obnoxus

Just a thought, I have an Eagle and wanted to just replace the carpet, I called Eagle asked them for carpet,,, and just for chits and giggles I asked them how much to send me COMPLETE CARPETED REPLACEMENT BUNKS. It was only like $100 more !!!!!!!!!!!!! Ill tell you what for my money it was well worth it,,, just unbolt and rebolt ( I did buy new hardware ) no screwing around unstapling and restapling at a gazzlillion places.

WETTE VETTE

Thanks for the replies. I will give Eagle a call and see how much for new bunks. I like projects, but if for only a few bucks more I can get finished replacement parts it is well worth it to me. Thanks again!!

Brad Perry

I can't believe nobody mentioned it. Get away from the lag screws, if you don't mind a little more work. I can't tell you how many of those lags are laying around a trailer parking lot. Saw the result when a friends bunk came off while he was loading. You can guess the result! OUCH!

Use a mushroom headed bolt and counter sink this into the bunk before stapling on the carpet. When you fit the now carpeted bunk to the trailer, use a normal stainless nut (with a touch of anti-sieze) to snug the bunk down. Then follow with a nylock stainless nut. It will NEVER come off (or rust). Can't put the nylock on by itself, as there isn't much to keep the bolt from spinning. Once the first nut is on snug, you can go to town on the nylocks.

I checked out an obove average trailer on a friend's Cobalt, and they did this from the factory!

blown formula

The above idea is good, but taking it one step further corrects the "turning bolt" problem.

With a flat spade bit countersink the bolt hole 3/8-1/2" deep. on the bottom side of the bunk insert a stainless T-nut & thread a regular bolt & washer thru from the top side. Tighten. Now the bolt is "fixed" and will not turn when installing the "draw down nut" on the trailer. It is important to countersink the bolt head & washer below the surface of the bunk, then carpet it (or use the slip strips). I don't like them as I have seen people loose their boats on the ramp. And where will the boat go if the winch line fails? ZOOM!!

Brad Perry

I knew someone would better the idea!

I thought of that back when I redid the trailer, but did not think of slightly counter sinking the T-nut. I didn't like the idea of the T-nut directly on the trailer iron. That way the bolts don't have to be as long. It would look cleaner with one nylock and a washer.
Also don't have the dangling problem of the bolts under the carpet, trying to get them all in the trailer holes.

convincor

I used galvanized cariage bolts and counter sunk them.
I think stainless is a waste of money. The wood will need replacing long before the galvanized bolts rust thru.
As far as the boat sliding off with use of the sticks and the winch line breaking, are safety chains or cables being used????
I would never rely on just one strap or cable when pulling a boat up a ramp. Make up a chain or cable just long enough to hook from the base of the winch mast to the bow eye.
Safety First.