Carb Spacer, Super Sucker Gain 10 HP, does this thing work?
01-26-2003, 11:27 AM
#12
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For the most part those high $$$ spacers are "snake oil".
True some engines benefit from a spacer, but not all. As said earlier the four-holer will add to low end torque and the open spacer to top end.
The open spacer increases the size of the plenum under the carb. Some engines respond to more plenum....then again some don't.
The groove and shapping......well they're just that. Don't see any advantage on most applications.
My $.02
True some engines benefit from a spacer, but not all. As said earlier the four-holer will add to low end torque and the open spacer to top end.
The open spacer increases the size of the plenum under the carb. Some engines respond to more plenum....then again some don't.
The groove and shapping......well they're just that. Don't see any advantage on most applications.
My $.02
01-26-2003, 10:48 PM
#14
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The only way you are REALLY, REALLY going to TRUELY KNOW for sure is IF you have your engine dyno tested you can do a few pulls for comparison. IF it does in fact give you a 10 horsepower increase and although every bit of Horsepower adds up, you still won't feel it in a boat and won't really know if it's doing you any good OR BAD or not unless you test it on a dyno. I am a firm believer that little things that are done for horsepower gains DO add up, but unless you dyno test it on the engine you plan on running then little things like that COULD be a waist of money. Different engines respond to different components differently. Best wishes. 
Mark/KAAMA
Mark/KAAMA
01-27-2003, 09:51 AM
#15
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How about this carb spacer. You can buy the intake with a Dominator base, but this adapter makes more power?
I think the ultimate carb spacer is a tunnel ram. When magazines do a complete flog of many different intakes on one engine, they always seem surprised that the tunnel ram is the best and does not have to give up anything on the lower RPM. A tunnel ram intake has a smooth entry into the runner and no turns in the runner, all good for air flow.
Fuel comes out of suspension when the air makes a turn and the heavier fuel can't make the turn and impacts on the far wall. So if the fuel is properly atomized to begin with...
I think the ultimate carb spacer is a tunnel ram. When magazines do a complete flog of many different intakes on one engine, they always seem surprised that the tunnel ram is the best and does not have to give up anything on the lower RPM. A tunnel ram intake has a smooth entry into the runner and no turns in the runner, all good for air flow.
Fuel comes out of suspension when the air makes a turn and the heavier fuel can't make the turn and impacts on the far wall. So if the fuel is properly atomized to begin with...
01-27-2003, 01:33 PM
#16
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I agree
I agree with Tomcat!
A dual four barrel tunnel ram is the best single plane intake manifold. It has none of the compromises of a single four barrel/single plane manifold. Eight carburetor barrels feeding directly into eight intake ports, with the barrels sitting on top of the ports (sending a straight shot of air fuel mixture to the ports) is a manifold that makes maximum horsepower.
They are perfectly suited for a marine engine because they do not obstruct the forward view like they do on an automobile engine.
The amount of low speed power that a tunnel ram is capable of producing is directly related to the plenum volume which can be increased or reduced very easily but adding a spacer or an internal stuffing block.
A single four barrel/single plane intake manifold is inferior to a tunnel ram because of the mixture distribution inferiority and the hard 90 degree turn the air/fuel mixture makes when it leaves the carburetor barrels.
Dennis Moore
A dual four barrel tunnel ram is the best single plane intake manifold. It has none of the compromises of a single four barrel/single plane manifold. Eight carburetor barrels feeding directly into eight intake ports, with the barrels sitting on top of the ports (sending a straight shot of air fuel mixture to the ports) is a manifold that makes maximum horsepower.
They are perfectly suited for a marine engine because they do not obstruct the forward view like they do on an automobile engine.
The amount of low speed power that a tunnel ram is capable of producing is directly related to the plenum volume which can be increased or reduced very easily but adding a spacer or an internal stuffing block.
A single four barrel/single plane intake manifold is inferior to a tunnel ram because of the mixture distribution inferiority and the hard 90 degree turn the air/fuel mixture makes when it leaves the carburetor barrels.
Dennis Moore
02-02-2003, 10:49 PM
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Hey Mike
Hi Mike,
I have the CMI headers on my 454 Magnum, and they came with the boat. I belong to a performance boat club, and they are know to be the best. I can't say before and after info, but people are blown away that I turn a 28" 4 blade & get 82 on GPS on a stock 454. The only other mods, nose cone, and raised drive, I raised the drive 3", and that gained 10 MPH, and it kick's a huge rooster tail!! (ya ya, I know I trim to much, just having fun!!)
made the boat feel mucher ligher and way more fun to drive, feels like a completly different boat.
So depends on how your drive is set up, you may want to look at IMCO short drive
I have the CMI headers on my 454 Magnum, and they came with the boat. I belong to a performance boat club, and they are know to be the best. I can't say before and after info, but people are blown away that I turn a 28" 4 blade & get 82 on GPS on a stock 454. The only other mods, nose cone, and raised drive, I raised the drive 3", and that gained 10 MPH, and it kick's a huge rooster tail!! (ya ya, I know I trim to much, just having fun!!)
made the boat feel mucher ligher and way more fun to drive, feels like a completly different boat.
So depends on how your drive is set up, you may want to look at IMCO short drive
Originally posted by Fever Mike
This is interesting. I have a HP500 carb that is stock. Has anyone added a spacer or done any other mods to the HP500 other than going inside the motor?
I have been thinking of the following:
*Carb Spacer
*Re-jetting
*Remove water pump for cross-over system
*Remove Exhaust Y switchable Exhaust system (Captain's Call)
*Remove GIL for CMI Exhaust
*Better air filter such as a K&N
Will any of the above mods help or am I wasting my hard earned money?
Thanks, Mike
This is interesting. I have a HP500 carb that is stock. Has anyone added a spacer or done any other mods to the HP500 other than going inside the motor?
I have been thinking of the following:
*Carb Spacer
*Re-jetting
*Remove water pump for cross-over system
*Remove Exhaust Y switchable Exhaust system (Captain's Call)
*Remove GIL for CMI Exhaust
*Better air filter such as a K&N
Will any of the above mods help or am I wasting my hard earned money?
Thanks, Mike
SUPER SUCKER IS WHAT THEY CALL PURCHASERS
02-03-2003, 01:29 PM
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Re: Raised Drive
Hey Mike,
Measure the hieght of you prop shaft at zero angle, and email IMCO with that spec. And see what they say, let me know as well.
Your fountain, depends on the year, may have the drive already raised. Older boats tend to be set up with lower drive heights. Because a 3 blade prop will NOT work on a boat with any weight. My old Hydrostream would jump out of the water with a 3 blade chopper, but I put in on the Eliminator, and it took forever to get on plane, and you could not turn, just would cavitate. The Bravo 4 blade or Hydromotive or ???? Is a must for a rased drive. Many race boats run a cleaver, but not a gfood choice for an all around prop.
Measure the hieght of you prop shaft at zero angle, and email IMCO with that spec. And see what they say, let me know as well.
Your fountain, depends on the year, may have the drive already raised. Older boats tend to be set up with lower drive heights. Because a 3 blade prop will NOT work on a boat with any weight. My old Hydrostream would jump out of the water with a 3 blade chopper, but I put in on the Eliminator, and it took forever to get on plane, and you could not turn, just would cavitate. The Bravo 4 blade or Hydromotive or ???? Is a must for a rased drive. Many race boats run a cleaver, but not a gfood choice for an all around prop.
Originally posted by Fever Mike
2Slow, I plan on trying a shorty drive very soon actually. I am just trying to find the time so I can do the swap. I wonder if the shorty will make a differance on my 29 Fountain?
Mike
2Slow, I plan on trying a shorty drive very soon actually. I am just trying to find the time so I can do the swap. I wonder if the shorty will make a differance on my 29 Fountain?
Mike
02-03-2003, 08:39 PM
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Originally posted by Fever Mike
My 29 Fountain is a 2000 model. I believe Fountain raised the drive height 1" in late 2001 and put Bravo 1 props on there boats. Fountain claims the Bravo 1 get's on plane better and the raised drive height get's the speed back from the slower Bravo 1 prop.
Fountain was always pushing the Hydromotive prop as being the absolute fastest prop and switched all of the sudden to the Bravo 1. Hummmm...I really wonder!
Mike
My 29 Fountain is a 2000 model. I believe Fountain raised the drive height 1" in late 2001 and put Bravo 1 props on there boats. Fountain claims the Bravo 1 get's on plane better and the raised drive height get's the speed back from the slower Bravo 1 prop.
Fountain was always pushing the Hydromotive prop as being the absolute fastest prop and switched all of the sudden to the Bravo 1. Hummmm...I really wonder!
Mike
