rapp river

What type of prelube do you use when installing a hydraulic roller? I thought I saw a thread where regular cam prelube should not used. Looking for some help.

mcollinstn

I've always used regular old engine assembly lube on roller cams, cam bearings, main and rod bearings, distributor gears, and rocker arms. Straight 50 weight on pistons, rings, piston pins, valves, rubber seals, and o-rings....

I pump hydraulic lifters up with an old pushrod in a drill press with the lifter in a coffee can of 50-weight with a wood block to stick the lifter body into (hole drilled halfway thru it).

Use a drive rod in a drill motor to pump oil thru the motor before ever cranking it the first time.

Dave F

none.

I do use the assembly lube on the distributor/cam gear though.

The book says not to use any of those assembly lubes on the cam itself. The rollers do all the work.
Just massage the cam generously with oil in your hand before installing.
Dip the lifters, pushrod ends and rockers in oil before installing and then before you put the intake on, pour the oil you'll be using directly on all those parts. Use priming tool to watch your oil circulate, put your intake on and install your distributor and fire it up.

That's how I like to do it.

DAVE

blown1500

I pretty much agree with Dave F. I do use cam assembly lube on the bearings, pushrods, and rockers, but just some oil on the cam=probably not needed with a roller, but old habits are hard to break. If you read the assembly instructions with most hydraulic lifters, roller or flat, they say to just install without soaking or pumping up. I usually adjust the valves with an empty lifter if I can. I just feel the clearance by spinning the pushrod and when the lash is just taken out, I turn the adjuster 1/2 to 1 turn, depending on the application. They rattle when first fired, but quieten quickly when the oil gets there. I DO ALWAYS lube the distributor drive gear on the cam and the distributor. with a manufacturer approved lube!! Also, be sure to use a correct distributor gear. If your cam has a steel gear, you must do something to prevent cam gear wear. This means, usually a bronze distributor gear. They wear out fast. If you have a cam with a cast gear, which most manufacturers offer now, just use your old one. If you need a different distributor gear, Comp Cams had one made from some type plastic or something. It is black in color, weighs almost nothing-you will think the box is empty-and is tougher than nails. They have them stock shaft size and .500" like MSD.

mcollinstn

I don't use "cam lube" on anything other than hydraulic flat tappets... I only use general engine assy lube. And straight 50 weight.

I've probably got ten tubes of cam break-in lube sitting around from guys who have brought them to me with their roller cams to be installed. I don't use it.

Another interesting engine assembly lube story. I've assembled probably fifteen or so motors for some local motorcycle roadracers. The pistons are installed in the bores DRY. DRY rings, DRY slugs, DRY holes (pins, of course are oiled). Rings seat in almost immediately. I questioned this but was assured by four top pro team mechanics that this is the ONLY way to get the rings to seat in these race motors with the bores as slick as they are now - otherwise it takes a thousand miles of street break-in to get them seated.

big poppa pump

hey
give skinny a call at minter's tracter,he's not doing anything
he could teach you the right way , maybe get your boat to go faster.

rapp river

Thanks everyone for the responses. Just double checking myself.

rapp river

Big Poppa Prick,

We are talking about 8-cylinder 4 stroke engines here. We do not mix our gas and oil. Go back to outboardville. And get a paddle.

blown1500

I install the pistons and rings ALMOST dry. If the motor sits for any period of time, you could get rust. I do lube the wrist pins and put a tiny amount of assembly lube on the skirts. This seems to be the standard at the Cup shops I deal with also.
If the engine us to sit for any period of time, I will spray in some type of after run oil or "fogging oil" for rust protection. I used to lube the pistons and rings liberally, but not any more!!

Dave F

When installing pistons and rings I use the same principle as the cam. I simply pour oil in my hand and massage the bore and what's left I massage the piston.
After all pistons are in I'll squirt a couple of drops on top of the piston before I put the head on. That way, when I get to put the fire to it, the pistons aren't moving up and down in the bore unlubed. When the fire does take over it's just a puff of smoke and everything's normal.

DAVE