mcollinstn

You got me. I can't remember seeing one like that.

Elite Marine

ttt

blown formula

Aeromotive can provide a suitable regulat5or for you. HOWEVER, mount it as close as possible to the fuel rails and install a non-liquid filled pressure gauge @ the fuel rails. If the regulator is too far away, the fuel pressure will oscillate wildly (very bad)! Ideally it should be on the rails or within about 12" of the rails. The regulator can bolt to the Merc electronics box with a simple bracket. The regulator does not necessarily need to be in-line (ahead of)with the cool-fuel . Call Aeromotive, they will spend all day talking to you if needed. No charge. Been there/done that!!

Shooter

Dude, I'm sorry, but you have to stop the semi-accusations because those in the know, know the real deal. Yellow seals or not.

You blew your own boat up and that's that. When the alarm goes off - you shut down, unless you're about to be run down, especially on a high-perf motor. Anything else and the whole build goes south, as well as all the post-mortem diagnostics. It has been mildly pointed out to you before but your're not getting the hint. Fishing around until someone agrees with you does not fact make.

Hey man, I feel for ya, I've toasted a motor before that no matter what, was essentially my own fault. Yes, and it sucks. There's a lot to be said for stock motors (that's why I'm running them now - until I get the itch again). Please enough with the little off-handers here and there.

That's a beautiful and well-kept boat you have there. It's one of the best handling and running 24's I ever been in. Jo makes a great boat and stands behind them for life. The engine builder you speak of has a great reputation and the previous owner was meticulous in it's care.

I'm not picking a fight and this is not a flame, just a firendly nudge to move on.

Take care (it's an ffing fast boat) and good luck to you.

Elite Marine

Hey Shooter,

I certainly would not fault Mark. He is a top notch individual that was just as suprised if not more than me that this ocurred.

As far as me blowing up the boat, its kind of hard to do when you notice oil in the bilge after leaving the dock in a no wake zone for the second time driving the boat . . ever! I never even got to drive the boat fast because I wasn't used to it yet and it scared the hell out of me. The oil was there from day one and I think it was there when Mark owned it, he just thought it was from an oil change when he spilled in the bilge. I believe him and thats why I didn't jump on him or anyone for this issue.

As far as "your" engine builder is concerned: I was hoping that the reputation you speak of would at least demonstrate more concern for a 10 hour engine than it did. The actual builder seemed very concerned when I could speak to him, it was his wife who never let me speak to him or passed on my phone numbers. I don't expect anything when purchasing a used piece of equipment, especially high performance equipment, but I would at least like to know the potential cause of a failure to avoid it in the future. A reverse rotation seal is a potential failure. You can read that on any seal manufacturers site. I never once mentioned the builder, even though he did not know that yellow was reverse rotation and informed me that he has installed this seal in numerous boats. Which is simply negligent.

If I blew the boat up, why would I be so damn concerned about the cause? I'd know that it was my own stupity and move on. You assertions are erroneous and unsubstantiated. I wish the cause was that easy to figure out. So tell me, how did I blow it up?

Elite Marine

By the way, I started this thread because my engine builder informed me about Procharger having faulty fuel pumps and regulators a while back. They sent me a new regulator, and now I'm researching the pump. This thread had nothing to do with the seal or failure. Just trying to avoid a future failure. So if you have info about the pump I'd appreciate your input, otherwise say hello to Mark for me and let me gather my information in peace.

red racer

The Areomotive pump was originally designed for automotive use. The use in the marine industry caused the detachment of the internal magnets from the marine's use of alchol in the underwater fuel tanks. This additive is used to stabilize the fuel while storing it underwater.

The second cause will be the cavitation of the pump when it runs out of fuel after it reaches full regulated pressure. The pump over heats due to the lack of cooling new fuel and the flow through it.

This is why Procharger and Areomotive recommends plumbing the excess pressure back to the tanks. In my set-up, I lost the magnets after 200+hours. It was set-up with 3/8" lines and a recirculator through the cooler back to the head of the pump This was a decent set-up, but not he best. The true set-up was recommended that I change it all out for 1/2" lines with the excess being returned through the cooler back to the tanks. This does included all of it - fuel / water seperator, lines, tank switch (expensive), and the tank feed tube (inside the tank).

After the rebuild, so far far so good.... Only one season with 50+hours.... My engine is a built 454 w/ M-1 running mid-600's pushing the boat to 86.6mph (GPS) at 4200rpms and 5lbs. Had to cut the throttle because my little 21' Cole was flying way too high..... Will see what I can handle next season....

Good luck, Red Racer

blown formula

What you read above & do a search on "meltdown" is all the research you need to do. Be sure to install a 100 micron hi-flow filter AFTER the pump (in between) and before the fuel rails. This catches anything "lost" thru the pump and is as recommended by Aeromotive for the original install. I burnt an engine also, that's how I learned..... it's not the engine builders fault.
Check the tiny filters in the individual injectors and you will find trash there. However, the injectors in the bad cylinders will be almost blocked. That is what did the damage. This "defect" first appearred last April (2002) before Aeromotive knew anything about it. The problem was marina's added extra "dryer" (alcohol) to absorb water in the fuel. This caused the pumps epoxy to break down. So, the fault lies not with Aeromotive or the refineries..... but with the marinas and individuals adding after market fuel additives. Get the pump repaired by Aeromotive (one day turn around) put in the extra filter as specified, rebuild the engine & go have fun!! Welcome to the world of Performance!!

frankie

Hey guys, I thought I was the only one with Pro charger fuel pump problems. This past summer (June) I installed a set of M-3 Pro chargers on late model 502efi's in a 35ft Cigarrette. Installation was "buy the book" per Pro charger. Only running 5psi boost, 1/2" fuel lines from tanks, hi flow filter sep..Pumps are red Aeromotive a-1000's supplied by Pro charger. Boat ran great for about 10hrs, then lost starboard side engine. Tore it apart ,found 1 totally melted piston, later found the pump would not pump fuel. After costly$$$$ rebuild, was up and running again. Boat ran great until October then lost port side engine. Found 3 melted pistons. I could't understand why the engines were leaning out, I'm running 35-36lbs fuel pressure @ idle, regulator is boost ref. on intake manifold. If I bump the Idle pressure up even a couple of lbs the motor floods over and runs rough, fouls plugs. I just got the other engine back together ,lots more $$$$$. After reading this thread I'm thinking of scrapping the aeromotive pumps and regs.and go to maybe some Barry Grants or something. Any suggestions? I'm loosing my faith in Pro charger. I can't afford to make the same mistake.

Elite Marine

Its not Procharger, its the fuel pump laminate deteriorating and clogging the injectors or jets. According to the feedback I've received, we need to install 100 Micron filters after the pumps. Switching to new pumps would solve the problem, but I'd still install filters.