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Old Yesterday, 11:50 PM
  #41  
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The blower becomes a blow torch, eventually the water from the intercooler puts the fire out (and cleans my pistons)
Happened about 3500rpm , suddenly no power , then it came back a bit , but wouldn`t go over 3K rpm .
Lucky I didn`t hydrolock it and bend rods.

There`s witness marks from flames coming out of the intke valve that lit that party.
Valve hung up, spring issue? Valve bounce?
Not Sure.
Checking installed height and spring pressures now to see that it has enough ..





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Old Today, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
Welp I was hoping not to wrench this much on this boat , thought I had payed enough money for it to be right but that didn`t work out.

I was really hoping for a winter without pulling engines ... at this point it`s embarrasing like I`m a total idiot that doesnt know what he`s doing, pulling engines every year .
Got guys like Johnny from Saris telling me all I can build is "garbage motors" .
It`s hard to keep going .
just like everyone else, I sometimes ( or very often i should say 😂!)look at some more expensive boats than mine, such as the nortech's similar to yours, and think to myself if i would spend that much more money on a well care for boat, i could hope for a reliable trouble free boat! Problem is, i would not have the bank to pay for expensive problems, similar to what you are going thru... although i consider myself lucky to own what i have, i often wish to have a little more exotic and faster boat... reading what you are going thru helps me stick to my slow, stock small merc power boat... that does not mean i am healed tho! I still have that disease of bigger faster! It just helps me thame the flame... till next time!

but hang in there! You will see light at the end of the tunnel soon! I sure hope its not a train !

fix it and enjoy your dream boat next summer !
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Old Today, 09:01 AM
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Man I feel your Pain!

I am going though everything you are. Bought a 34 Cat last year, haven't had it in water yet. Knowing that at least one engine was hurt. 825 Teagues that supposedly had the top ends done 50 hours ago. I planed on repower with more HP with new drives as well. Found a pair of "core" Quad rotor Teague engines here. One supposedly good the other apart with the same melted down intercooler issue as you, except cooper nickel cored. Try finding new copper nickel cores. Whipple doesn't even have them and no plans on making more. Both engines have total rebuilds now, after 6 months in the shop, still waiting on welded heads with new tucker seats to be done then assembled. Then to Dyno tuning, I think it was the tune that was the issue with my engine meltdown. Winter project is to get these engines in the boat with new drives. Old engine out for rebuilds then shelved or sold. Point is that you are not the only one as others have said. I know full well the more HP the more work to keep that HP. It just is what it is. HP engines, a true boat owners nightmare on steroids. Probably the main reason for the outboard trend, pull the whole unit and replace it for the cost of a rebuilt inboard.

Looking forward, has anyone put a temp sensor (Switch) that does not melt in the plenum area between the blower and intercooler? Wire in the sensor to power the ECU or relay to the fuel pump to kill the engine. Preventing the meltdown from happening again. This meltdown is an expensive fix for both $$$ and time. In my situation intercooler cores even used are all but nonexistent. These are MEFI 4 controlled engines. The temp sensor below the intercooler did melt down to a plastic glob. The other solution is to go to port injection below the intercooler.
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Old Today, 11:32 AM
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Jeff at least this thread helped someone lol.
Lake boat ,

A EGT sensor would take the heat but I think it happens so quick there`s no time to react. That being said, aluminum melts at 700ish , ****pernickle at 2000* and tested to 5 minutes so maybe it`s not as fast with cupernickle.
I wanna know why that happened thou . Id like to fix the issue not bandaid it .
I mistakenly used projected tip plugs but I dont think that the issue .

Eddie Young
Definitely an intake fire. This an only be caused by 1 of a few things......sitting on the limiter, misfire that happens when the intake valve is open, or a hung intake valve from either too tight lash or a sunken valve seat. The plug has to fire when the intake valve is open, which lights the intake charge inside the intake. Then, it's constantly fed by fuel and oxygen and burns until the core melts and the water puts out the fire.
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Old Today, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
Jeff at least this thread helped someone lol.
Lake boat ,

A EGT sensor would take the heat but I think it happens so quick there`s no time to react. That being said, aluminum melts at 700ish , ****pernickle at 2000* and tested to 5 minutes so maybe it`s not as fast with cupernickle.
I wanna know why that happened thou . Id like to fix the issue not bandaid it .
I mistakenly used projected tip plugs but I dont think that the issue .
Smitty has tested projected tip plugs to around 1200 hp with no issues, Im running them this year for the first time to try to cut down on the fouling, idle out of long no wake coves... sorry for this man it really sucks.
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Old Today, 12:16 PM
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Just a FYI, helps me too! I am getting close to a repower or different boat and when I think different boat as I said before. One where it needs power so I know what it has.

If we are taking bets, I put mine on what Eddie said, valve sticking.

Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
Jeff at least this thread helped someone lol.
Lake boat ,

A EGT sensor would take the heat but I think it happens so quick there`s no time to react. That being said, aluminum melts at 700ish , ****pernickle at 2000* and tested to 5 minutes so maybe it`s not as fast with cupernickle.
I wanna know why that happened thou . Id like to fix the issue not bandaid it .
I mistakenly used projected tip plugs but I dont think that the issue .
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