fuel tank removal
#11
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Don't count on the acetone working if it's the expanding type foam you are using it on. It didn't work on mine.
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Straight bottoms and flat decks
Straight bottoms and flat decks
#12
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To get out a 23" deep "V" bottomed tank in a compartment with only 1" of foamed space on the sides was a real challange.
I used and electric drill with old augar bits of the "brace and bit" type to route out the foam. Cut off the bit tapered square ends and used two 12" long 1/4" drill extension shafts. To suck out the debris used vacuum cleaner with a klugged narrow, anteater wand.
After clearing foam out of the sides and ends, laid lenght of 2" angle iron along one top side of tank and pryed against it to rock tank free
That was the easy part. The tank was 1" wider than the hatch opening and rotating, if possible, would only have made it wider. Found a solution to remove the tank intack that avoided having to cut up the deck.
I used and electric drill with old augar bits of the "brace and bit" type to route out the foam. Cut off the bit tapered square ends and used two 12" long 1/4" drill extension shafts. To suck out the debris used vacuum cleaner with a klugged narrow, anteater wand.
After clearing foam out of the sides and ends, laid lenght of 2" angle iron along one top side of tank and pryed against it to rock tank free
That was the easy part. The tank was 1" wider than the hatch opening and rotating, if possible, would only have made it wider. Found a solution to remove the tank intack that avoided having to cut up the deck.
Last edited by doug hess; 02-06-2003 at 04:22 PM.
#14
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Originally posted by puder
be carefull I know if you melt styrofoam in diesel you can make a napalm-like substance (so i've heard)
be carefull I know if you melt styrofoam in diesel you can make a napalm-like substance (so i've heard)
Good luck with the tanks and foam, as mmwalters said, be sure to have a fire extinguisher close by. if the stuff is flamable, it probably isnt good for the skin or eyes either.
Last edited by HyperBaja; 02-06-2003 at 04:14 PM.
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I used a hand saw (cross cut wood type) to run down the sides of my tank. That loosened the side but couldn't get the bottom to free up, had to use a fork lift and chain on lifting rings (I was lucky they where there) to pop them out., almost lifted the boat off the trailer but they did come out. I did not foam new tanks in. Old tanks did not leak but severly pitted and corroded in spots that foam had small pockets of water. I don't want to ever go through that again. Find an alternative method of holding tanks if you can.
#16
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The foam is polyurethane, and as far as I know there is nothing that will dissolve it. There is a solvent that is used to flush out foam packaging machines, but it barely softens the stuff. Before learning this I tried acetone, meth chloride and just baout anything else I could think of. The HP water sounds pretty good, but if I remember correctly we tried that and my 11 HP machine would not touch it. I think it would work, but more pressure would be needed.
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Marc
www.mercruiserparts.com
www.go-fast.com
www.bammarine.com
www.cyborgtransmissions.com
It's not alive -www.BoatStuffExpress.com - temporarily retired
#17
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The typical tank installation where it is surrounded by 100 percent foam is a invitation to accelerated problems. It leaves no way for dampness to be vented. After seeing the pitting caused of lack of ventilation, when reinstalling the tank I used100% foam only on the bottom. On the sides only foamed the corner areas from bottom to top. On the midpoints of the sides and ends made vertical foam pads. That gave good support but left plenty of air space to ventilate moisture .
I had removed my tank for inspecting and testing. Because it was still useable sandblasted it with a $20 Chinese kit. Where needed filled spots with industrial epoxy then 2 coats of industrial grade ply mastic expoxy mud like paint.
I had removed my tank for inspecting and testing. Because it was still useable sandblasted it with a $20 Chinese kit. Where needed filled spots with industrial epoxy then 2 coats of industrial grade ply mastic expoxy mud like paint.