Revd Up

I would want to take it apart and get a good look at all of them. You don't want this. The noise is giving you a warning.

Wildman_grafix

Well the best news is IF they haven't takin a chit yet it's the best time of the year for it to happen. You have all winter to fix.

fbc25el

I tried everything under the sun to get my hydraulic roller lifters to stop ticking. I tried special top secret motor oil adjusting when we only had a full moon and on and on. Went to solid roller lifters with pin oilers on my hydraulic cam problem solved .

PQ290Enticer

I always thought the roller cams were the way to go if you could swing the cost. It never occurred to me that there could be so many problems associated with them. I thought they were the "best of the best sir"! Maybe I should have saved a ton of money and gone flat tappet? Nothing in my builds required a roller set up, I thought it was better and LOL an added layer of protection. Anyway, I am going to assume that there has been a lifter failure however, I will do my best to troubleshoot (including the oil change) just so I know. I do not want a catastrophic failure so I am leaning towards different lifters and as mentioned by Wildman I have all winter to get this figured out. I probably wouldn't go with solid lifters because of the PIA factor at least yearly to lash them in. Maybe your setups are different but a lot of stuff gets removed including the exhaust just to get the valve covers off with my setup. Plus I don't think I can even get a socket on the crank bolt without removing the back seat. I think my build is towards the bottom as far as stress on components goes. Low compression, small cam, and the AFR heads use this spring package: "PAC Racing Springs #1940 Street Hydraulic Roller Spring 1.550 O.D. 175 lbs. on seat .725” max lift Max RPM 6500-6700" which I'm guessing is not very much. I would think that much higher numbers across the board put more stress on all components. Maybe that's why you guys unfortunately suffered the catastrophic failures and I got off lucky with a warning? Thanks again for your comments and help.

F-2 Speedy

Dont be fooled solid rollers break to and dont do flat tappet, there is are literally thousands of roller motors out the there doing just fine,

PQ290Enticer

Thanks F-2. I was thinking that both are rollers so the bottom ends are the same construction. I expected some things to happen being new builds and all, just not something like this. Still, it was a great season! Thanks again.

BBYSTWY

I know you ruled it out already but you did mention your exhaust bolts were less than tight....an exhaust leak at the flange can and will sound like a lifter tick just fyi....before you jump in with both feet I would be doing some more investigating rather than just changing parts because you think they are bad. I had a leak at the flange on one and at the elbow on my CMI E-tops and both sounded like a lifter tick. Fixed the leaks and no more noise. Search on here a thread called "do you use silicone on exhaust gaskets" or something like that. Very informative....not saying that's the issue but just offering some advice. Good luck.

liberator221

Hydraulic roller is the way to go. I think there are some issues with sub quality parts unfortunately. I would never go back to flat tappet. Either the oil is a problem or cam/lifters are junkc. Heard of lot more people losing lobes/lifters on flat tappers than I ever use to. (good mechanics, not hacks) If solid lifters need a yearly adjustment something is wearing creating change in clearance.

jbraun2828

I've had the same thing happen to me on a 525, would have sworn it was a lifter but it was the header leaking. I ended up doubling the gasket and the noise was gone.

TeamSaris

ISKY EZ Rolls. Not cheap but worth every penny. Bullet proof Hyd roller lifters. They use Johnson bodies with ISKY bushings. They do not have needle bearings. Theyll take a ton more spring psi than a regular needle bearing lifter. We have them in race motors turning 6k for hours at a time, have yet to have a problem in the 8+ years(50+ engines) we've been using them.
They're rebuildable as well. God forbid something did fail, no needle bearings to spew around your engine.