cooler to keep the oil at 210 degrees. Running too cool is actually bad. I went through this a couple years ago and posted it here. I also have a O2 gage on my dash with Holley MPI, I had bungs welded in the risers when I ordered them.
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Old 03-04-2023, 05:00 PM
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Jeff, Did you read post #75? I am all for installing the thermostat my problem is the way they want it plumbed. Thanks for your comment.
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Old 03-05-2023, 08:06 AM
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Still looking for input on post #75. Thanks for your help.
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Old 03-05-2023, 08:15 AM
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I am using that same thermostat, it’s a nice piece. Makes for a neat install. Occasionally I boat in sub bath water temps and being able to get the temps up helps keep the oil from looking milky under the oil fill cap. The instructions are pretty clear. You will have in and out from the filter head and same from the oil cooler.

Last edited by smokediver; 03-05-2023 at 08:23 AM.
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Old 03-05-2023, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by PQ290Enticer
Still looking for input on post #75. Thanks for your help.
Since you're waiting for an answer, I'll try to give my insight.

You're using a thermostatic unit for a reason - to not send oil to the cooler if it is already too cool.

If you follow the Hardin/CP marine instructions, the thermostatic unit will only send oil to the cooler when it's hot enough to need cooling. However, there will be flow to the filter REGARDLESS of the oil temperature, which is what you want. You want filtration all the time, not just when the oil is hot.

I would follow the instructions for the Hardin /CP instructions if this was my install.
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