SB

i’d like too see pics of this and answers to your questions too.

underpsi68

Also couldn't one check for an internal coolant leak by capping all of the external fittings and pressurize the coolant system before the engine is disassembled again?

87CigCafe

I am wondering the exact same thing. I REALLY don’t feel like taking these back out for a 5th time

Tartilla

I have SM exh manifolds. The white specs if adhered to the surface are likely aluminum oxide blooms.

But too hard to confirm with the photos. The soot covers it up, but if the surface was poor before, and oxide not removed, then it's easier for it to bloom up.

The manifold to riser connection flange has more evidence of the oxide.

87CigCafe

Alright.

drained them both put new fresh oil and oil filters on ran them for a few minutes to get warm fogged the s*** out of them with fogging oil.


where do I start. On figuring this crap out I am so sick of this lol. Ready to check myself into the insane asylum at this point.

thanks everyone so far for commenting and leaving feedback I am all for it right now. I am at a total loss

SB

Again, Put up a pic of the frt of the engine as installed in the boat. We’ll have some questions.

87CigCafe

ok will do just shortly!

compedgemarine

and a list of what parts were or were not on when dyno'ed. even if it seems irrelevant.

Brad Christy

87CigCafe,

I'll preface this by saying that I am about as far from an engine guru as one could be. But I like logic puzzles, so....

Since you ran them wet on the dyno, but with dry exhaust, and didn't get the chocolate milk, it seems obvious the issue is in the exhaust tract. The culprit has to be in the difference between the dyno setup and the rigged&running setup. Since you're seeing the chocolate milk in both engines, it seems logical it has to be a systemic issue, meaning something to do with the intentional builds (mismatched parts or improper assembly methodology), and likely not an incidental human error or material/part defect.

Taking a stab at it, and someone might chime in and advise against it for reasons, but.... Try disconnecting the water from the exhaust manifolds, routing it overboard, and running it as long as you think you should without any exhaust cooling, then check your oil. If it passes that, and after it has cooled off, reconnect the manifolds and disconnect the jumper from the manifold to the riser, routing it overboard, run it again and check your oil again. Eventually, following your exhaust tract toward the tips, you should find your intrusion point.

Thanks. Brad.

Brad Christy

Comped,

Yup. This. My bet is parts were removed and replaced between the dyno and install, whatever they may be, and the whole ain't happy. Curiously awaiting the verdict.

Thanks. Brad.